37" FCR Daytona twin (first build help needed and appreciated)

[Alex Jones]

First off I'm Alex and new to fe boat building. I have ordered a bare Daytona hull from fcr. Looking too run 3s on a twin set up around 60mph for just cruising and 75+ for some SAW runs on 4s. All help in the building and set up with the boat is very welcome and appreciated.



-- ELECTRONICS --
-2x 2650kv 3674 leopards
-2x escs 240a swordfish+ or possibly a HV set

Alex

[bracka69]

For inlays, West systems 105 resin and 207 hardener sames to be the choice for most people.

[Jlov]

I just built this same boat. Here's the build thread should have some helpful stuff.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...uot-Twin-Build

[Alex Jones]

I just built this same boat. Here's the build thread should have some helpful stuff.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...uot-Twin-Build

Basing a lot of my boat off what you have done with yours. Wanting the same from my boat fast and 4-6s compatible. How is the boat coming I noticed it hasn't been updated lately?

[Alex Jones]

My hull is coming in tomorrow ordering my CF plate and fabric tonight. Want to order rudder, stingers, and props And drive line but still uncertain if what ive chose will work well with my chosen hull/electronics. Will take some pictures of the hull when I get off work.

[Apophis]

Hi Alex,

I also just built a Daytona, I can share what I would do if I were building another for sport running like you.

Stingers: 3/16 adjustable cat strut (110mm) Kintec racing has what you need in stock it looks like, $60 a pair. You will also need to order shims from Fightercat for these to get proper adjustment, they are $15 a pair.

Flex cables: Flex , Reverse

Rudder: I just changed out my rudder to this one, you can get it here Rudder Kintec has a 4" replacement blade with dual water pickups also. The rudder mounting area on the Daytona is about 24mmx45mm, so if you want to use something else make sure the transom footprint will work.

Props: Same that were recommended to me x442 L&R

Motor mounts: There are a couple guys here that could cut you some, or if you are making your own just make sure you use decent C/F plate not the cheap flimsy stuff.

Motors and esc's: I would go with TP power 4050's and prob use These they fit, had a pair in my hull. 2200kv is high for 6s, I know guys say it all the time. I am new also and from my experience I wouldn't run that setup on 6s very often and I would keep runs on 6s to 3-4 passes. The boat would be more than fun on 4s-5s and the 220's would be fine. I know those esc's are more $ but running on 6s you will be beyond the 220's limits, I believe (don't quote me) that 220 rating is for 5s.

I'm no pro builder, just one Daytona build under my belt and this is what "I" would do just to give you an idea. I'm sure others would do it differently

Shawn

[Alex Jones]

Hi Alex,

I also just built a Daytona, I can share what I would do if I were building another for sport running like you.

Stingers: 3/16 adjustable cat strut (110mm) Kintec racing has what you need in stock it looks like, $60 a pair. You will also need to order shims from Fightercat for these to get proper adjustment, they are $15 a pair.

Flex cables: Flex , Reverse

Rudder: I just changed out my rudder to this one, you can get it here Rudder Kintec has a 4" replacement blade with dual water pickups also. The rudder mounting area on the Daytona is about 24mmx45mm, so if you want to use something else make sure the transom footprint will work.

Props: Same that were recommended to me x442 L&R

Motor mounts: There are a couple guys here that could cut you some, or if you are making your own just make sure you use decent C/F plate not the cheap flimsy stuff.

Motors and esc's: I would go with TP power 4050's and prob use These they fit, had a pair in my hull. 2200kv is high for 6s, I know guys say it all the time. I am new also and from my experience I wouldn't run that setup on 6s very often and I would keep runs on 6s to 3-4 passes. The boat would be more than fun on 4s-5s and the 220's would be fine. I know those esc's are more $ but running on 6s you will be beyond the 220's limits, I believe (don't quote me) that 220 rating is for 5s.

I'm no pro builder, just one Daytona build under my belt and this is what "I" would do just to give you an idea. I'm sure others would do it differently

Shawn

Thanks Shawn you have cleared a lot of my questions up. Time to order me some parts!

Side note verified the hull is at my house... Come on 4:30!!!!!

[Apophis]

Hey Alex,

I had said TP because I like mine and was going from experience, plus they are on sale right now on their site 4050's are plenty to push this hull, but Leo 4082's would also do the job. Yes the Daytona sits low in the water on her rear, but once up on plane it is fine. It's not the best handling boat and can spin on slow hard turns but once you are used to her limits it's a fun boat, and fast in the straights.

I said go with bigger esc's just so you weren't at their limits, some headroom is always good. Honestly tho if you go 2200kv I would start on 4s then go up to 5s. Maybe get the 220 pro+ so you could see data on your runs. If you are going to experiment with 6s I would get higher rated esc's (higher than 6s) like those HV's I linked. Also if you stayed with 5s max you could fit batteries with a little more capacity for a little more run time, it's a tight fit for batteries in the sponsons, had to cut some of the hatch lip off mine. Make sure you get decent batteries also, worth the money up front instead of buying cheap then rebuying later.

Here is a link to a discussion I had about 6s 2200kv last year on kbb, scroll down and read Keith's response, worth the read for us new guys 6s 2200kv

Shawn

[Apophis]

Ahh, I see you edited your original post to 4s and 2000kv, that's better. You might want to get the 220 pro+ so you can have logging.

[Alex Jones]

[Alex Jones]

I have being editing my post Shawn and will continue until I decide what I want. 3s2p(22k rpm) maybe 4s2s for saw runs(29k rpm) with a 2000kv motor. Just now noticed those TP motors are vented not sure I'm liking that being that its a boat lol. Even though I'll be doing my very best to seal the hatch in hull. The motors are still up in the air. As far as logging stuff I'm not to concerned for my first build trying too keep a reasonable budget. Maybe next build will be pure race in mind. Know anyone willing to make my cf motor mounts to fit the Daytona?

[flraptor07]

I have being editing my post Shawn and will continue until I decide what I want. 3s2p(22k rpm) maybe 4s2s for saw runs(29k rpm) with a 2000kv motor. Just now noticed those TP motors are vented not sure I'm liking that being that its a boat lol. Even though I'll be doing my very best to seal the hatch in hull. The motors are still up in the air. As far as logging stuff I'm not to concerned for my first build trying too keep a reasonable budget. Maybe next build will be pure race in mind. Know anyone willing to make my cf motor mounts to fit the Daytona?

Ask and ye shall recieve, http://www.customcfparts.com/ He's on the forum here as nata2run does beautiful work!

[flraptor07]

All the CF stuff in my Cheetah is from Kent (nata2run) http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...-Cheetah-Build

[Alex Jones]

Thanks raptor for bringing that to my attention so between him a kbb to making the mounts and trays who ever can get the best price gets the money

[Alex Jones]

As far as the replacement dual pick up rudders on kinetics website I see they have the 5in and the replacement for Genesis what's the length on this rudder? And its compatible with
the push/pull rudder that apophis suggested?
Motors still deciding which brand still leaning towards leopards.