ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

[sammyha]

[EDITED] As per Raydee's tip in post #71, this short piece of 1/4" tubing stays in the boat.

I'll pre-bend 7/32" tubing to 12 degrees. It will slide into the 1/4" tubing. I will be running a 3/16" flex cable without a teflon liner. This tip was from Greg Schweers(7/32"tubing, NOT 1/4"!).

Greg also sent me pictures of the 1/4" tubing loctited in the strut shown in the sketch below in post #154.

So, I can change out a damaged stuffing tube without cutting everything out of the boat.

Great stuff guys!


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[Stillwet]

Thanks Stillwet... It got to be a bit too much building the motor mount, but I like be able to oil my motors. I'm pretty happy with it in the end.

I'm not sure what you mean about using CA on the CF edges so it doesn't fray. Before applying it, or after? That's what the tape was doing before applying the CF. If you mean afterwards, it's all epoxied in now.

Asking to learn...



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i'm sorry i thought maybe the picture that i quoted you would have seen what i tried to convey.
The Carbon fiber edges of your motor and stuffing tube mount should be super glued, when i build any raw edge CF Plate(s) you put just enough super glue (CA) at the highest point (not too much just enough that it slowly flows downward, the glue should flow with out going over the sides (somehow it just grips that raw edge and follows its path) but too much and it will flow over.
i've built enough on road cars and buggies that it became simpler each time, this is probably the only time i Never use CA accelerator on my super glued pieces, since the accelerator makes it rough looking (crystallizes it instantaneously) thus leaving the edges looking undesirable.
and yes your welcome, your build is wanting me to build an OR, but i'll have to wait till after the holidays, i've been re-roofing my addition and building my dad's awning and finishing a boat build here on OSE and setting up to do my Tamiya 1/14 Semi-Truck Grand Hauler. you seem to be building at a steady pace and it looks professional
Remember do not get any on you

[sammyha]

Here's a sketch detailing the stuffing tube sizes with a Speedmaster strut.

I stated in the beginning, this build thread will be from a boating newcomer's perspective.

I struggled a bit with this, so I'm documenting this "strut system" if you will...



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[sammyha]

This caused some of my confusion, the tubing sizes without teflon liner listed on OSE's website.

They list 1/4" brass tubing for a .187 flex shaft without teflon liner. This tubing would fit in the Speedmaster strut.

Greg told me that's too loose for the flex shaft. He's right, the .187 flex shaft fits beautifully in the 7/32" brass tubing.

So this system is the solution. It doesn't seem as complicated in hindsight, so hopefully this will help others...

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[sammyha]

With all that said, the win here is this stuffing tube system those guys shared with me...

If you're doing this for your first time, study this a bit. There's some real advantages to it.

1) I fussed a bit with the moter angle for a reason.

2) I got good alignment of motor shaft, stuffing tube mount, the short piece of 1/4" tubing that stays in the boat, and the hole thru the hull.

3) Then, after mounting the strut, I can simply pre-bend the 7/32" tubing to 12 degrees and trim the lengths of each end to the motor and the strut!

4) And, Greg said a little silicone will hold it in there. It's completely captured...

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[sammyha]

This is really working out well. To be honest, this part of the build has been a bit of a concern for me.

Here I'm working the bend and eyeballing the strut in position. That's a one inch long piece of 1/4" tubing, only pushed a 1/2" into the strut.

I want the stuffing tube relaxed in the strut and the bend made so it passes straight thru...


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[sammyha]

This shot shows how centered the stuffing tube is in the strut bore.

I massaged the bend by hand. The flex shaft spins freely in the tube.

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[sammyha]

No kidding, this is how close the angle came out. I'm checking this after bending it.

For sure setting it up this way, I could bend a tube to 12 degrees and that would work.

But, by bending it and checking it in the boat, I only have to cut off the end going into the strut, since I kept lining the stuffing tube up flush to the end of the 1/4" tubing inside the boat...

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[sammyha]

Taking my time making a neat hole makes for a nice epoxy job...

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[sammyha]

It feels good to have this part of the build done. The heart of the rigger, the power, coming out of the hull...

Time for some fun stuff, bolting hardware on the transom!

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[sammyha]

Maybe this is too much redundancy but I'll risk it for the value of these pictures...

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[sammyha]

The business end...

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[sammyha]

Here's my flex shaft length with my motor location...

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[sammyha]

Soldering the flex shaft after cutting to length.

The first method I practiced on the scrap piece on the right. Dipping in flux, heating to a dull red glow, wire brushing clean, repeat. I did that at least ten times before it would take solder.

It took solder well, but I didn't like heating it that many times.

So I used the crucible method on my flex shaft. This turned out fine, but I think the solder on the scrap piece took better. There's a video on YouTube, just search "solder rc boat flex cable" for how to do this.

Any thoughts on a flex cable taking heat?


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[sammyha]

This all comes back off. I shortened the Speedmaster rudder. Fitting is complete on the transom hardware...


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