MHZ 138 - McLaren Theme

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  • nata2run
    customcfparts.com
    • Nov 2011
    • 1876

    #16
    Ok got some more stuff done, installed the rudder and also hydraulics. I'm still not sold on the MHZ hydraulics, so we used a combination of MHZ and MBP. Grrrrr two systems to make one LOL. Also using the HRC cooling cans made for L/R motor. Will do some pimpin' on those a bit later

    IMG_2112.jpgIMG_2114.jpgIMG_2116.jpgIMG_2117.jpgIMG_2118.jpg
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    • dmitry100
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Mar 2015
      • 1264

      #17
      nata2run: I was gonna ask you -- have you ever made a carbon spoiler for a cat before? Could only imagine how that would look for a mclaren themed cat

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      • nata2run
        customcfparts.com
        • Nov 2011
        • 1876

        #18
        Originally posted by dmitry100 View Post
        nata2run: I was gonna ask you -- have you ever made a carbon spoiler for a cat before? Could only imagine how that would look for a mclaren themed cat
        Dimitry, I thought about it but it wouldn't work well in a crash. but then again... boats really don't have the need for one?
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        • nata2run
          customcfparts.com
          • Nov 2011
          • 1876

          #19
          Got some more work done last night... Installed stuffing tubes and gave them a carbon wrap as well. Was really deficult to bend under 4" of this thick walled brass tube.

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          • shelby1
            Junior Member
            • Aug 2015
            • 2

            #20
            Cool build.....what % cog are you shooting for. thanks

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            • nata2run
              customcfparts.com
              • Nov 2011
              • 1876

              #21
              Originally posted by shelby1 View Post
              Cool build.....what % cog are you shooting for. thanks
              These cats run well in the 30's but for a high speed setup its closer to 40's I've got about 9" to play with on the lipo sleds. Weight distribution in the hull is more important. The drawing will give you and idea about distribution.

              COC.jpg
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              • shelby1
                Junior Member
                • Aug 2015
                • 2

                #22
                Originally posted by nata2run View Post
                These cats run well in the 30's but for a high speed setup its closer to 40's I've got about 9" to play with on the lipo sleds. Weight distribution in the hull is more important. The drawing will give you and idea about distribution.

                [ATTACH=CONFIG]135589[/ATTACH]
                Thanks for the reply, I come from the gas side of rc boating, so the cog is more important in the build. We don't have the weight of the batteries to move so freely. On a big cat we usally set the up at 32% to 34% With no fuel load

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                • nata2run
                  customcfparts.com
                  • Nov 2011
                  • 1876

                  #23
                  Originally posted by shelby1 View Post
                  Thanks for the reply, I come from the gas side of rc boating, so the cog is more important in the build. We don't have the weight of the batteries to move so freely. On a big cat we usally set the up at 32% to 34% With no fuel load
                  its similar then! but gas boats get lighter as it runs out of fuel. Electric don't!, Don't get me wrong. COG is most important!! but for these fast cats, a set of motors placed near the middle of the boat, will call for a very unstable one at 90mph+. So its still very important how that weight is distributed but maintaining the intended COG. The picture above just shows that there are multiple ways to achieve the SAME COG, but the boat will not react the same.
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                  • dmitry100
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Mar 2015
                    • 1264

                    #24
                    nata2run: How about something low-profile? I think it would look so much faster with one lol. Plus it'd match the Mclaren. I wonder if it can be done to help with the aerodynamics though...

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                    • TheShaddix
                      Senior Member
                      • Sep 2013
                      • 759

                      #25
                      dmitry100: I'm pretty sure that if a spoiler were of any benefit on this type of boat, the real mystics would be running with them too. Have you seen videos of those? The only thing that would keep a boat like that down is its own weight. If anything, the spoiler would only serve a purpose mounted at the front as most of the crashes result from bow lift. I thought about making a vertical fin like that on the older miss geico (http://i.ytimg.com/vi/edZLHtUGAd4/maxresdefault.jpg), now that's one cool looking mod. Just not sure how to make it yet. Of course that would be just for looks.

                      Hey Nata, awesome progress so far. I've always been a fan of your attention to detail. One question: is there any reason to have the collets so close to the tubes? Just wondering as I see that on a lot of boats. And another question: what tool do you use to remove the motors from the mounts? Just a regular hex key? Takes forever to unbolt them manually. Just thought maybe you had a faster way.

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                      • nata2run
                        customcfparts.com
                        • Nov 2011
                        • 1876

                        #26
                        It may very well look good with the spoiler, but I don't think it will have no benefit. Could be dangerous to tamper with the dynamics. As Shaddix mentioned, it's the weight of the boat itself and the ballance that keeps them on the water. Cars usually don't do back flips, but benefit from pushing the rear down to get/sustain traction.
                        @ shaddix, as long as the gap is not over an inch you should be fine really. I will grind the tube down a little so there will be around 1/4" or so gap. In this case it gives me a higher mounting point for the stuffing tube support. The hole pattern on the LMT is 40mm apart very easy to get a hex key in there. 1 minute at most to get them out. On my HPR115 it was like 20 min lol. It also helps that the motor pulls out with the collet attached. Nearly a 1" hole in that motor mount!
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                        • dmitry100
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Mar 2015
                          • 1264

                          #27
                          So the thing being mentioned about Cog earlier -- so then it'd be best to keep the motors mounted all the way to the back as possible then?

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                          • nata2run
                            customcfparts.com
                            • Nov 2011
                            • 1876

                            #28
                            Dimitry, In many cases yes... but not always will it allow for the correct COG. These LMT's are extremely heavy so it works well for those. We still aim for a COG of around 35%+-
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                            • nata2run
                              customcfparts.com
                              • Nov 2011
                              • 1876

                              #29
                              Soo, yesterday was semi productive as we got to work out the measurements and placement for the elevated plates. Cheapest option is just to print a version and see what it looks like, before we cut the real deal. Then a bit of Photoshop to Place the render drawing

                              test plates .jpgtest plates paper.jpg
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                              • nata2run
                                customcfparts.com
                                • Nov 2011
                                • 1876

                                #30
                                Friday and Saturday was busy building and cutting. The top mounts are finally done!! Next will be the lipo system

                                IMG_2137.jpgIMG_2140.jpgIMG_2149.jpg
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