1st mono build 29 inch

[okieman98]

should i but some c clamps on it and pull it down kinda tight are just let it float . fix en to cut it out.
thanks

Here in CA we have an Arts and Craft store call Michael's, they sell quality plywood . I imagine if you have a similar store they should sell something like that. These plywood is sold under the name of Revell of Revell Monogram brand, they are a bit less expensive that the Midwest brand. 3/32 or 1/8 will do.
I traced the shape of the transom on a piece of card board and trim little by little until I can fit that up right inside the hull flat against the inside transom, then simply traced the shape to the plywood board and cut it.
I "flooded" the transom with epoxy mixed with filler and slapped the doubler flat against the inner transom and placed the hull up right for it to cure. here is a shot of the wood doubler i made for my MHZ Lizard Xtreme. [ATTACH=CONFIG]122885[/ATTACH]
You don't need to mix your epoxy with filler, I was over doing it. Here is the filler: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK312&P=SM

[tlandauer]

I made sure that the wood doubler was a good fit. You need to fit it against the V bottom as much as possible because you are going to drill holes for the trim tab bracket, you don't want half of the screws to not have the benefit of the doubler---important. It is trial and error until it fits well.
I use those little epoxy measuring cups when I mix equal parts of resin and hardener, and before i started with anything, I used that measuring cup and poured water into the transom with the hull standing up to see how much of the epoxy is needed to "flood" the area without oozing out on top of the doubler. This is not necessary if your transome is flat and straight----somehow my MHZ Lizard Xtreme was not and therefore I needed the epoxy to build-up between the gap. Yes, if you can C-clamp it , by all means, otherwise you need to use some heavy object to weight it down, just be sure that you don't accidentally glue any of those things you use, lol.....

[olwarbirds]

LOL sounds like the voice of experience ... good info being given out here. ... Id go with speedmaster too and the stinger..... just tighten your clamps till you start seeing epoxy squeezing out the edges, I would put a piece of wood under the clamps to help spread out the pressure some... DJ

[okieman98]

ok will do still waiting on cf to come in and got to run to lowes and see if i can find epoxy that will work any good brand from the big box stores y'all suggest

[olwarbirds]

Jeff, I have never used any epoxies from lowes etc.. so I dont know any good names to suggest. Get some denatured alcohol. I always use hobby grade epoxy or west coast systems marine epoxy. If you have a boat supply dealer near you that would be a good source for it. I do like using JB weld for mounting stuff.

[okieman98]

ok found some z epoxy i will order setting me back again waiting for parts lol

[tlandauer]

ok found some z epoxy i will order setting me back again waiting for parts lol

Which kind?? For bonding or laying up CF cloths?
The Z-poxy 30 min. Epoxy is high strength and excellent for bonding, but it is TOO thick for laying up CF or FG cloths!! in order for the mixed epoxy to penetrate the cloths, the viscosity should be much lower, their Finishing epoxy ( yellowish color) has the right viscosity but still IMO cures quite fast ( 30min. pot life*) , you have to work pretty fast in order to beat the clock.
I have only used two brands, this ( Z-poxy) and West System epoxy which has different hardeners ( different length of pot life ) you can use depending the intended purpose of your job.
Not trying to confuse you nor discourage you from buying the Z-poxy, just want you to be aware of that, because some people actually use
denatured Alcohol to DILUTE the epoxy-----something I have never done. But perhaps they can chime in so you can use the thick Z-poxy 30 min. epoxy.
Just my $.02!

*When you mix the epoxy with hardener, it chemically begins its curing process and heats up in the little mixing cup real fast, more like 15 min. once it begins to thicken, forget about applying it.
I apologize if you already know all this, it is an annoying habit of mine to be long winded.

[tlandauer]

IMO Z-poxy 30 min. epoxy is great stuff. It is thick but very strong, I use the Finishing epoxy to do my lay up if the area is really small. For the whole hull I use West System 105 ( resin) and 206 (hardener).
My LHS carries the Z-poxy brand and some other brand, but I prefer the Z.

[olwarbirds]

I actually use the z-poxy finishing resin and thin it with denatured alcohol 50/50. I use this to flow into areas I cant physically reach.

[okieman98]

ok i was talking about the doubler on the transom , what the best to glue it to the boat when i but it in. i went and ordered z poxy off the net to do this with. waiting for it to come in. so i started laying up the hatch with cf and used the 3m spray adhesive to tack down the edges , tell u the truth was worried about all the angles in the hatch but unlike fiber glass i have used in the past, the cf layed in very nicely with out much trouble.

[tlandauer]

ok i was talking about the doubler on the transom , what the best to glue it to the boat when i but it in. i went and ordered z poxy off the net to do this with. waiting for it to come in. so i started laying up the hatch with cf and used the 3m spray adhesive to tack down the edges , tell u the truth was worried about all the angles in the hatch but unlike fiber glass i have used in the past, the cf layed in very nicely with out much trouble.

Z poxy 30min. would do great. That is for bonding and any slight gap would be easily filled with the thick gooey consistency!

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[okieman98]

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[okieman98]

i ordered a kit with the cf and resin all in it. what does every one use to cut the cf so u can get a clean edge so when i do inside , was going to lay resin to night but found out i have nothing to mix in are any brushes , so another trip to the hardware store. Hope the wife don't read this and wonder where the extra money went this month. i don't think the boat big enough for me to sleep in.well got to run and hurry up and but her sewing shears back in her box before she know i got them lol

[flraptor07]

i ordered a kit with the cf and resin all in it. what does every one use to cut the cf so u can get a clean edge so when i do inside , was going to lay resin to night but found out i have nothing to mix in are any brushes , so another trip to the hardware store. Hope the wife don't read this and wonder where the extra money went this month. i don't think the boat big enough for me to sleep in.well got to run and hurry up and but her sewing shears back in her box before she know i got them lol

You let it get about half setup and you can trim it right off with a Olfa knife or a Utility knife.

[olwarbirds]

She is going to wonder why her shears are rather dull now, Jeff my mouth is for a fee of course LOL ...eventually if you are going to be building alot of hulls, you will find it nice to purchase a pair of the shears made to cut CF. My buddy and I share one and its a nice tool. The cups you put ketchup in at mcdonalds etc... make good mixing cups, epoxy mixing doesnt need to be all that exact, just close. I have used those cheap sponge brushes numerous times with good results, but the actual epoxy brushes are nice to reach into the tight areas... DJ