My first Build

[Newboater]

First time build and I'm pretty clueless but I never let that stop me before Using the forum info and pictures for the build.
A nice little Mean Machine 2. The better half helped by adding the extra carbon fiber for the rest of the bottom and the sides of the hull. I installed bind nuts in the transom to mount the strut so I don't have to ask the boss for help because my hand don't fit inside there. Also strengthened the hatch with 2ounce fiberglass. Didn't use carbon fiber as I was worried that the carbon fiber would limit the radio receiver signal. I think I am going to try and mount receiver and antenna inside the hull as the receiver is a SR201 with a really small antenna length. If that receiver doesn't work then I will switch to a 301, and move the antenna to outside the boat. Also made a nice little PVC boat stand for working on and transporting the boat.

Running gear will be:
OSE offset rudder.
Leopard 1500KV 4082
Seaking 180 ESC
Spektrum DX2e
Travis's Hatch bolt kit.

[golfito]

Excellent!
Not be occurred had the reduction with carbon fiber signal. I hope not to be so... late for my.
Also gonna to use Spektrum, but the old sr3500 or sr3001.
Beautiful hull.

[Newboater]

Okay motor mount installed and strut mounted. Next up stuffing tube.............

[Newboater]

Did a little more work today. Motor strut and stuffing tube done. Next ESC and steering servo

[NativePaul]

Sorry, but that stuffing tube is no good, if used as is the flex will be very inefficient, heat up and quickly break where that hard bend is, you want a gradual bend over nearly the whole length of the stuffing tube.

Remove the liner (if fitted), and the strut, then heat the stuffing tube with a soldering iron (or heat gun if you protect the hull from the heat), when hot it will weaken the JB weld locally and let you pull it out with pliers. You will have to extend the length of the slot in the bottom much further back as well, to put a stuffing tube with a more reasonable bend in.

[Newboater]

Okay going to redo the problem is the distance on the mean machine for the stuffing tube is pretty short.

[Mxkid261]

My rivercat tube is about that same length you need it like this

[Newboater]

My rivercat tube is about that same length you need it like this

Thanks,
Can you show me a picture of the inside by the motor also..

[Mxkid261]

Sure thing. Motor is as low as it could go with a long cooling jacket.

[Newboater]

Thanks,
going to try again tomorrow hopefully with better results

[Newboater]

Stuffing tube

Okay redid the stuffing tube does this one look good before I JB weld it in??

DSC_2629.jpgDSC_2630.jpg

[fweasel]

The bend radius is much improved, but the tube/strut looks really low in relation to the bottom of the sponsons. Can you post a picture or take a measurement of the bottom of the strut in relation to the bottom of the sponsons?

[Newboater]

The bend radius is much improved, but the tube/strut looks really low in relation to the bottom of the sponsons. Can you post a picture or take a measurement of the bottom of the strut in relation to the bottom of the sponsons?

Here is a picture with a 1914 prop. The strut is as positive as it can go to accommodate this prop a small prop I can go more positive. Is it okay for the stuffing tube to be above the sponsons.

[fweasel]

I have no experience with that hull, but on my 29" cats, the strut sweet spot was a good 3-4mm above the bottom of the sponsons, at a neutral trim angle. I could place the boat on a flat table without a prop, and the strut and stuffing tube would not touch.

[TheShaddix]

As a general rule you want the strut always inline with your sponsons, not below or above. This way it won't be creating any drag. Only your prop and the bottom of the strut should touch the water. When you set the boat on a flat table you should have all of the 3 parts touching down evenly. If you find that your prop is too small, put a bigger prop on. Only half of your prop needs to be in the water when it's on plane.