Help me with my first build: Delta Force Explorer 36 cat.

[boredom.is.me]

Speaking of cooling, what's going on in there? Having more entry points doesn't automatically mean more flow in the direction you want. An extra entry can also be an extra exit. Fluids flow to where ever has the least pressure. If all entries aren't submerged, your cooling is literally not reaching anything in the boat.

One in, one out, no t's or y's. You have 6 entry points cooling 3 components (2 on the esc).

[RuntheraceAMC]

I made the mistake of drilling the holes for the larger double pickups before I realized my water cooled engine mount did not fit so two lines I thought I was going to use were no longer needed.

Besides that I have two separate lines to the esc a third to an esc cooling plate and the motor. I hear what you are saying. I just didn't know what to do when the mount didn't fit. Good news is that I can see flow from all four exhaust pipes so all components should be getting some flow.

[grsboats]

Looking to your pics I see a raw prop ...don't forget to have it well balanced and sharpened and get ready for some action on 6S.Good boating.

[RuntheraceAMC]

Just balanced it tonight. Getting ready for tomorrow

[bob horowitz]

Speaking of cooling, what's going on in there? Having more entry points doesn't automatically mean more flow in the direction you want. An extra entry can also be an extra exit. Fluids flow to where ever has the least pressure. If all entries aren't submerged, your cooling is literally not reaching anything in the boat.

One in, one out, no t's or y's. You have 6 entry points cooling 3 components (2 on the esc).

What's the problem with using a "y" in the cooling lines. I'm building a rigger and I was planning on running my inlet from the rudder to a "y" and then having a line each to the motor and the ESC. Then on to two separate outlets. Is that a no no? Should I just run a single through the motor and then through the ESC, or the reverse. I always forget which to cool first. Sorry to hijack the thread.
Bob

[RuntheraceAMC]

Esc first then motor if you are doing a single line.

[boredom.is.me]

What's the problem with using a "y" in the cooling lines. I'm building a rigger and I was planning on running my inlet from the rudder to a "y" and then having a line each to the motor and the ESC. Then on to two separate outlets. Is that a no no? Should I just run a single through the motor and then through the ESC, or the reverse. I always forget which to cool first. Sorry to hijack the thread.
Bob

It's really just basic physics. Electricity, fluids, pretty much anything that can, will ALWAYS take the path of least resistance. Meaning a y connector does not mean a 50/50 split. It could be 75/25 or even 0/100. You're better off with a single line to the esc, then to the motor and out.

[bob horowitz]

Thanks Guys.
Bob

[RuntheraceAMC]

What size shaft should I be running with my set up. I've blown thru three 3/16 shafts in two days

[Fluid]

A 3/16" cable is plenty, I've run 99 mph with a cable that size. If you are blowing up cables then something else is very wrong.

- be sure to leave a 3/16" gap between the strut and the drive dog
- the distance between the motor coupler and the end of the stuffing tube should be no more than 5/8"
- use a good lube on the cable, relube at least once every day
- take the cable out and dry it off after each day of running

Are you running a Teflon liner? If not what is the exact size of the stuffing tube?



.

[RuntheraceAMC]

I know what the problem is. I was just to lazy to fix it. I set the motor about 1/4- 3/8 an inch too far forward for the length of my shaft so I was only getting about 1/8-1/4 an inch of flex shaft in the collet. So I was stripping them like crazy. Then I bought a shat too long and had to leave an inch gap between the stuffing tube and the collet to make it work. That ended ugly. Moving he motor and installing a new stuffing tube now

[fweasel]

You break a lot of stuff. Just sayin'

[RuntheraceAMC]

I've cultivated that reputation. The guys at the hobby shop just hang their heads and mutter, "what did you do today?"

[RuntheraceAMC]

So my DFE 36 is starting to get tuned in now that I've been able to run it a few times. Shaft issues are fixed.

Let me just say that this hull is awesome! It seems like it struggles to stay glued to the water all the way to near 3/4 throttle. Then all a sudden it squats and goes. This thing is glued to the water. I keep thinking I am running it wet but my COG is less than 30% from the end of the sponsons. I would guess I am touching 65mph on 6s with a 645 prop. Temps are good esc 95-105. Motor 100-110

I have put he 648 on but just for short runs. Need to check temps on that prop

Installed bilge pumps for each side because my shaft leaks. Could not avoid having the stuffing tube low due to the motor being so tight in this boat. No worries. The bilge pumps are a cool addition for a geek like me

I am having one problem. My setup is swelling my batteries. I am using pulse 4500mah 45c 5s and 6s batteries. Also the revoletrics 5s 5000mah 70c battery from OSE. Battery temps are 130-150 f. If my motor 4092 1730kv) and esc (raider) 150 are running cool am I really pulling too many amps. Those aren't low quality batteries

Any ideas on the issue?

[RuntheraceAMC]

Another question: If I run my servo off of a separate set of batteries will I see performance gains out of my setup?

FYI- my bilges are also on separate batteries