Cheeta the Cheeeze Build

[rearwheelin]

Pleasure was mine ! It was a great opportunity to get on with some new ideas Look forward to seeing it in the water !

[riptide1]

Took her out for the maiden run today. Firstly, this is by far the best handling boat I've run. It tracks straight and goes into a tight turn at full throttle. The top speed on 5s was good, but still leaves much to desired. The boat rtr weights 11lbs even. The CG was set at 30% or 10.5" from the transom. The prop was an x447 2 blade. Temps came back pretty hot. I definitely need to change from the 6.5" Castle bullets, they came back at 180 degrees F. The motor was at 150 degrees and the batteries and ESC were at 130 degrees, so that leaves me no room to prop up without changing the setup. It seemed like the prop wasn't always hooking up. I don't know if I should raise or lower the strut.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxpXLq8aTpoZbk9LUE5sRkJLUzQ/edit?usp=sharing

[riptide1]

I added 8oz of foam to the frontIMG_20140705_234709_823.jpg

[riptide1]

to run my lightweight 4s lipos I'm going to add 10oz of lead to the transom, but I will still be dropping 10oz compared to the 5s lipos.
IMG_20140706_214126_171.jpgIMG_20140706_214721_945.jpgIMG_20140706_214508_493.jpgIMG_20140706_214915_201.jpg

[rearwheelin]

Took her out for the maiden run today. Firstly, this is by far the best handling boat I've run. It tracks straight and goes into a tight turn at full throttle.

Glad it did my job ! .... Minus the sponson mod

It looked very good in the vid for a maiden

I know exactly what hardware I will be running on my Team Believer that I will be building after the Titan now !

[kfxguy]

I wanted to say something earlier on in the thread but decided to keep my opinion to myself. I think you now know in the back of your mind why it's running hot like it is. That's not quite enough motor for that hull. The castle 6.5 connectors are excellent connectors and I use them on all of my stuff. My connectors never run hot but I haven't under motored and over taxed any of my power systems yet. That hull does good with a 1717 or maybe a neu 1527. A 1518 just isn't enough in my opinion and judging by the temps.

[keithbradley]

I watched the video.
Honestly, if you showed me that video (actually, even if I didn't even see it, but just heard the audio), I would assume that it's coming back with components that are hotter than you would like. Have you checked the data logs? I imagine it's pulling a lot of current, likely even much more in small spikes that you won't necessarily see in the logs.
There is excessive lift on the transom. Either your strut setting is causing this, or the hull has a hook toward the rear. If you can get this issue corrected it will run cooler, and you'll pick up a considerable amount of speed.

[riptide1]

Keith, here's the rear ride pad profile after the hull mod. I will check the strut angle. Do you think I should cut down the 6" rudder or that the large hardware is a problem, causing the lift? What CG does this hull like?
IMG_20140705_104736_329.jpg

I watched the video.
Honestly, if you showed me that video (actually, even if I didn't even see it, but just heard the audio), I would assume that it's coming back with components that are hotter than you would like. Have you checked the data logs? I imagine it's pulling a lot of current, likely even much more in small spikes that you won't necessarily see in the logs.
There is excessive lift on the transom. Either your strut setting is causing this, or the hull has a hook toward the rear. If you can get this issue corrected it will run cooler, and you'll pick up a considerable amount of speed.

[riptide1]

Keith, here's the rear ride pad profile after the hull mod. I will check the strut angle. Do you think I should cut down the 6" rudder or that the large hardware is a problem, causing the lift? What CG does this hull like?
IMG_20140705_104736_329.jpg

I watched the video.
Honestly, if you showed me that video (actually, even if I didn't even see it, but just heard the audio), I would assume that it's coming back with components that are hotter than you would like. Have you checked the data logs? I imagine it's pulling a lot of current, likely even much more in small spikes that you won't necessarily see in the logs.
There is excessive lift on the transom. Either your strut setting is causing this, or the hull has a hook toward the rear. If you can get this issue corrected it will run cooler, and you'll pick up a considerable amount of speed.

[riptide1]

I was looking at hull mod pics to try to figure out if the rear outside strakes look like mine. To me it looks like the whole rear after the last step is angled to cause hook or nose diving. While I'm studying this I noticed how much negative Tigueman has in stinger. I ran neutral so the next thing I will try is to give it 2 degrees of negative strut angle.

[Brushless55]

this thing should really scoot with that motor after you make a few adjustments!
can't wait to hear the results :)

[riptide1]

I adjusted the strut before this second run. In the pic you can see the slight negative adjustment. I think I was actually running positive because the transom isn't quite at a 90 degree angle to the running surface and that is what I was using as reference initially. With this change I experienced a huge difference in temps and runtime. Next run I have a shorter rudder to try, it's a 60/90 straight blade cut down significantly for SAW racing. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxp...it?usp=sharing
IMG_20140707_193504_066.jpgIMG_20140707_194945_705.jpg

[kfxguy]

when i used a short rudder on mine, it would randomly flip around if i tried to turn even just a little. hopefully you have better luck. Is the speed any better?

[Brushless55]

I adjusted the strut before this second run. In the pic you can see the slight negative adjustment. I think I was actually running positive because the transom isn't quite at a 90 degree angle to the running surface and that is what I was using as reference initially. With this change I experienced a huge difference in temps and runtime. Next run I have a shorter rudder to try, it's a 60/90 straight blade cut down significantly for SAW racing. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxp...it?usp=sharing
[ATTACH=CONFIG]117718[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]117719[/ATTACH]

Good job man!

[rearwheelin]

Needs a 4060 2040kvTP motor with a 447x 3 blade