ML Boatworks RSX380 Outrigger! My first FE wood kit build...

[properchopper]

Since we're sharing ideas for tight clearance motor mounts & the like, here's something I've been doing for years (and won me the American Psychiatric Associations "Duh-Aha" Award/Necessity is the Mother of Invention/ Frank Zappa -

But first the backstory : Being a serious "Ltd" Class competitor, several seasons back I experienced the decline in longevity of the later manufactured NAMBA approved "spec" motors which started lasting as long as a burrito outgassing in a windstorm and hence I needed to be able to quickchange kerfuffled motors between heats minus the frustration of looking for that pesky 3mm hex and first engaging , then unscrewing the front mounting hex's 1/331 turns at a time. This is what I came up with (and how I do ALL my motors now) and maybe this could add to your your in/out mount design :

First - get some 3mm capscrews, de-capitate them, red Loctite them into the front endbell to make studs
quickchange stuff002.JPG

Use small box-end to either initially break loose loose or fully tighten
quickchange stuff003.JPG

Make (or find online) a flexible socket drive ( Old hex handle, .150 flexshaft, 7/32 socket)

quickchange flex001.JPG

Go for it

quickchange stuff006.JPG

[sammyha]

Oh wow... Genius!

Who would have thought? Not me on that one...

What's the best angle to mount the motor/ stuffing box?

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[properchopper]

Best to have someone answer who has built this before - I haven't. Gradual bends and remember too much straight distance on stuffing tube can often induce harmonics.

[sammyha]

Ok. Thanks for that info, on harmonics

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[sammyha]

Someday I won't wonder... what's in this rigger?

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[sammyha]

I uploaded a video on my progress building the sponsons. The sponsons to me are the most challenging part of this build.

This is mostly for anyone considering a wood kit but has never built one. I encourage you to try it. It has been daunting, but very satisfying to take this on. Here's the link...

https://youtu.be/K-M0tPlXPfI

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[Raydee]

Building wood boats is not for everyone. I prefer to have someone build them for me but lately its been tough so I may end up doing it myself over the winter. It will probably take me the whole winter to build this rigger.

[sammyha]

Building wood boats is not for everyone. I prefer to have someone build them for me but lately its been tough so I may end up doing it myself over the winter. It will probably take me the whole winter to build this rigger.

It certainly is time consuming. I've found it to be rather enjoyable without a time restriction. But definitely make it a winter project. I've been building the sponsons for more than a week now.

This to me is a part of the build that will be good to have done. There's some fun stuff ahead...

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[sammyha]

Here's doing whatever it takes again...

The bottom pieces on the back teardrop section are on. Then I epoxied the side pieces up to where the curve started.

After that set, I epoxied it around the bend. The weight will stay on thru the curing of the epoxy.

Not a part of the build to rush...

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[sammyha]

The sponson sheeting overlaps, and is put on in a specific order. Each piece overhangs the frame and has to be trimmed.

Here I'm trimming the side sheeting flush to the frames. Next is the rear ride pads. I have one epoxied on and taped.

This is work... [emoji28]

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[sammyha]

[Quote] "I already made some changes to the sponsons based on a friend in the knows recommendations. Added dihedral to the outside sponson, which I had at zero (not sure what I was thinking, every other boat I have designed has dihedral on the outside..guess I thought riggers didnt need it!) and changed the AoA on the turn fin side sponson. Upped it a half a degree over the outside sponson. This will help keep the turn fin from sucking down on the inside sponson due to its extra drag." [Quote]

Mike Luszcz


If Mike has features like this in his design, I want them in my build. I'm not changing anything, I want to experience this rigger as he designed it.

I figure the laser cutting to be very accurate. But I noticed the 3/16" square basswood strips varied in size slightly, and if they were tight going in the slots, I simply turned them 90 degrees.

This means they will slightly protrude above the slots, of course.

So as I'm sheeting the sponsons I'm shaving everything down to the laser cut surfaces.

Sounds a bit over the top, but these are small things that make a big difference to me...

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[sammyha]

And you can see the dihedral Mike talks about on the left sponson in these shots. The right sponson is flat...

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[sammyha]

Again, weighted down and curing overnight. They are coming out very flat. Bottom and side sheeting is finally done. I'm very happy with the sponsons at this point...

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[sammyha]

Something I figured out building airplanes...

I don't sand glued assemblies made with multiple materials. As in plywood, basswood strips and epoxy joined together.

Rather, I shave them down carefully with an exacto knife. Then a light sanding to finish up.

Ever notice how uneven the joints get from sanding due to the differing hardness of the materials?

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[sammyha]

The following is quoted with permission from Mike Luszcz.

It's from his thread on his first rigger design. He said sizing is the main difference in the kits(he has a RSX240 also), and tub width adjustments for each size.

Here's the link...

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=54937

I'm posting this to consolidate his comments on his rigger designs. So it will take less time to read thru his thread and decide to purchase one of Mike's fine wood kits.

It's for those who are over the top(like me) on riggers, and want to immerse themselves in rigger design...



I've added comments in parenthesis to give some context to his explanations...


(In the beginning of the RSX310 thread, Mike starts sharing some of his design features. )

Yes, the top has a lot of curvature, I wanted this for looks...To combat that, the bottom has the quarter round included, just like my sport hydros...which has been extremely effective in controlling the hulls downforce. Right now, this will be a 31" design, but if it works like I hope, a 38" and probably 44" will follow...we just need to see how this goes!

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