Mr Krabs build

[Xzessperated]

Did I sayit will happen to you?!
Sorry, I meant it happens to others, never to us.

Yeah same as I have been bragging about my good run with Castle esc's. This morning shot that theory to pieces though. I still can not say a bad word about them. I have given them hell and I do not know how they have lasted this long. This morning before I starterd I told myslef I would do one lap and bring Mr. Krabs in and let him cool off before the next lap. Well pretty soon I forgot that and was enjoying myself so much I started doing 2 and 3 laps at a time.
Do we ever recover our sanity and get over this FE boat disease?

[Ub Hauled]

Nope... once you are caught that's it mon amie...
all down hill from here...

[Xzessperated]

Nope... once you are caught that's it mon amie...
all down hill from here...

Great. That is the best news I have had all day.

[andym]

Paddy its good to hear you are nuts like the rest of us. As far as blow overs go if you get a lot more speed with the 1521 1d and I am sure you will do not raise the strut any more. I like to set my strut depth by raising it until I get the old sponson lift and blow over and then deepen it by about 3 mm or until it is settled. The xs3 has that rear shoe that will help stop the arse dropping and making a blow over happen. This is probably one of the reasons that they are reported as the best handling 4s rigger hull around. I have a spare CC240 at least until I get the cat so if you need to try one call me.
Cheers
Andrew

[Xzessperated]

Paddy its good to hear you are nuts like the rest of us. As far as blow overs go if you get a lot more speed with the 1521 1d and I am sure you will do not raise the strut any more. I like to set my strut depth by raising it until I get the old sponson lift and blow over and then deepen it by about 3 mm or until it is settled. The xs3 has that rear shoe that will help stop the arse dropping and making a blow over happen. This is probably one of the reasons that they are reported as the best handling 4s rigger hull around. I have a spare CC240 at least until I get the cat so if you need to try one call me.
Cheers
Andrew

Andy that is a more than generous offer but I hate to borrow things like that. The YGE will fit in so I will make a few changes and use that. It will add more weight up front as that is where it will go.
I often tell people that you would give a person the shirt off your back and even wash it first and you have just proved it. Thanks mate.

[slimshady]

Hi Paddy, please could you help me, I have just purchased a SAW Mr Krabs III boat hull in the UK (same as yours) and although I do not want to steal this most excellent thread (probably the best thread I have ever read) I do not know the correct place to post. I have the hull on order, I have a drive / prop shaft arrangement on order with rudder, I have a lot of carbon fibre material, the motor, the radio gear, and lots more.

You have used turn fins on the clubs and have also had problems with clubs turning in i.e. folding the carbon fibre struts. Would a stainless steel collar prevent this? What battery are you using and what motor?

I am so sorry for all the questions but I want to set mine up by learning from your mistakes. Perhaps you could learn from mine eventually (and I mean eventually, I am a bit of a novice but rubbish Design Engineer all the same).

The very best regards


Slim

[Xzessperated]

Hi Paddy, please could you help me, I have just purchased a SAW Mr Krabs III boat hull in the UK (same as yours) and although I do not want to steal this most excellent thread (probably the best thread I have ever read) I do not know the correct place to post. I have the hull on order, I have a drive / prop shaft arrangement on order with rudder, I have a lot of carbon fibre material, the motor, the radio gear, and lots more.

You have used turn fins on the clubs and have also had problems with clubs turning in i.e. folding the carbon fibre struts. Would a stainless steel collar prevent this? What battery are you using and what motor?

I am so sorry for all the questions but I want to set mine up by learning from your mistakes. Perhaps you could learn from mine eventually (and I mean eventually, I am a bit of a novice but rubbish Design Engineer all the same).

