New P Sport Hydro 2015!

[Shooter]

Ran her today (video below). The angled air bleeds seem to be working beautifully. Very stable and no signs of blow over whatsoever at 63mph, but that bouy paid the price. No damage other than the nose cone and some small paint chips. Having a very difficult time steering though (OBVIOUSLY!!!). It hooks drastically at the exit of the turn if you give it too much steering input. Too little, and it doesn't turn at all. Very very touchy. Any advice here? Talked to Terry about turn fin curve and the location with respect to CG, etc...???

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuqf-BGNr2s

[rightturnonly]

Runs real nice. Looks like another winner!! I'd run a few more times before messing to much with the steering since you haven't been out since what last October? but heck what do I know..see what some of these more experienced guys got to say...

[flraptor07]

Pete, It's running nice, I couldn't get a real good look at it but it looks like it could stand to be a touch looser. I don't know if that will effect the hooking problem or not. that bouy hit didn't sound good.... OUCH!!! we use pool noodles on our course, they just clip right off, no damage just go out and hook another one on. We've got them weighted so they stand strait up about 14" tall.

[detox]

I use the longer Speedmaster rudder on my 34" boat and Q Whiplash.

I wonder if your rudder shaft is flexing when pushing against rudder? Maybe a simple guide for the rudder shaft to ride in will help with flex.

[Shooter]

I like that pool noodle idea. We have a lot of 'bouy happy' people in our club.

Haven't solved the turning problem yet. The entrance of the turns are fine. It's on rails. Then, at about the apex, the steering gets more aggressive and it hooks on the exit of the turn. I'm using the mini-rudder.

Some thoughts were:

1. Turn fin flex (bends when going into the turn and unbends and returns to position at the apex and pulls harder)
2. CG vs. Turnfin position
3. Weight distribution
4. Turn fin curvature (too much?)

[T.S.Davis]

I think 2. A slotted fin could make it easy to play with to see if it makes a difference.

Is Jimmy going to post the video of you violating that buoy? That was a go fer broke moment.

[grsboats]

I have been using "dobblers" to minimize the flex of my turnfins with sucess on my riggers and sport hydros.....maybe you can try it.Gill

[grsboats]

looking from the outside on my twin fe rigger.Gill
BTW she's running great.Congrats

[flraptor07]

Box From Pete

Well I just got a box in the mail from Pete today and it's the hatch and nose for the P Hydro. VERY NICE stuff Pete! I know you have a lot of time in these and it shows. I'm really exited about getting started on this now And again VERY NICE job on the vacuum formed parts and thank you very much!! DSC03050.jpgDSC03051.jpgDSC03052.jpgDSC03053.jpg

[bozo586]

I think 2. A slotted fin could make it easy to play with to see if it makes a difference.

Is Jimmy going to post the video of you violating that buoy? That was a go fer broke moment.

tread#391 shows the crash lap--13 second lap---wait till it is setup right wow!

[Shooter]

looking from the outside on my twin fe rigger.Gill
BTW she's running great.Congrats

That fin looks beautiful.

Well I just got a box in the mail from Pete today and it's the hatch and nose for the P Hydro. VERY NICE stuff Pete! I know you have a lot of time in these and it shows. I'm really exited about getting started on this now And again VERY NICE job on the vacuum formed parts and thank you very much!! [ATTACH=CONFIG]131231[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]131232[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]131233[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]131234[/ATTACH]

Thanks. Now, you have to do the hard work! Cutting them out and fitting the upper/lower nose cone is a PIA. One thing we learned is to tape them together ON THE BOAT and make sure they are tight before gluing. No gaps!

We ran 6 races between the two of us. Nose cones stayed in place....and one of them was glued with a gap and was a loose fit! So far so good.

I think Terry could be right regarding CG. I also talked to a full size guy. Says our outer sponson may be leaning into the water towards the end of the turn, catching, and causing it to hook.

[flraptor07]

Pete, does the bottom fit inside the top or do they butt together? If the Sponson is causing the hook, that could be a easy fix by either rounding the outter edge a little more or putting a thin angled ride pad on the outside Sponson? Oh and what did you end up naming this boat?

[Shooter]

Hi Chris. The bottom slips inside the top. I use Plastruct Plastic Weld. I will add the procedure to the instructions. There is a certain way you want to cut it out as well. BTW - I didn't see your decals in the photo. Did you get those? Two windshield pcs and two scoop pcs.

We talked about names 'P-shooter', etc... but never ended up with one.

As for the steering, I failed to mention that this boat has 3° dihedral on each sponson ride pad. A lot of the more recent race boats (whip, PT, etc...) have a flat (0°) inside sponson to avoid cutting into the water during a turn. This is another possible root cause to add to the list, but I doubt it.

[detox]

They say that a hydro that is too tail heavy will want to spin out in turns. Hang your ready to run boat sideways at center of turn fin using strong finger. Hull should hang evenly or very slightly tail heavy. Think of hull being tied to turn fin by string and going round and round in circle on water.

Is your prop cavitating exiting turns? More tongue will help exit turns faster and get on plane from dead start faster.

Servo problem ?

[flraptor07]

Hi Chris. The bottom slips inside the top. I use Plastruct Plastic Weld. I will add the procedure to the instructions. There is a certain way you want to cut it out as well. BTW - I didn't see your decals in the photo. Did you get those? Two windshield pcs and two scoop pcs.

We talked about names 'P-shooter', etc... but never ended up with one.

As for the steering, I failed to mention that this boat has 3° dihedral on each sponson ride pad. A lot of the more recent race boats (whip, PT, etc...) have a flat (0°) inside sponson to avoid cutting into the water during a turn. This is another possible root cause to add to the list, but I doubt it.

I kinda figured that's the way the nose went together, yes I got the decals. That 3deg. on the inside sponson could possibly be causing it and that would be easy enough to test by putting a temp. flat pad on the inside.