Seaducer Model 60/80

[electric]

On to the next build. I have a 42" Seaducer that was purchased by a club member in 2008, but was never run. I plan to set it up to run "T" class with it. I will be using a Castle 2028, Castle HV 200amp, and I "think" I will run it 10s2p. I might run 8s2p as I run that same set up in a Backlash I have.

So, there are many issues to work out. Starting mostly with where do I fit the batteries! I have pondered cutting out the plywood rails between motor and the aft of the boat and placing the on either side of the drive shaft. I am open to ideas and suggestions.

What is the COG recommended for this boat? I read through the instructions that came with it and it talks specifically where to place all the hardware for a gas boat, but not what the COG should be.

Another odd thing is the shaft runs through the back of the hull for the strut with a nice gap for adjusting, but no water tube installed to keep the water from coming into the boat? Is there something I should know about the way the gas boat people set up these boats that would explain this to me?

I am heading out to the garage to pull the 2028 motor from the backlash and start to position that and the ESC and will take some more pics.

[electric]

More pics..

[srislash]

Another odd thing is the shaft runs through the back of the hull for the strut with a nice gap for adjusting, but no water tube installed to keep the water from coming into the boat? Is there something I should know about the way the gas boat people set up these boats that would explain this to me?

This is a strange thing but you know, gas boats are always moving. No choice unless a clutch is added. None of the gas guys that I run with run any sort of lid at all. Just plenty of foam. Mind you I have yet yo see one of them dump one over yet either.

[Doug Smock]

These may help get you moving.
The cg should be adjustable 28 to 30%.MAX Yes 2p if you want to heat race.
You'll find that it is nearly impossible to meet the cg requirements with the cells between the rails. The boat will not run properly with a forward cg.
Seaducers 007.jpgFeb testing 007.jpgDSCF5461.jpgDSCF5468.jpg

Good luck, these are great boats if set up properly!

[oscarel]

I am heading out to the garage to pull the 2028 motor from the backlash and start to position that and the ESC and will take some more pics.

Make sure that backlash is back together and ready for Sept! Gas boats rely on not stopping, lots of foam to keep floating when they do.

[electric]

Here are some more pics. Thanks for the CG feedback and pics. Looks like I am going to be cutting out most of the railing. The battery placement obviously will not work as they are sitting where the servo goes for the steering. The motor with esc does "drop in" pretty well. I think I can get it the motor and esc in place without too much work. Oscar the whole unit pulled out of the backlash easily. I can get it all back in there in an hour or so and have it prepped to race in September no problem. I just can't justify buying another motor and esc as little as I run these bigger boats.

For those of you who have not seen a castle 2028 that is a standard 540 size motor next to it.

[electric]

These may help get you moving.
The cg should be adjustable 28 to 30%.MAX Yes 2p if you want to heat race.
You'll find that it is nearly impossible to meet the cg requirements with the cells between the rails. The boat will not run properly with a forward cg.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]116093[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116094[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116095[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]116096[/ATTACH]

Good luck, these are great boats if set up properly!

I was studying your layouts and I noticed you are running 6s1p! You must have been pulling some serious amps in that boat for speed? Saw set up? Why not 8s or 10s? Just curious, since mine will be set up 10s2p for oval racing. Spent most of the afternoon cutting out a chunk of the rails to make room for the batteries. The demolition begins...

[Doug Smock]

There are two 2s packs in the boat under the deck just out of view.

This is what you're after although it's not a Seaducer.

DSCF5528.jpgDSCF5527.jpg

[Chilli]

You using Tygon for cooling line Doug?

[Doug Smock]

You using Tygon for cooling line Doug?

Yes sir. Another lesson I learned the hard way. LOL

[Brushless55]

This looks like a really cool build
I've seen one of these for sale and wondered how well do they run

[electric]

Had some more time today to work on the boat. I notched out the rails to make room for batteries. You will also see I bit the bullet and cut the stuffing tube out so I can put a new one in and get it positioned correctly in relation to the motor. Right now it's all pretty messy with the sanding going on. I am positioning things to get a feel how I can get it all set up and keep the cog back far enough. It looks like the batteries will all need to be towards the back to offset the weight of the motor and esc. This is pretty much how it looks when you are in demolition mode. Got to tear it apart before you build it up.

[electric]

more pics

[electric]

The work continues. Building out the water chamber for the stuffing tube so we can leave the strut on the back completely adjustable. I had some old fiberglass sheeting left over from another build and decided to use that to build out my chamber. I got it all glued in place last night with the exception of the piece at the end where the copper tube goes through. I also cut out a piece of wood that will go over the top of the flood chamber to provide a platform to hold the batteries. I am going to lay down some carbon fiber cloth I have to make it all look nicer as part of the build as well.

You can see a lot of dust in the hull still from the work done cutting everything out as I was just dry fitting everything when I took the picks.

[electric]

Now for the carbon fiber. I had some, so why not make it look better. This boat really did not need any as it is very strong already, but I like the way it looks and I have it, so what the heck. The servo tray is not done yet, I just stuck where it is going to sit so you can see how it looks together. I need to sand the edges and clean up the area where the servo slides through and then I will epoxy it into place as well. I also wrapped some carbon fiber around the water well just to ensure it is strong as the fiberglass I used was very thin.