The very best regards


Slim

Slim,
Thanks for your compliments.
Hey do not think you are stealing my thread. We do not worry about everything being in its own little pigeon hole in my part of Australia.
Actually if we work together with our problems it will make it a better thread. We will be helping each other and those that choose to read.
First if you go back to post #163 and look at the bottom picture you will see some things I used to solve the problem of the sponson coming loose. I really should have included a picture of the washer that goes on that screw. It is the washer that stops the sponson coming off. I will take the boat to work with me tonight and take more pictures of it to explain it better. Check back in about 2 days to see the update picture.
The turn fin will come off the boat when I start getting to higher speeds. I just wanted to see how this boat would handle as a circuit boat so I put the turn fin on. It turns on a dime as they say in the U.S.A. Needless to say I am very impressed with its handling.
I have been using a 4s Lipo ( PolyQuest 4S1P 4500 mAh 30C ) and a Neu 1521 1.5 D. To get the 100mph ( approx. 160kph ) I am after, I will use a Neu 1521 1 D motor.
You are going to be very impressed with your Mr Krabs. I am already going faster than I have ever been on a 4s Lipo pack and I know there is much more speed to come.
Feel free to post on here anytime and ask all the questions you want. It is by helping each other that we learn and when we share the information we help others.
Good luck with your build
Paddy

[Xzessperated]

Hi Paddy, please could you help me, I have just purchased a SAW Mr Krabs III boat hull in the UK (same as yours) and although I do not want to steal this most excellent thread (probably the best thread I have ever read) I do not know the correct place to post. I have the hull on order, I have a drive / prop shaft arrangement on order with rudder, I have a lot of carbon fibre material, the motor, the radio gear, and lots more.

You have used turn fins on the clubs and have also had problems with clubs turning in i.e. folding the carbon fibre struts. Would a stainless steel collar prevent this? What battery are you using and what motor?

I am so sorry for all the questions but I want to set mine up by learning from your mistakes. Perhaps you could learn from mine eventually (and I mean eventually, I am a bit of a novice but rubbish Design Engineer all the same).

The very best regards


Slim

Slim,
here is the picture I should have posted with the other pictures on #163. It shows the washer that holds the sponsons on.



This has stopped any movement of the sponsons on the boom.

[Xzessperated]

Some pictures of the YGE controller. As you can see from the second picture it just fits in and the Lipo will be directly behind it. I will have to add conformal coating to make it water resistant.





YGE Speed Controller 200 Navy
Technical Data
The stated current is the maximum permanent current in case of good cooling.
• 4 to 15s Lipo, back adjustment in case of low-tension voltage;
• 12 to 45 cells NiMh, back adjustment in case of low-tension voltage
• Anti-flash switch-on circuit
• Over temperature protection
• 5 programmable timing settings
• 5 programmable brake settings
• 4 programmable low voltage cutoff levels
• Operating Frequency 16 kHz
• Maximum motor rpm 240,000 rpm for 2 pole motors
• Opto-coupled receiver lead

Dimensions
• L x W x H: 105 x 72 x 15 mm
• Mass: without / with leads 150 / 220 g

[Ub Hauled]

can the controller sit on top of the batteries when the hatch is on?
The motor leads are a bit long, it may generate
some unnecessary heat and/or mess up your caps.

[slimshady]

Kicky O’ blimey Paddy, 240,000 rpm..... that’s mental – now I know I need a better motor and ESC – I was currently intending on using one of my 60A 540 brushless water cooled 3300Kvm’s with a 60A Mystary (FM60A) ESC but after reading that I now know the hill / mountain I have to climb. With my setup and a 14.8V LiPo I would only achieve 48,000 rpm.

I have to admit I am not after the world speed record, I simply want fast acceleration and about 60 to 80mph (I have a small test lake unlike your nice big lake), now I need to do further research into your excellent power setup (I want it!!!!).

Thank you for your photos unfortunately they mean almost nothing to me until I receive the hull, although I think I know what you have done and it will be one of my first mods – but when I get it boy o boy will I be studding this thread and all of your photos.

Once again thank you so much for your help, looking forward to talking soon


Slim

[Xzessperated]

Kicky O’ blimey Paddy, 240,000 rpm..... that’s mental – now I know I need a better motor and ESC – I was currently intending on using one of my 60A 540 brushless water cooled 3300Kvm’s with a 60A Mystary (FM60A) ESC but after reading that I now know the hill / mountain I have to climb. With my setup and a 14.8V LiPo I would only achieve 48,000 rpm.

