Looks like it was running great until the mishap. If your transom is thick and you can't use a regular boot setup you could drill and epoxy in a piece of brass tube with the boot on the inside or outside. I am finding all the pretty machined aluminum ones I bought for putting the boot inside and leaving a nice machined ring on the outside are junk to me for the same reason your having. I'm sure I am stating the obvious and likely the villain has its own problems doing what I mentioned above. Good luck with it!
working over my mean machine ....
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Thanks FellaOriginally posted by Fella1340 View PostLooks like it was running great until the mishap. If your transom is thick and you can't use a regular boot setup you could drill and epoxy in a piece of brass tube with the boot on the inside or outside. I am finding all the pretty machined aluminum ones I bought for putting the boot inside and leaving a nice machined ring on the outside are junk to me for the same reason your having. I'm sure I am stating the obvious and likely the villain has its own problems doing what I mentioned above. Good luck with it!
,
I can report that the ESC is ok now, it was just wet again
. Even though I was trying to get a feel for it, she was running pretty good. Thanks for the idea
. I've got some villain drive tubes that should do nicely. I can cut them down & shellac them in. The front motor support ring I ca'd in place is rock solid too 
I used shellac to seal the new drive tubes in my villain & upgraded it to villain ex servo boots, now its watertight
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Alright
I pulled the steering linkage & drilled out the hole to 5/16". I cut the 5/16 tube to length & sealed the hull with shellac. I reinstalled the linkage & used zip ties to seal the boot ...
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Hey Jim, thanks buddy. I was going to warn you awhile back about getting these Skywing ESC's wet. They don't like it. But you have found that. But when you said "wet again" I thought I should test mine out(been in 'that' box for months). It seems to work fine. Thanks. I now have a spare.Originally posted by gsbuickman View PostThanks Fella
,
I can report that the ESC is ok now, it was just wet again . Even though I was trying to get a feel for it, she was running pretty good. Thanks for the idea
. I've got some villain drive tubes that should do nicely. I can cut them down & shellac them in. The front motor support ring I ca'd in place is rock solid too
I used shellac to seal the new drive tubes in my villain & upgraded it to villain ex servo boots, now its watertight
Oops, guess it is not this boat with one of those ESC's. You have one in one of the others Jim?
mmmm
You got me checking things anyway
.
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Hiya ShawnOriginally posted by srislash View PostHey Jim, thanks buddy. I was going to warn you awhile back about getting these Skywing ESC's wet. They don't like it. But you have found that. But when you said "wet again" I thought I should test mine out(been in 'that' box for months). It seems to work fine. Thanks. I now have a spare.
Oops, guess it is not this boat with one of those ESC's. You have one in one of the others Jim?
mmmm
You got me checking things anyway
.
Thanks for dropping in my friend
. Here's my 2nd test run video on 5s with the new long rudder...
I passed on the junk skywing esc's, because the douche selling them is a price gouger & I am not supporting him. I bought a nice 200A Mystery (suppo) water cooled boat ESC with 5A bec.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mystery-RC-2...item461262aa44
I pulled the thermal tape from under the cooling block & replaced it with thermal paste. Then I treated it to a plasti-dip job. Apparently it still needs work
....
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Looks good! Just a thought:
Since your rudder linkage boot is not shaped like a bellows, if the linkage is sliding in the small end with the zip tie then there is a small chance that water will still find its way into the hull, the bellows boot will extend and contract with the linkage. I may be wrong, but just a heads up.
Would love to see you hold full throttle on your next vid.
I can see the longer rudder is turning the boat on a dime!
Too many boats, not enough time...


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They are the same ESC Jim, water proofing is what I have to do to mine next. I hear they are fine once you get past the programming and if you never get a drip of water on them.Originally posted by gsbuickman View PostHiya Shawn
Thanks for dropping in my friend
. Here's my 2nd test run video on 5s with the new long rudder...
I passed on the junk skywing esc's, because the douche selling them is a price gouger & I am not supporting him. I bought a nice 200A Mystery (suppo) water cooled boat ESC with 5A bec.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mystery-RC-2...item461262aa44
I pulled the thermal tape from under the cooling block & replaced it with thermal paste. Then I treated it to a plasti-dip job. Apparently it still needs work
....
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Its all good Tim, this boot is soft & flexible and expands and contracts with the servo throw. Top speed wasn't the focus of this run. I was testing the new rudder & turning capability to see if I was still going to be spinning out, now it hooks up real good. Next time around I'll setup some speed runs for yaOriginally posted by tlandauer View Post
Looks good! Just a thought:
Since your rudder linkage boot is not shaped like a bellows, if the linkage is sliding in the small end with the zip tie then there is a small chance that water will still find its way into the hull, the bellows boot will extend and contract with the linkage. I may be wrong, but just a heads up.
Would love to see you hold full throttle on your next vid.
I can see the longer rudder is turning the boat on a dime!
.
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From what I gather from the skywing thread I started; the skywing esc's are cheap knockoffs made with old discontinued FETs, transistors, caps etc. and don't hold up well. What kind of experience have you had with them ?.Originally posted by srislash View PostThey are the same ESC Jim, water proofing is what I have to do to mine next. I hear they are fine once you get past the programming and if you never get a drip of water on them.
As far a the programming on my 200A suppo, it took a bit, but I got it set for 5s lipo but I still time runs. I don't let packs run into the lvc, thats asking for bad juju....
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Friday the 13th strikes again
I decided to run up to Settlers park today when I got a chance, because tomorrow is free fishing day and there's no way in hell I'm getting anywhere near the water
It's a cool 65° out & I decided to start things off by running my Villain on 4s Eben though the water is teal low. This is bad because of the rocks that ring this pond. I should have known better, right of the get go I lose a prop so that means the villain is done for the day
I decide to try my luck with my mm on 4s even though the ESC is acting a Lil' strange after getting wet on my first 2 runs out with it. she's running great, handling nice and cornering like its on rails with that extra long rudder, until it grabs rock and slings it right into the bank
The boat itself is alright, but it snapped the rudder blade off, part of it is still in the mount as well as snapping an ear off the 645mg servo. It also snapped a battery lead, part of it is still in the soldered connector & I think it smoked the 200A ESC. This is only the 3rd run on it too
.... altogther a somewhat expensive day.....
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some of the local wildlife that was there today ....Last edited by gsbuickman; 06-14-2014, 11:44 PM.
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Hello everybody,
,
I know I've kinda put my boats on the back burner for now in favor of spending most of my time in the saddle for ridin' season w/ my new 1100 V-Star Classic
.....
Even though I took some time and got a little work done on the mean machine and got her ready to see the water again. I started with making a new rudder blade from a repurposed tool steel hot saw wrench. The l a st rudder blade tha t snapped on Fri the 13th was aluminum & hung 3," below the transom. the new blade is tool steel and hangs 3 1/2" below the transom. Its on the swing away bracket w/ an m2 bolt to act as a shear pin. after a couple hours of grinding it has a nice blade on the leading edge and I also beveled the bottom edge as well.
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I also picked up a new suppo 125A plane ESC to repower the 3674 2,350kv mill with. I was able to pop the cooling fins off & install the water cooling block off the previous 200A mystery (suppo) ESC w/o removing or changing the factory shrink at all
This time I anchored cooling block and wrapped up the ESC, and sealed the ends as neatly as I could with hvac alumatape. Then I gave it a liberal douching of plasti-dip to seal her all up. I think it turned out pretty well ,,;
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Didn't you see the other thread? 
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