working over my mean machine ....
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Looks like it was running great until the mishap. If your transom is thick and you can't use a regular boot setup you could drill and epoxy in a piece of brass tube with the boot on the inside or outside. I am finding all the pretty machined aluminum ones I bought for putting the boot inside and leaving a nice machined ring on the outside are junk to me for the same reason your having. I'm sure I am stating the obvious and likely the villain has its own problems doing what I mentioned above. Good luck with it!
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5s test run video #2, pics
more pics
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5s test run video #2
Here's my 5s test run video #2 for all you good lil' boys & girls
I was taking it a lil' easy trying to get a feel for how the new rudder handled, as well as how well it turned at speed with where i had the steering speed set. I initally stopped it for a steerinf adjustment because it was slightly pulling to the left, after that it run straight and true. the steering speed was a bit slow and wasn't turning tight enough, although it was stuck to the water like it was on rails ie: not 1 spinout
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i squeezed just past 3/4 throttle and she jumped outta the water, the prop unloaded and free spun & that was all she wrote after that
. I tossed out the tennis ball and pulled it in first throw and got a look inside. everything looks good but it had about 2 cups of water in it & everything was wet, esc included even though i plasti-dipped it. it worked after i got it home, but it acted like it had water inside it so i'll look at it tomorrow.
its still the same setup with the strut an 1/8" above the sponson's. not bad for run #2. i guess i'll start taping it cause the neoprene seal isnt cutting it, not to mention the rear hull is 5/8" thick so i cant get a seal where the rudder linkage rod passes thru the hull...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NcU0...ature=youtu.be
heres a few pics of the residents and escapees from sirslashes neck of the woods....Last edited by gsbuickman; 06-05-2014, 01:08 AM.
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Originally posted by Brushless55 View PostLooks much much better
I would say turn down your steering rate on your rudder and it should tame down your flipping issuesOriginally posted by gsbuickman View PostI generally agree with this and I can turn down my servo speeds on my m11 radio, however due to range issues I went back to my tactic ttx-240 so there goes that idea
....Originally posted by Brushless55 View Postgenerally its the ST.RATE knob on the tactic radio.. not servo speed
EPAExactly! and that's what I keep saying..................Originally posted by gsbuickman View PostI will test it tonight, but that use to limit the amount of travel the servo throws, but not the speed......
turn down the rate / throw of the rudder servo
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I will test it tonight, but that use to limit the amount of travel the servo throws, but not the speed......Originally posted by Brushless55 View Postgenerally its the ST.RATE knob on the tactic radio.. not servo speed
EPA
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On my MM, from the bottom of the right sponson to the bottom of my rudder is 2 7/8". Seems long but it works great. Speedmaster 21 rudder. You can also adjust the servo throw, so it wont turn so sharp.
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generally its the ST.RATE knob on the tactic radio.. not servo speedOriginally posted by gsbuickman View PostI generally agree with this and I can turn down my servo speeds on my m11 radio, however due to range issues I went back to my tactic ttx-240 so there goes that idea
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EPA
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new rudder & h20 pick up project ...
I just got the new setup on my meanie' tied up last night with a long rudder so she'll quit spinning out & handle better.
After some cutting and grinding with my dremel & my angle grinder, the marine specialties blade I had from an old gas hydro setup now hangs 2 15/16" below the sponsons. Now she should stay stuck to the water .....
Even though it took a couple hours of cutting and grinding & I had to drill the rudder mount and hang a cf tube h20 pick up on it I think it turned out pretty damn nice.
BTW, the boat is sitting on the stand & the rudder is even with the floor.....
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I generally agree with this and I can turn down my servo speeds on my m11 radio, however due to range issues I went back to my tactic ttx-240 so there goes that ideaOriginally posted by Brushless55 View PostLooks much much better
I would say turn down your steering rate on your rudder and it should tame down your flipping issues
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Simply because the mean machine needs it. Its pretty well known that it needs a long rudder to corner well. I know from experience, and from the others on this forum.
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OK but why? I've used this rudder on quite a few boats and I usually cut it to length. I know this is totally different but when I use this rudder on a P Hydro I cut it up to about 1/4" below the water pick up hole and it works beautiful. On my Cheetah I used this rudder with the dual pick up blade. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80057 Here's how it corners https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CWlC...ature=youtu.beOriginally posted by Rumdog View Posthttp://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ros-spdr-001
Full length. This is the rudder you want
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working over my mean machine ....
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ros-spdr-001
Full length. This is the rudder you want
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I'm not trying to be a smartass, He said he's got a 4 1/4" rudder on it now, how much longer does it need to be?Originally posted by Rumdog View PostUmmmm... It's a combination if both. He most definitely DOES need a longer rudder.
Last edited by flraptor07; 05-27-2014, 08:40 AM.
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Ummmm... It's a combination if both. He most definitely DOES need a longer rudder.
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Brushless is right! a longer rudder is not the answer, in fact it will probably make it worse because it will turn that much quicker..Originally posted by Brushless55 View PostLooks much much better
I would say turn down your steering rate on your rudder and it should tame down your flipping issues
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