Simon's Canard.

[Simon.O.]

That is an interesting boat, the picture where you stole your wifes sewing pins to hold things in place kinda looks like a voo doo doll LOL

Those pins are mine !! and mine only !!! ............................
That is one of the build methods that I use, once they are removed and the varnish is layed on the holes look like little dark dots so I try to get some sort of symmetry when I use them.

I have lowered the strut even further and this thing just goes quicker each time out.
It is well on par with the hydro and would give the rigger a fright on a good day.

I am very interested to see what ED comes up with.

[peells]

OK I said that all in fun so I hope no hard feelings, I use masking tape when I build to hold things in place or my fingers when using balsa it usually sticks right now so getting on the fingers also sticks right now I have left finger prints all over stuff when I first started building.

[Simon.O.]

Peter, all is good. I was taking the p... with my comment over the pins. Sometimes the smiley faces don't do the expression that I meant. All cool here.

Without going to far off topic into build techniques I too sometimes do the hold it in fingers for a few minutes. other methods include lead weights, masking tape, string, pins, spring clamps, screw clamps.....hope, as in I hope that holds

I am on duty now for the next few days so there will be no boat runs til later in the week.
I am leaning towarsd a fm or2.4G system for my boats now as I am still having serious glitch problems at distance. I nearly lost the rigger on Saturday.

Have fun and take care out there.

[ED66677]

I've got a question guys, has any of you ever try a different way to build a boat?
I remember when I was young, when I started with RC planes, a german manufacturer inovate with something I'd like to try...
The fuselage and the sponsons would be made of light weight foam, shaped as desire, then covered with thin plywood (or carbon...), the idea here is to avoid 70% of the wood that would be necessary in a traditionnal way to build but the "skin" would be thinner than usual??? Modern RC planes wings are made like this, very resistant!

[Stealth Assassin]

I've got a question guys, has any of you ever try a different way to build a boat?
I remember when I was young, when I started with RC planes, a german manufacturer inovate with something I'd like to try...
The fuselage and the sponsons would be made of light weight foam, shaped as desire, then covered with thin plywood (or carbon...), the idea here is to avoid 70% of the wood that would be necessary in a traditionnal way to build but the "skin" would be thinner than usual??? Modern RC planes wings are made like this, very resistant!

People do It all the time In boat building. Rigger sponsons tunnel hulls etc. WOF, wood over foam.

D

[ED66677]

ok then I'll start this way

[peells]

I have seen real airplanes with Styrofoam wings covered with a polymer laminate this type of construction was specifically designed to be super light and incredibly strong, and some of the guys building boats here are using foam covered with epoxy!! I am going to try it on a hatch I am currently constructing (sanding and shaping a balsa block takes too long. Boy did I jump on this late, I see you guys already have dealt with the situation rather well

[ED66677]

that's how "we" do scale airplanes, commonly people would shape (using airfoil pattern and hot wire) the wing and cover it with 1mm samba wood, but experts, and especialy for gliders, use fiberglass/epoxy covering, I've done myself several wood covered wings, and one flying wing was fiberglass/epoxy, that was amazing!
if the part you're trying to shape is a flat-curved surface, then the fiberglass/epoxy can be applyied onto a 1mm thick plastic sheet and then pressed against the foam block, expert would use a vaccum bag to keep the plastic sheet/fiberglass/epoxy in place with the foam block, once cured, the plastic sheet is removed, if it is not flat-curved, let's say a ball for example, then you need to use some cellophane film instead of plastic sheet.

[ED66677]

here it goes...
just a preview http://pagesperso-orange.fr/pleindet...n's_canard.pdf

[Simon.O.]

ED that looks great so far.
I realised that there are 2 dimensions that I did not give you. The CoB and the distance from the back of the front step to the back of the rears.
I'll get these for you tonight. On the plan you have it appears the front step is a little long and too far back. That is my fault as I did not send you ALL the measurements that you need.
You have done a fantastic job so far.
I think it would be easier to leve the plans without dimensions and use it as a proportional guide.
It is your plan now so that is only a suggestion.
I am keen to help.

[Dr. Jet]

I think it would be easier to leve the plans without dimensions and use it as a proportional guide.

Simon,

Such are the joys of computer-aided drafting. Written dimensions will get you the part as designed, but with the touch of a button, you can re-scale it to any size. And if the written dimensions are associative, they will automatically change with the scale.

I wonder if I could do a 400 mm one with the motor inside the front step, and run a straight shaft out of the back of the step? That would get the shaft flatter, and the motor lower. Where did you balance this hull? If the front sponson is smaller, or the balance is way off, this may not work.

[Simon.O.]

Good news on the CAD thing !!
A 400mm version should be doable, however I have my doubts about a straight shaft.
I have used straight shafts in a few of my prototype hulls (hydros) so have a little experience with them.
For this Canard I have the shaft set near flat with a little up at the rear, is that called neg or pos angle?
Anyway it would be easy enough to try one with a ss and see what happens, so long as you build the hull with the ability to move the motor back and fit a flex/wire later. Or just build another hull, I have done that before.
The CoB is well back and I'll get those dimensions up tonight as I am at the station today and the boat is at home.

I want to see some more Canards and it looks like there is a fair bit of enthusiasm here for that to happen.

[ED66677]

thanks Simon, I know I was missing some dimension, but looking at the pictures you posted earlier, helped me out to get the proportions, the most important being general size/proportion and contact surface angle/area!
Now looking at it in detail make me realize I'm completely off!!! You're right, the back of the front step is far too much in the back!!! How much then?

[Dr. Jet]

A 400mm version should be doable, however I have my doubts about a straight shaft.

That is exactly what I thought before I built the little BBY hydro with a straight shaft. To my surprise, it worked well for me and could be tuned with battery placement.

Since a canard has the prop so much closer to the main sponsons, prop angle may be more critical Prop depth would probably be the same with either a SS or a flex. I may try decreasing the AOA of the wing to counteract extra lift at the prop.

I just like playing around with these straight shafts because they are simple, cheap, and efficient.

[ED66677]

updated : front step moved forward

for those who want it at a particular size, I can scale it, and make one pdf per page at 1:1 scale, just need to know the size of the paper you will print it on so that you only have to attach pages together edge to edge!