The Black Pearl LSH Spec Hydro 2019

[T.S.Davis]

Just get the Proboat 2000 (DYNM3831) and move on. They're solid enough and will turn 45mm props on most boats. Good starting point that is.

[InspGadgt]

I plan to...but I was hoping to find a less expensive alternative. Initially I was going through AQ2030 motors faster than I liked so was looking for something I could burn up without hurting the pocket book too much.

[Shooter]

I've been running the AQ2030's on my LSH since the first UL-1 with relatively no problems and my boat is no slouch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdvK4ohe-Yc

Couple things I've found that help:

1. As much coolant flow as possible.
2. Water outlet on can should be on the TOP, otherwise you create a huge air bubble hotspot.
3. Water outlet at the highest point (back of the motor).
4. Motor radially mounted such that wires are at the bottom of can (heat rises, keep it away from them).
5. Heat soak fins like the ones on my post a few above. These work great for the end of the race.

[785boats]

That's my problem. I've been racing against Chris Emmard out here running the dam 1500s and mine blew up last race and I can't find another one. I'm running a PT stealth and now I'm stuck without any idea on what to put in it.

These guys seem to still have some of the original Proboat 1500's.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/223479932325?ul_noapp=true

[TRUCKPULL]

I've been running the AQ2030's on my LSH since the first UL-1 with relatively no problems and my boat is no slouch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdvK4ohe-Yc

Couple things I've found that help:

1. As much coolant flow as possible.
2. Water outlet on can should be on the TOP, otherwise you create a huge air bubble hotspot.
3. Water outlet at the highest point (back of the motor).
4. Motor radially mounted such that wires are at the bottom of can (heat rises, keep it away from them).
5. Heat soak fins like the ones on my post a few above. These work great for the end of the race.

Pete
Where do you find those fins?

Larry

[InspGadgt]

I've been running the AQ2030's on my LSH since the first UL-1 with relatively no problems and my boat is no slouch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdvK4ohe-Yc

Couple things I've found that help:

1. As much coolant flow as possible.
2. Water outlet on can should be on the TOP, otherwise you create a huge air bubble hotspot.
3. Water outlet at the highest point (back of the motor).
4. Motor radially mounted such that wires are at the bottom of can (heat rises, keep it away from them).
5. Heat soak fins like the ones on my post a few above. These work great for the end of the race.

Well that explains things then...When I swapped my ESC out for one that has an on/off switch I changed the way my water jacket was set up. First I figured I didn't want the inlet and outlet to be in-line with each other or else water would just flow right out without distributing around the can. So I placed them 90 degrees from each other...which had the side effect of having my outlet at the top rear of the motor. Since then I haven't burnt up a motor...that could be why. Another thing we tried on a friend's boat was to mostly block off between the inlet and the outlet to force the water to flow around the can...that seems to have worked as well though I would prefer something more along the lines of a spiral channel...but sealing that would be near impossible. I'm considering designing and 3d printing my own water jacket out of TPU. The whole thing would be a seal and I could print in the spiral channels. It would be similar to the old water cooling pipes that wound around the can but the water would still make direct contact with the can.

Question: Do you notice a difference in flow with the 90 degree inlet/outlets? I was wanting to put some on mine but a local mentioned it might adversely affect the water flow in and out of the jacket.

[bhorowitz]

Yeah, what Larry said. Where does that finned end cap come from? That's very cool. I think I made a pun.
Bob

[InspGadgt]

Still no word on that end bell heat sink?

[bozo586]

finned end cap was home made by pete (shooter)! i don't think they are available.

[rayzerdesigns]

Plus he can drive.. but the 1500s are still best motor out.. though that will change now that not available.. but I have been running mine now for 4 years

That's my problem. I've been racing against Chris Emmard out here running the dam 1500s and mine blew up last race and I can't find another one. I'm running a PT stealth and now I'm stuck without any idea on what to put in it.

[jaike5]

Post #139 gives a link to the pb1500kv

[Namba328]

Post #139 gives a link to the pb1500kv

Used to lol they sold out

[InspGadgt]

finned end cap was home made by pete (shooter)! i don't think they are available.

Well that does us no good to mention how much it helps when it isn't available to the public...lol

[785boats]

Used to lol they sold out

When I posted the link he still had some.
He sold two the next day, & the last one the day after.
I was hoping that you managed to score one.

Unlucky.

Aren't they replaced by the Dynamite 1500kv motors?
They are the motors that we use at our club here in Australia, now that the original Proboat motors are discontinued.

These ones.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamit...nm3835/p234183

Not sure if they are as sturdy as the originals but mine are still going strong.

[Namba328]

When I posted the link he still had some.
He sold two the next day, & the last one the day after.
I was hoping that you managed to score one.

Unlucky.

Aren't they replaced by the Dynamite 1500kv motors?
They are the motors that we use at our club here in Australia, now that the original Proboat motors are discontinued.

These ones.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynamit...nm3835/p234183

Not sure if they are as sturdy as the originals but mine are still going strong.

The dynamite ones are better and stronger. But I just realized I have a older one in my box. I may have to try it one of these days.