I have to admit I am not after the world speed record, I simply want fast acceleration and about 60 to 80mph (I have a small test lake unlike your nice big lake), now I need to do further research into your excellent power setup (I want it!!!!).

Thank you for your photos unfortunately they mean almost nothing to me until I receive the hull, although I think I know what you have done and it will be one of my first mods – but when I get it boy o boy will I be studding this thread and all of your photos.

Once again thank you so much for your help, looking forward to talking soon


Slim

Slim,
My setup does not do 240,000 rpm. I just copied and pasted that data from the YGE instruction manual as many of the guys here like to know that type of information. That is what YGE say the esc is capable of.
When choosing an esc get one that has a greater amp rating that the amps you are going to use. A bit more money spent in the beginning might save a lot of money later. I think the Neu 1521 1.5 D motor would be a good choice if you want to do about 60 to 80 mph. That small lake is going to govern your speed. I doubt that I will be able to do 100 mph on my lake. I want a good slow down area and I think I am going to need about 100 meters more lake to do 100 mph. Neu motors (or the German motors) and a good quality esc are the way to go. My CC Barracuda 180 would still be going if I had driven the boat like a SAW boat but as you can see from the videos I was driving a boat with no water cooling and a big amp eating motor more like a circuit boat. For SAW runs you will not need the turn fin but again your small lake might make you run one if you need to turn the boat in a small space. I look forward to seeing how things go for you.
Paddy

[slimshady]

Once again Paddy thanks for the advice, I am now soooooo itching for my hull it is untrue – I think you are more than right – my ESC is pants but it’s all I have at the moment so when the hull arrives I will endeavour to get my current setup working knowing it’s not going to be ok and I need to get a better motor and ESC, the NUE you mention looks very good and I am tempted but at this stage I simply want to chuck it in the pond and fire it up to see what happens.

After that I will then be on a speed quest, unfortunately this is a narcotic I seem to be addicted to.

Also interesting you mention a 100m more lake for 100mph, what sort of ramp down distance would you need at high speed? (sorry a bit of an contentious question considering you need more space to achieve the speed)

Sorry I have so many questions and I have not received the hull yet, I will shut up now.

Paddy thank you once again for your input


Slim

[Xzessperated]

Once again Paddy thanks for the advice, I am now soooooo itching for my hull it is untrue – I think you are more than right – my ESC is pants but it’s all I have at the moment so when the hull arrives I will endeavour to get my current setup working knowing it’s not going to be ok and I need to get a better motor and ESC, the NUE you mention looks very good and I am tempted but at this stage I simply want to chuck it in the pond and fire it up to see what happens.

After that I will then be on a speed quest, unfortunately this is a narcotic I seem to be addicted to.

Also interesting you mention a 100m more lake for 100mph, what sort of ramp down distance would you need at high speed? (sorry a bit of an contentious question considering you need more space to achieve the speed)

Sorry I have so many questions and I have not received the hull yet, I will shut up now.

Paddy thank you once again for your input


Slim

Slim,
I know how you feel about just throwing it in the water as quick as you can to see it run. To help your current esc, start with the smallest prop you have and just do one run and then bring it in and check the heat on the esc, motor and Lipo. If you have an Eagle Tree Data Logger and know how to use it then use that to see what your motor is doing with the electricity it is using. Heat and amps will be your enemy so the small prop will help with those.

To do 100 mph I would like 400 to 500 meters. I only have a gps and that needs a little time at full speed to get a speed that is somewhere near accurate and then I would like at least 100 meters to slow down. I have a lot of ducks on my pond and they tend to have the brains of sheep and often spoil a run by getting in the way so I need some room to avoid them too. These motors get up to full speed quickly but we always need a little more room incase something goes wrong. My lake is 300 meters maximum and that is why I think I will have to go somewhere else when the speed gets faster.

[Xzessperated]

Guys it was correctly pointed out to me that the Neu stickers on my Mr. Krabs have incorrect spelling.
I could say that when we translate the word Neu into Tasmanian it becomes Nue but I would be lying. I often do not let the truth get in the way of a good story but this time I will just put out a contract on the sticker guy. @#$%#@ sticker guy you are dead meat.