Need my head examined...

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  • Navherc130
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2013
    • 151

    #1

    Need my head examined...

    So I bought this GP 400 kit from mitchesx (thanks). Think I got a fair deal considering he did not have to ship it, it was mostly built and it came with free hardware!!! Just finished my Atlas and have not even finished testing it yet. Boy this thing feels heavy and it is only this far along. How in the world does a TP 4060 push this thing on 6s? I have a TP 4060 1650kv I am going to eventually pull out of my big mono when the time comes to seatrial it. Neu is expensive, but I presume I'll save up to eventually perhaps get one. I have a 40mm long mount already laying around from a project that never took off and an areomarine collet and insert for a 5mm shaft motor. Actually trying to pinch pennies where I can (wait a minute...this is rc boating)...I know, what was I thinking. How do you all have this set up? Anyone using big 56mm motor in these things?
    IMG_20170902_204616.jpgIMG_20170902_205353.jpgIMG_20170902_205419.jpg
    Criticism? Comments? Political statements?
  • Fluid
    Fast and Furious
    • Apr 2007
    • 7990

    #2
    We have had plenty of these in our club, most used a Neu 1527/1Y and were great performers on the oval. This is a well-designed boat and a proven winner. Stop worrying and make certain you build it as the instructions state. Do not run a 56mm motor!


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    • Peter A
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Sep 2012
      • 1498

      #3
      I'm running a TP 4060 1620kv motor in my Q hydro. It is an 8255 executone hull (f/g) which is 10% smaller than 1/8 scale. Hull length is 40" width 24". It runs 6s 1P with a T-180 v2 esc and clocks 100kph on a P747 prop. It is set up for oval racing and only runs 1P to suit our class rules here in NZ. I can still beat gassers and a twin 90 nitro rigger if I drive well at club days. Motor pulls approx 120 amps average which equates to around 3.5 hp. Plenty considering the hull was designed as a sport 45 setup.

      20160105_173528.jpg
      NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
      2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
      BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

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      • Navherc130
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2013
        • 151

        #4
        Thanks Peter. Nice rig BTW.

        Comment

        • Navherc130
          Senior Member
          • Sep 2013
          • 151

          #5
          If I can finish the boat in a timely manner and wanted to run it at a combined gas/nitro but allows electric event, I presume the Sport 40 class includes a Q hydro per Q rules? Any motor, 25volt limit, and 10000mah as stated in Namba rulebook? Closest lake to me is in Bristol, PA.

          Comment

          • 785boats
            Wet Track Racing
            • Nov 2008
            • 3169

            #6
            Unfortunately I've sold my GP400 now, but she served me well over the years. She won me a few trophies.
            The last motor I ran in it was a TP 4070 1440kv motor. The new owner still has it in the boat too. ESC was a Seaking 180A & prop was a Prather s240.
            Other motors I tried were a Neu 1527/1y 1250kv, TP4060 1350kv, & TP 4060 1600kv.
            All worked well, but the last setup seemed the best for our clubs oval course.

            The Neu 1527/1y would allow you to run a larger more efficient prop, as it is a more efficient motor than the TP series.
            See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
            http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
            http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

            Comment

            • CraigP
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • May 2017
              • 1464

              #7
              Can't post pics on PM, or at least I haven't figured it out...

              Here's the layout on my hydro. The four, 2s batts are up front and go out sideways, across the hull. There is an aluminum plate expoxied to the bottom with Velcro to hold the batteries. This setup yielded very good weight balance. Maybe this will give you some ideas.
              Attached Files

              Comment

              • Navherc130
                Senior Member
                • Sep 2013
                • 151

                #8
                Not so easy with a wood boat with stringers and ribs. Hate to compromise strength and floatation! Looks easy with a hollow hull.

                Comment

                • CraigP
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • May 2017
                  • 1464

                  #9
                  Nope, not easy at all! I would recommend building intercompartments out of thin aluminum, bending it to the size needed to house the batteries (3-wall). Then cut the fames and re-tie then to the sides of the compartment using fiberglass/resin bridges. If all the weight runs down the center of the hull, it will sponson walk badly. Yes, the hull I used made it simpler to get the weight distributed correctly, it's the main reason I selected it, in spite all the other issues with the hull. But those issues were correctable.

                  It's just a suggestion, just do it the way you feel most comfortable doing!

                  Comment

                  • Navherc130
                    Senior Member
                    • Sep 2013
                    • 151

                    #10
                    Hey 785boats, you ran a 100mm motor from TP (4070 series) at 1440kv? On a 180esc? Isn't that motor rated at around 220amps? Did use use a batt pack for the ESC so it could handle more juice? I saw that was no longer made. Now there is 1520 and 1400 kv in that size. I have a 4060 TP (92mm?) at 1650kv, but I am pretty sure a T180 may not be able to handle it with extra weight of 2x6s packs.

                    Comment

                    • 785boats
                      Wet Track Racing
                      • Nov 2008
                      • 3169

                      #11
                      The motor may be rated at that, but it will draw more if the prop demands it. But the Prather s240 keeps the draw within the limits of the Seaking 180. Plus the hull was flying free & easy too.
                      We are not allowed to race with parallel packs here in Australia, so the whole 5 lap race, plus a mill lap & wind down lap, must be done on one 6s pack weighing less than 950 grams. That's why we can't run large aggressive props here.
                      I have to add weight into most of my hydros to get the hulls to balance properly.
                      I always use the internal bec in all my ESC's, if they have one.
                      I run a TP 1650kv motor in my 6s mono with a Seaking 180 ESC. But the prop is only a 4214/3 blade, so that the pack will last the race. Everything runs just warm. But you guys would run a larger prop I'm sure, so a larger ESC might be required.
                      See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
                      http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
                      http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

                      Comment

                      • Navherc130
                        Senior Member
                        • Sep 2013
                        • 151

                        #12
                        Paint scheme

                        Well, trying to figure a paint scheme and settled on an Oboy Oberto theme. In progress.
                        IMG_20170930_130702.jpg
                        IMG_20171005_110024.jpg

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