Build Advice Wanted - Large Mono

[Make-a-Wake]

I would not go with a strut, i would use a stinger

[Fluid]

I support going with a gas boat power system clone, which is the Castle 2028 on 8S. Spins a big gas prop with better efficiency for a big hull. Some experienced racers run that 8S setup in T-Class Hydros with good success. Since the OP already owns the 4S packs he can try 8S and if he doesn't like the results he can put in 10S and prop down. The motor and ESC would not need to be changed.

i would NOT use the strut in the posted link. Get the extended version to keep the prop farther off the transom. A stinger does not give the adjustment needed if the OP wants the versatility of 8S and 10S.




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[srislash]

What's Jim's Dock?

Jim's was where all the gas guys conversed Rick. Just like OSE. That last virus strike messed up the board and they packed it in. Or so I heard

[Roy Van De Sande]

90km/h is easily achievable with a low rpm setup. I would use a TP motor instead of a castle 2028. The 6 pole design of the TP's makes them the
better motors for the application. If you want to use a 8s setup I would suggest a TP5850 around 850kv on 8s3p. This would also be a good setup.

A MHZ scorpion 5035 760kv on 8s3p with a big gas prop would also work perfect if 90km/h topspeed is fine. If you want the most efficient setup, the scorpion is the way to go. Because of the 8-pole design they can handle some big props. If you use a 8s setup and a TP5850 I would suggest at least a 300A esc. Maybe you can try a alien 400A 16s esc. This is a flier esc but with slight changes to make them work better. I use a flier 400A 16s esc now for a while and I am very satisfied with this esc! One of the best I have ever had. If you chose for the 5035 scorpion you can use a SF 300A without any problems.

I prefer a stinger instead of a strut. A stinger allows more adjustment in prop angle and can make the difference between a good running boat or a normal running boat. Give the MTC 3 eco (115mm long) a try. You will not regret buying some good hardware for your boat!

[Doug Smock]

I would NOT use the strut in the posted link. Get the extended version to keep the prop farther off the transom. A stinger does not give the adjustment needed if the OP wants the versatility of 8S and 10S.

Jay is right.

IME
Seldom is stinger angle adjustment enough unless you know exactly what diameter prop you will be running.

Being able to raise, lower the strut has greater benefits and you can run any angle you could with a stinger. (Which should be minimal BTW +/- a degree or two)

Check out the extended strut in the pictures (link) I posted above. IIRC Speed Master pt# SPDS-010-250MR

Install some version of a "irrigated shaft alley", "flood chamber" etc. and you'll be set to run whatever prop the set up requires.

Having said that. If you just really like a stinger and have some prop skills, you'll be able to make her happy.

my .02 FWIW

Good luck with the build.

[photohoward1]

Jim's was where all the gas guys conversed Rick. Just like OSE. That last virus strike messed up the board and they packed it in. Or so I heard

Jims's has been back up for a long time.


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[Doug Smock]

http://jrcbd.com/forum/forum.php

[Make-a-Wake]

I actually had the same boat a few years ago, sold it since, here is the only vid i got of it in its maiden.

This was set up to be a "scale" boat as it had full interior and all so i set it up very conservatively with a 5692 1000kv on 6s.

You can expect about 30-40% more speed from yours with the larger motors you are considering as well as the 8-10s.

I incorrectly labeled it as a 60 incher cuz the guy that sold it to me said it was....................never checked til a month later that it was 54"!

Just thought I'd let you see one running

[rickwess]

Lots of good info here and as expected different thoughts. I won't say I'm confused, just so many ideas running through my head. Before I started this thread I wanted to have all the internal hardware made from aluminum. I thought it would make for a nice contrast against a CF inlay. Since I'm not a machinist and don't know of any, I might be overly optimistic with that.

I'm so so with props and don't expect to get much better since I've outsourced all my props to Chris. Regardless of which way I go, I'm confident that Chris will be able to work up the right prop for me.

Thanks for the video M-a-W. Do you have pics of the boat you can share? What kind of turn fins did you use? I was wondering how well that "skeg" that's built into the hull works to keep the boat planted in the turns.

[Make-a-Wake]

Pics as requested Rick:

[Make-a-Wake]

few more, i can only load 5 per post for some reason........

[srislash]

Jims's has been back up for a long time.


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My bad, haven't talked with any of the gas buddies in a bit.

[Roy Van De Sande]

Lots of good info here and as expected different thoughts. I won't say I'm confused, just so many ideas running through my head. Before I started this thread I wanted to have all the internal hardware made from aluminum. I thought it would make for a nice contrast against a CF inlay. Since I'm not a machinist and don't know of any, I might be overly optimistic with that.

For the inlay of your boat, you can buy some 5mm triplex wood. Cut out your rails/motormount/battery tray, than you put a nice layer of carbon fiber on it. I put 2 or 3 on the motormount and you have what you need for a low price. Some aluminium is nice but wood is easier to work with for me personally. Just like this: roy-van-de-sande-albums-buster-picture195371-a.jpg

This is the result. The opening in the rails is to mount a servo.

roy-van-de-sande-albums-buster-picture195724-a.jpg