ML Boatworks GP310 build

[Luck as a Constant]

Yup, that's a Block O' Aluminum all right! It looks too thin, lol!

Haha yeah probably overkill, but glueing that massive slice on there was rather satisfying. I really don't want to have any issues, because once the deck is on, that's it. I figure having more meatbthere, equals more thread, and less chance of stripping.

[CraigP]

Yeah, I always worry about getting that cross threaded and messing up or pulling the thread. I like to thru drill the aluminum and use a 8-32 blind nut with the teeth cut off, epoxied onto the block using the large round head on it. That way if I ever do have thread problems, I can pop out the bad blind nut and use my long needle nose pliers to get another one in there... But the wood framed boats do present access challenges. Is that 6061-T6 material? Really like your build thread, looking good man!

[785boats]

The build is coming along fine. A clear & concise build thread too.
That is a lot of aluminium for the mounting block. I've only ever used 1/4" plate myself. Even in the bigger GP400 & the 1/8 scale hydros. No way will the bolts strip out of the block you have.

Just in relation to the turn fin, I ended up with a UL-1 fin on mine & it worked pretty well too.
Looking forward to the finished boat & the maiden runs.

[CraigP]

785, that UL-1 fin worked for you, eh? I had that as my first fin on my 34" Hydro and found it was bending right about the apex of the turn. It caused the boat to suddenly understeer. At first I was thinking rudder, but that was fine. I put a side brace on it, it still bent! I didn't bend permanently, just moved like a spring... I had to go with a hardened, 7075 aluminum fin to keep it turning true. But I have a heavy boat...

[Luck as a Constant]

Yeah, I always worry about getting that cross threaded and messing up or pulling the thread. I like to thru drill the aluminum and use a 8-32 blind nut with the teeth cut off, epoxied onto the block using the large round head on it. That way if I ever do have thread problems, I can pop out the bad blind nut and use my long needle nose pliers to get another one in there... But the wood framed boats do present access challenges. Is that 6061-T6 material? Really like your build thread, looking good man!

Thanks man. Yep 6061 block from Remington industries.
My plan is to just tap the aluminum, that way if I ever have a problem I can just relocate the fin mount, drill and tap new holes.

[Luck as a Constant]

The build is coming along fine. A clear & concise build thread too.
That is a lot of aluminium for the mounting block. I've only ever used 1/4" plate myself. Even in the bigger GP400 & the 1/8 scale hydros. No way will the bolts strip out of the block you have.

Just in relation to the turn fin, I ended up with a UL-1 fin on mine & it worked pretty well too.
Looking forward to the finished boat & the maiden runs.

Thanks man. I tried not to overdo the build thread and loose people in a mountain of tiny details.
Yeah this 1/2 block is way overkill, but it certainly isn't hurting anything lol.
On the fin I ended up with a stainless still fin from mojo racing.

[Luck as a Constant]

IMG_4936.jpgIMG_4933.jpgHere you can see my fin mount, which is just a speedmaster universal rudder mount. 4 bolts into a 1/2 thick aluminum block should be good even thru the explosion of our sun lol

And as you can see, the rear predrilled holes are fine, just need to drill a front and I'm good

[785boats]

Hi Craig.
I would say that this 31" boat is a lot lighter than your 'heavy' 34" boat. Probably why the UL-1 fin worked well on mine.
Here is another fin that works well on sport 20 size boats like this. Designed by "Raydee" here on this forum. I have a couple working well.
cache.jpg

[785boats]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]154039[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]154040[/ATTACH]Here you can see my fin mount, which is just a speedmaster universal rudder mount. 4 bolts into a 1/2 thick aluminum block should be good even thru the explosion of our sun lol

And as you can see, the rear predrilled holes are fine, just need to drill a front and I'm good

Great looking fin.
If Mike recommends it, you can bet that it will work extremely well.

[Luck as a Constant]

so, todays attempt at drilling and tapping for the turn fin was an utter failure. i hadn't considered what tapping 1/2 thick aluminum would be like. well, the first attempt the tap broke inside. so i figured ok, ill just move along to another. the second hole wasn't going much better. but instead of making things worse, i just took the heat gun out and heated up the rather fresh epoxy and gently worked the whole block loose and cleaned out all the glue. i will be grabbing a 1/4 block this time and just pre drilling and tapping before glueing in.
also i decided to mount the strut and rudder. the strut went fine, and then i reoriented the rudder to mount on the left side. i should have asked mike first, because after i mounted i asked him and he told me right side. balls. so i put the boat down and called it a day. i really don't need to continue making things worse.

[Jesse J]

I have most of my rudders on the left side. Controversial topic, per the norm in this hobby.
Mine all handle great and even the one or two I have on the right run great.
If I were doing this build, I'd leave it on left side and change once I had a chance to run and determine handling.
Mike himself may see how it runs and be impressed. I think there are other variables that are more critical to get right.

[CraigP]

Mine are on the left by design... The boat makes beautiful turns! Don't worry about that, many have success on both sides.

[CraigP]

so, todays attempt at drilling and tapping for the turn fin was an utter failure. i hadn't considered what tapping 1/2 thick aluminum would be like. well, the first attempt the tap broke inside. so i figured ok, ill just move along to another. the second hole wasn't going much better. but instead of making things worse, i just took the heat gun out and heated up the rather fresh epoxy and gently worked the whole block loose and cleaned out all the glue. i will be grabbing a 1/4 block this time and just pre drilling and tapping before glueing in.
also i decided to mount the strut and rudder. the strut went fine, and then i reoriented the rudder to mount on the left side. i should have asked mike first, because after i mounted i asked him and he told me right side. balls. so i put the boat down and called it a day. i really don't need to continue making things worse.

I was concerned about that... aluminum is very grabby to tap. Need to blow, oil and back thread a lot. I was going to recommend a 1/4" block, but I picked up from you that you wanted the thick piece. Good play to pre-tap, you can use one drill size larger to go thru the boat to match up to the block. But matching up those holes isn't real easy which is why I like to thru-drill the block and get a nut glued on the back side. Those blind nuts are damn good dude! I ain't saying no more about that, lol!

[Luck as a Constant]

I was concerned about that... aluminum is very grabby to tap. Need to blow, oil and back thread a lot. I was going to recommend a 1/4" block, but I picked up from you that you wanted the thick piece. Good play to pre-tap, you can use one drill size larger to go thru the boat to match up to the block. But matching up those holes isn't real easy which is why I like to thru-drill the block and get a nut glued on the back side. Those blind nuts are damn good dude! I ain't saying no more about that, lol!

yeah man, ill get it all figured out. just needed to step away from it for today. i may just go with a bind nut. we will see

[Luck as a Constant]

IMG_4997.jpgIMG_5003.jpgIMG_4998.jpgI got some 1/4 aluminum, marked the holes then drilled and tapped it before glueing in. I used a small amount of glue when glueing so I didn't get it near the threads, and used the bolts to glue into place to be sure everything lined up proper. That whole part of this build was a bit of a chore for me, but now it's done and I can move on.