More work done on the V5.5 late last night..
Tacked in the bottom. Added the last of the 1/8 x 1/8 spruce. Tacked in the air bleed faces.
Tacked in the bottom. Added the last of the 1/8 x 1/8 spruce. Tacked in the air bleed faces.
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I also added material to the fore/aft stringers near the air bleeds to stand proud 1/16". This allows it to meet flush with the bottom surface (red arrow below). The original did not have this.
I also sanded down the bottom surfaces in prep for the ride and recovery pads. Hopefully I will get these on today.Comment
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I know you guys are going to tell me to 'shut-up' about this, but I can't say enough about the pre-bend method that Ray turned me on to. There is virtually NO STRESS in the sponson when I clamp these down, thus no potential for twist or distortion.Comment
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All the bottom skins are tacked. I used these nifty little 'bean bag' formable weights from Mike Ball. They are heavy (2.5lb each), formable, and have a non-slip surface. These will work great for frame builds as well. Thanks Mike!Comment
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"Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
Billy GrahamComment
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Shooter said he uses a heat gun I think, I use boiling water an alcohol, towel dry an clamp to frame to shape as it driesComment
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I have used Downy and boiling water let it sit for an hour and clamp and dry in position before"Our society strives to avoid any possibility of offending anyone except God.
Billy GrahamComment
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Cool, lead shot and weather ballons. Thats a neat trick.
Weather balloons aren't much bigger than a regular balloon but, far thicker.
One could say I am a bit bent but, not busted yet
Originally posted by Shooter View Post
Nortavlag Bulc Comment
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Awesome build guys. Love the UL-1 cowl look. I have built 2 whiplash 20s with the UL-1 cowl. I have also built an 8255 scale hull shrunk down to 30 inches with UL-1 cowl for LSH.Comment
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plz show us some pic's of your boats, we may get some ideas ...Originally posted by dlhcon View PostComment
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I use a heat gun to make the bends. No soak. I hold the pcs above it and form to the desired shape. Seems to work pretty well and I haven't observed any adverse effects yet. Several boats built and painted.
BTW - for those also building this boat, I always add 0.5oz of epoxy to each tip prior to installing the deck. That is most of the reason that the frame piece that forms the outside of the sponson has such a thick wall (to hold the epoxy in). The epoxy helps balance the boat as well as stiffen the tips.Comment
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Medium CA glue and accelerator helped me to eliminate using weights and clamps. Build will go lots faster
It looks like all your joints line up with precision and LOTS easier to build for electric power than a Whiplash. The gas whip must be converted to electric (more work). You have a hot item here.
I cannot wait to see your hull finished.
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Everyone needs a stiff tip.Originally posted by Shooter View Post
Some people that build a whiplash don't understand that unless you add a little here and there it can flex while running and over time warp a bit.
Yes, it is a very nicely fitted boat. Nortavlag Bulc Comment
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I have placed 1/2 oz glass on the sponsons , out side skin, + 1 oz glass in side of the boat.
with 2 coats of west system epoxy, 3 coats on the sponsons. may be over kill , its just what I do.Comment
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D - Yep, the whole idea was to make a boat that was more 'FE friendly'. Hard to believe I have 2 years into this thing already.
Ray and his stiff tip - You dirty old man!!
Darryl - Woah! That's a lot of glass! Your boat might even survive one of OUR club races!!!! I glass mine as well, but only the joints, and only on the inside. A lot of different opinions here. Some people don't glass at all, and others glass the outside (like you....and Sean I think).Comment
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