Pete's Shooter P-Sport Hydro

[Speed810]

Little progress tonight

Finished off the interior epoxy and glass work. Added a little heavier glass up front in the battery compartment.

Then mounted the strut and rudder assembly. Started to look at the motor mount. I have some 1/8" aluminum stock 1 1/4" wide, but after looking at it I'm thinking it should be 1 1/2" providing a little more mounting surface.

What width were you guys using on yours?

[TRUCKPULL]

I made mine out of 1/8" plate and 1 3/4" high. The same size as the template in the kit.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...10-Black-pearl

Larry

[785boats]

Mine was 40mm (1-1/2")
I would have used 1-3/4" if i had any, but I didn't.

[T.S.Davis]

I have aluminum honeycomb I'll be using.

[Speed810]

Motor Mount

Completed the motor mounting plate tonight. Picked up some 2" wide (1/8") aluminum plate this afternoon. Cut the plate, filed and sanded square on my belt sander. Used the template to line up and drill the mounting holes. Worked great and lined up perfectly. Drilled the remaining holes for the motor mounting. Have to pick up the right size bolts for mounting the plate to the hull, but temporally securing it with a couple of nylon bolts it really seemed very sturdy for the TP motor. I was thinking of using a rear mounting ring for the back, but changed my mind seeing how sturdy it is.

I do think I am going to drill at least 4 more 3/16 to 1/4" holes around the perimeter to allow a little more air flow to the motor.

Got an email from Dick Tyndall today and he is pretty close to finishing up the 2 Virginia Craftsman fins I ordered for this boat and my Q boat. As soon as those get in next week I can install those and get the flotation in the sponsons and decks on.

Terry I like the idea of using that honeycomb...very light and actually pretty ridged. Where did you find that at?

Later all...

Mike

[Shooter]

That motor mount looks incredibly stout. You'll never have a problem with that! Nice! All of mine are only 0.060" thick and I haven't had any problems. I know you guys think I'm crazy, but I really think you could get away with using the 1/8" birch template as the actual motor mount. I'm going to try it next year! The AL takes some heat from the end bell though which is a major advantage.

[Speed810]

Hey Pete....

Would you think it better to leave the plate solid or would you think it ok to drill a few holes around the perimeter to allow air flow? Plus it would lighten it up a bit too...LOL

Completed the motor install last night with stainless bolts etc... cut the foam to fit in the side channels of the hull. Could not find any 1" foam out there. The 1" foam at Lowes is actually 3/4"....So got that and had to cut everything to fit. 2 pieces in each cavity...oh well little more work, but a nice fit. I do like cutting that foam board a lot better than the more open cell type stuff....I get done cutting that stuff and sanding and it looks like its snowing in my shop...LOL

Mike

[TRUCKPULL]

Hey Pete....

Would you think it better to leave the plate solid or would you think it ok to drill a few holes around the perimeter to allow air flow? Plus it would lighten it up a bit too...LOL

Completed the motor install last night with stainless bolts etc... cut the foam to fit in the side channels of the hull. Could not find any 1" foam out there. The 1" foam at Lowes is actually 3/4"....So got that and had to cut everything to fit. 2 pieces in each cavity...oh well little more work, but a nice fit. I do like cutting that foam board a lot better than the more open cell type stuff....I get done cutting that stuff and sanding and it looks like its snowing in my shop...LOL

Mike

Mike

Look here, in post #7 you will see the pic's of the motor plate with the extra holes for air.
Seeing that I used 1/8" plate there is NO problem.
The air flow through the motor can not hurt, and there is still enough contact for the aluminum to extract heat from the front of the motor also.

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...10-Black-pearl

Larry

[Speed810]

Larry thanks for the link to your build....Your boat is looking great!! Very nice job.
What you did with the motor plate is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Was almost thinking of running a top and bottom aluminum water cooling tube across the width of the motor plate for a bit more cooling. But figured I would see how this works first...lol Probably over kill.

Finished up the foam installation on the center section, pre-fitted the servo, mounted the water cooling outlets, installed the rudder pushrod tube and started thinking about ESC mounting location and wire routing. Where the ESC is in the photo is where I would like to put it.

