The Black Pearl LSH Spec Hydro 2019

[Shooter]

Does that cooling can have spiral grooves inside? Like this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tpp1BfCT3as

[longballlumber]

What cooling can is that??

haha You know what that is mister. That suckers worth more than the whole build. Had a hell of a time getting the O rings to seat properly. Ended up hitting the groove with a dremel and a sanding paddle.

Seems like there is some sort of patent infringement or Licensing violation going on... LOL

Your O-rings were the wrong size then.... assuming there wasn't any shrinkage with a change in the material/printer. All of the cans off my printer install just fine with the O-rings I designed for.

[T.S.Davis]

It was the quality of the surface inside. Wasn't a size issue. The surface on mine turned out rough. Little bit of slop. Once I got that out of there it was fine.

It's a very trick design Mike. You out did yourself. Hope they work as well as we think.

[Shooter]

Stuffing tube is glassed in. Mike showed me how to do this. Doesn't look like much, but it literally has become part of the boat. I only used about four drops of West Systems and 15 or so pcs of very lightweight cloth layered in various directions. Very strong bond.

[longballlumber]

Stuffing tube is glassed in. Mike showed me how to do this. Doesn't look like much, but it literally has become part of the boat. I only used about four drops of West Systems and 15 or so pcs of very lightweight cloth layered in various directions. Very strong bond.

Nice job Pete! As I have told you before, your a much better builder than I am. I never understood why a huge circular or rectangular dam filled with really brittle epoxy was the preferred choice!

[longballlumber]

Stuffing tube is glassed in. Mike showed me how to do this. Doesn't look like much, but it literally has become part of the boat. I only used about four drops of West Systems and 15 or so pcs of very lightweight cloth layered in various directions. Very strong bond.

You need to try a “sleeve” for the stuffing tube. It’s a great system.

[Shooter]

Nice job Pete! As I have told you before, your a much better builder than I am. I never understood why a huge circular or rectangular dam filled with really brittle epoxy was the preferred choice!

Thanks. Not sure I would go that far, but my boats definitely seem to last! I'm not sure why people are still using the old method of the epoxy blob. Maybe you should make a build tip thread!?! Here's a nice photo to use... I doubt anyone would go back to the old way if they knew about this method.

[Shooter]

Well, all that work over the winter working on the geometry paid off. The UL-1 hatch and nose fit like a glove. Very nice, tight fit. Looking forward to getting some paint on this and seeing what she does!

If it runs OK, I'll start offering kits. It's going to be a lot different this time around. Probably going to sell frames for only around $60 since there will be no hatch (use the UL-1) or skins (full scale print outs provided to trace and cut).

[InspGadgt]

Looks nice!...Get canopies and hatch covers while you can though. I'm already having issues getting some parts for my UL-1 now that it has been discontinued. Tower seems to have a bunch in stock for now.

[T.S.Davis]

You need to try a “sleeve” for the stuffing tube. It’s a great system.

I tried that in Ty's Q. The stuffing tube moved in the sleeve and bent all to heck. I didn't know you were supposed to tack that thing with solder.

[ray schrauwen]

I tried that in Ty's Q. The stuffing tube moved in the sleeve and bent all to heck. I didn't know you were supposed to tack that thing with solder.

I use retaining compound like Loctite 638. I've actually used the red stuff we got as grab bags at Michigan races. No need to solder, it would melt the sleeve glue joint.

[Shooter]

Yep, understand the sleeve method. Probably the best way to go. It provides plenty of advantages including not only adjustment, but replacement of the stuffing tube at any time. Since I set up all my boats to run with prop center at bottom of spons and never change it, I just glass the whole thing in.

I know I'm going to get murdered on this forum for the statement above, but I try to rely on hull design to make corrections rather than prop thrust angles and heights. Example: If she's blowing off, I hate wasting thrust by aiming the prop down into the water. I'd rather find a way to bleed off air. Vice versa, if she's glued to the water, I'd rather find a way to pack in more air. If the strut height is wrong, then the AOA on the sponsons needs to be adjusted.

[T.S.Davis]

Pete, all of my hydros start with the bottom of the strut level with the sponson depth. Not the center of the prop. Not say'n I'm right. Just how I do it.

[Shooter]

Interesting...so that makes my strut about 3/16" deeper than yours. Theoretically, if the props ride at the same height (probably very prop dependent based on prop lift???), then your sponson AOA would be higher.

[Shooter]

Some good news!! Terry was able to test the new spec hull over the weekend. Below are a couple videos. These are literally the first two runs EVER...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tx_1fFGERc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dwQ9ScqPd2U

Overall, I think the design is very promising. Runs and handles quite well, especially considering it hasn’t even been trimmed out! I will start cutting kits next week. With everyone’s input, mods, and tweaks, I think we can make this boat a real winner! BTW, I was also able to see Ty’s full P-Sport running. That thing amazes me every time I see it.