Carbon fiber single daytona build

[kfxguy]

I have to build at least one twin.... will be ordering a kbb 45" end of next week probably take me a few months to collect all the hardware for it but should be fun

I have a twin I'm collecting parts for.

[kfxguy]

Oh ok I saw the markings I put on it and I forgot you got the 1521 from me too. Put the 1527 in it on 8s and see how it goes

How's this?

looks like 38k rpm on 8s and 42,750rpm on 9s. I just checked, it'll fit 9s in it. That's roughly the same rpm my rivercat turns on 6s, which nets me about 84.5mph. I'm sure with the extra tq this motor has, I could get close.

[keithbradley]

It should by all means be faster.

[srislash]

How's this?

looks like 38k rpm on 8s and 42,750rpm on 9s. I just checked, it'll fit 9s in it. That's roughly the same rpm my rivercat turns on 6s, which nets me about 84.5mph. I'm sure with the extra tq this motor has, I could get close.

That is about where my twin is now Travis, 41-42,000 real prop rpm and 85mph on 447/3's.

So what mah are the packs you are running?

[kfxguy]

That is about where my twin is now Travis, 41-42,000 real prop rpm and 85mph on 447/3's.

So what mah are the packs you are running?

5500 70c revolectrix silvers.

I'm new to the logging. ...but I do like it. It tell me alot more about what's going on that what I thought it would. Heres some numbers (rounded off tho)....
I bench tested it on 6s (different motor) and with a few blips of the throttle it registered around 42k rpm with the batteries in storage mode (3.85v)
Then batteries fully charged, made passes and it dropped to 31k rpm under load pulling 260 something amps max. Scary. That tells me something is way wrong. Of course we know what that was because I posted it earlier, but it's nice to see things in the "real world" instead of guesstimating.....which is what I've been doing. I may have to figure a way to have a data logging esc that I can move easily from boat to boat when setting things up.

[srislash]

I have been using the Eagle Tree for quite some time now buddy. And on the Fantasm I put the magnetic rpm sensor on. So this is not electrical rpm but actual shaft rpm. I have the electrical rpm sensor here too but have not installed it yet. If I could get my 'pack voltage' display back it would help a lot. Having these really informs you what works or not and why.
Now if I can just get some decent time to 'play'.

[kfxguy]

I have been using the Eagle Tree for quite some time now buddy. And on the Fantasm I put the magnetic rpm sensor on. So this is not electrical rpm but actual shaft rpm. I have the electrical rpm sensor here too but have not installed it yet. If I could get my 'pack voltage' display back it would help a lot. Having these really informs you what works or not and why.
Now if I can just get some decent time to 'play'.

You know what be awesome.....if you could plug your phone into the logger and display the info. That would be the shiznit.

[tjdabomb]

Here's the desired effect (well for me!)

Question/observation..... This may be gilding the lily but... wouldn't it look cleaner to fab the stuffing tube first and then do the cf inlay after so one could CF over the epoxy and have a uniform/unbroken look of cf?

As usual, great work Trav, looks bada$$

[kfxguy]

Question/observation..... This may be gilding the lily but... wouldn't it look cleaner to fab the stuffing tube first and then do the cf inlay after so one could CF over the epoxy and have a uniform/unbroken look of cf?

As usual, great work Trav, looks bada$$

Well I'm not so sure that would work out so great. I did that in my geico and it looked ok but it wasnt a look i was fond of. Then the way it is i can bust up the epoxy and fix it should something happen and I have to fix it.

[TheShaddix]

And also cutting a small hole in a nice inlay piece like that isn't the best idea as you'll need to slide/position the fabric perfectly. I think it looks super clean with black epoxy like that, it wouldn't look as clean with just cloth around the tube. There is also something you can try... Remove the tape around those edges right when it gets semi-cured, then heat it up with a heat gun so the resin becomes smoother around those edges. This way it looks more "sealed" and not have sharp edges/corners.

[kfxguy]

And also cutting a small hole in a nice inlay piece like that isn't the best idea as you'll need to slide/position the fabric perfectly. I think it looks super clean with black epoxy like that, it wouldn't look as clean with just cloth around the tube. There is also something you can try... Remove the tape around those edges right when it gets semi-cured, then heat it up with a heat gun so the resin becomes smoother around those edges. This way it looks more "sealed" and not have sharp edges/corners.

Agreed.

[tjdabomb]

Trav, ya got a pic of the MG with the inlay?

I am feeling y'all on my idea, just thought I would throw it out there.

[kfxguy]

Trav, ya got a pic of the MG with the inlay?

I am feeling y'all on my idea, just thought I would throw it out there.

[tjdabomb]

Excellent.

Maybe a noob question, but, why do most CF battery trays (not yours, obviously) only have perpendicular slots (port/starboard) and not longitudinal (stem/stern) slots so velcro straps can be affixed? makes no sense to me......

[kfxguy]

Excellent.

Maybe a noob question, but, why do most CF battery trays (not yours, obviously) only have perpendicular slots (port/starboard) and not longitudinal (stem/stern) slots so velcro straps can be affixed? makes no sense to me......

No idea....I cut slots so I can strap it like a normal person. Lol