A couple of questions for you guys...
1) I used just a couple of the 7/32" round type water outlets...Is there a tip you guys might have to connecting the water tubes up with it stuck back under the deck? Or you just using a good old pair of needle nose and slowly feeding the tube onto the fitting?....lol I had taken care of this on my 1/8 scale with one of those dual bullet type water exits, drilled out the back of the fitting for 5/32 tubing and used JB weld to secure them in place. the tubes were about 2 1/2" in length so I could feed the tubes through the hull side and they would extend about 1/2" into the center section....worked great. But decided to use these OSE water outlets.
2) In your P and Q boats are you using just Velcro on the bottom of your batteries to secure them to the bottom of the hull or do some of you use any type of strapping to secure your batteries? On my 1/8 scale I used straps, but it had a battery tray that allowed for that.

Thanks in advance...

Mike

[785boats]

Looking good mike.
That's a good spot for the ESC.

Cooling lines on the motor mount won't be required. But you should try & rotate the cooling can to get the water outlet at the top of the motor. A longer can would also be a bit better too.

With the water outlets I usually just epoxy a piece of 5mm aluminium or brass tube straight through the side of the boat & into the main tub for easy access, as shown in the pics. I use 4mm ID tubing, hence the 5mm tubing.

As for the batteries. Some boats I use battery plates with velcro & straps, & some I just use velcro stuck directly to the bottom of the hull.
This particular boat I just used velcro As shown in the pics. But good velcro.

[Speed810]

Stuffing tube mount

Hey Paul....

Thanks for the advise. plumbed the water lines last night, and rotated the cooling can. I am thinking that's what you were talking about to have the outlet on top. Just asking, but why is that...Better cooling flow? Your right on the cooling can...I realy don't like it either, but at the time it was the only can that would work with one of OSE's 40mm mounts, but then it also had the front cooling plate. So going to hunt down a longer can for it.

Completed all the alignment and installation of the stuffing tube. Everything aligned really well. Thanks Pete for some of your tips for this. Almost wish I had some of those tips back last year for my 1/8 scale build....lol Decided to use the different layers of glass cloth and West system. Laid 1 layer length wise, 2 more across and 1 more length wise. After curing it really appears to be a good bond and very ridged. Have to do the same to the bottom of the boat tonight just not as many layers, probably 2.

OK....here is a question for you guys....Noticed I need a couple more RX's for these boats....lol Yea, kind of left that out of my checklist.... I'm running the Futaba 3PM-X transmitter currently with the R603FF RX. Boy those darn things are not cheap..... Have any of you fellas been running the OrangeRX GR400F or the Frysky RX's at all. Tried a few different searches and really could not find anything. Other goggle searches that I have done say the OrangeRX is compatible with the FASST systems and in particular the 3PM and 3PK systems. However it is not compatible with the FHSS or S-FHSS systems. sounds like others have been impressed with the OrangeRX line....no performance difference at all.There is a whole lot of difference between $30 and 80$ when your trying to keep things on a budget. Bad idea or they work fine????


Thanks guys

Mike

[Shooter]

The reason we run the outlet on the top is to limit air pockets in the system. Air will always go to the highest point (up and out). Stuffing tube looks nice. Very clean. Don't ask me about RX's or TX's, I'm still using an original Tactic and it's kind of the joke of our club. Never any problems though!

[Speed810]

Hey Pete....

Well I still use my Tatic on my UL-1....but not sure that it will see much racing. Just not setup for racing unless you make some big changes to it. But the radio sure seems to work well.

Understand on the water outlet....didn't even realize that....So many things to learn. I'm kind of wondering if that may be a problem on my 8th scale with that NEU 1527....have to check it out tonight. It does seem to run hotter than what I would like.

Thanks again

Mike

[785boats]

Exactly what Pete said about the air pocket. If the outlet is at the highest point, there won't be an air pocket.

As for the radio. I'm in the same boat as Pete.
I've been running my HobbyKing $20.00 GT-1 radio, bound to about 30 different boats, with 30 different $7.00 receivers for the last 5 or so years.
And that's at Club, State, & National levels.
They all laugh at me too Pete.

[ray schrauwen]

Air pocket huh??? Never knew until now.