Old member....new build....scale build...

[ScarabChris]

Also....when you get these prop shaft extenders and get them sized up and you know where you want them. Clean the threads on the outdrive shaft and the threads inside the extender of oil and use some red Loc-Tite when you screw on the extender. This will make it almost permanent. Keep in mind if you run counter rotating props the one that spins the opposite of the normal rotation will want to spin off. This is also why you want to use a drive dog and have the set screw hit the original prop shaft. This way the torque from the prop isn't on the new shaft extender, it will be on the original shaft. The new extender basically is there to center the prop and hold it on.

[ScarabChris]

Doing some searching...you may be able to use something like this..

http://www.gravesrc.com/octoc4mm2187-octura-brass-prop-adapter.html

http://www.hobbyexpress.com/prop_adapter_for_4mm_shaft_18585_prd1.htm

[ScarabChris]

yes sir drop me a pm i'm here

Dang man nice website!!

[Kmot]

Thanks bro! :)

[ScarabChris]

Assembly begins....

[CraigP]

Nice! This is going to scream!

[ScarabChris]

I guess I should post what motors and ESC's I'm using.

[CraigP]

That’s my slow 8s motor for my DF Vortex 34! Great motor, good torque! You running 6s?

[ScarabChris]

I think I'm going to try running one 22.2 volt 6s battery. I'm not looking for major speed, this is a scale build so if the boat hits 25-30 actual MPH I'll be happy.

Some progress today. The drives are connected to the motors but the alignment needs adjustment, the port side is a little tight when I try to spin the motor by turning the prop. The stbd side is smooth.

[ScarabChris]

Yeah having the motors mounted they way Graupner intended like in the above picture won't work.

1) The set screw to secure the motor to the coupler is next to impossible to get to and absolutely impossible to get tight enough.
2) The rough fiberglass in the transom of this boat makes it impossible to get a perfect motor shaft alignment and with the motor that close it has to be perfect.

I'm going to use these stainless steel U-joints I got for some other project. Just need to bore out the drive coupler a little to accept the U-joint shaft. The U-joint side is the correct size for the motor shaft. I'll have to build some motor mounts so I can mount the motors a couple inches forward of the transom. This will make it easy to access set screws and keep an eye on leaks as well as relax the alignment specs.

[Beaux]

Man you got all kinds of little goodies, looks great. Love the name.

[ScarabChris]

I ordered a couple of these from OSE. I will bolt them together then bolt them to the stringers. I like that these have top screws to remove the motor. My hands aren't small enough to reach around the front of the motor.

[ScarabChris]

Man you got all kinds of little goodies, looks great. Love the name.

Yeah back in 2010-2011 when I was heavy into the hobby I bought lots of stuff. I spent money on this stuff like a drunken sailor. When I wanted to fabricate or modify something I often bought multiple version of the part and multiple quantities in case I messed it up I had spares. I have a bunch of various of shafts, U-joints, nuts, bolts, cooling supplies, wire, electrical stuff, various hardware, etc in my war chest.

In fact I have a pair of massive rudders brand new I need to put on the classified page. I bought them as an option for my Fountain project and never used them.

[Beaux]

I like that quick change motor mount. My next boat will have one. Like my wife says I've got big monkey fingers.

[ScarabChris]

Yeah....got the outdrive input shaft couplers bored out to take these beefy stainless steel U-joints. Tough to get them perfectly centered without a lathe.