Matts Titan 40

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  • Fluid
    Fast and Furious
    • Apr 2007
    • 7990

    #16
    It may. In a turn it will exert a righting force, which is usually not what you want with a deep vee. You want the hull to lay over and hook up with the turn fin - the skeg might prevent that. I'd suggest trying it as is, but bring a hacksaw and a file to the pond with you.



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    • Doug Smock
      Moderator
      • Apr 2007
      • 5264

      #17
      +1 on the hacksaw and file.
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      • ray schrauwen
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Apr 2007
        • 9438

        #18
        Hey man, thanks, cool idea!!


        Originally posted by runzwithsizorz View Post
        I know of several people that use struts on mono's. They also allow far greater up, and down adjustments than a stinger, lol, unless ------

        [ATTACH=CONFIG]111156[/ATTACH]
        Nortavlag Bulc

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        • ray schrauwen
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Apr 2007
          • 9438

          #19
          Cut off small pieces at a time as a little skeg might work better than too much or none.
          Nortavlag Bulc

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          • Mattwarner
            Senior Member
            • Aug 2011
            • 487

            #20
            got a bit done today as the kids were at my inlaws:

            hull pass-throughs done for the water lines and servo rod/bellows



            pic with the everything mounted, ive sealed all the fittings with silicone so just need to tub test to make sure everything is water tight



            motor mount tacked into place and cut some carbon plate to size for the lipos, servos and rx to sit on this allows me to adjust the COG from 9.5-10.5" i just need to put some cut outs for the velcro straps to run and then decide whether to epoxy or aquarium seal it in place.

            *the fact the weave matches up is a total fluke but looks nice!



            providing theres no leaks i will get the motor mount epoxied into place and make a mount for the esc to stand up on its side.

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            • Mattwarner
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2011
              • 487

              #21
              nearly finished now, just the water outlets and rx to mount.

              subhatch made with 2mm clear acrylic, ive had good success with foam seals but can also tape over the top to ensure its watertight



              esc is out of the way and mounted vertically although I later thought whether this will cause problems with the cooling? this will only be a very mild setup and the esc should have plenty of headroom



              I used sealant/adhesive to mount the tray, ive not used this before but tried it first on some scraps and seemed to stick well whilst allowing some give/flex.

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              • lenny
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Sep 2010
                • 4297

                #22
                Looking very nice,
                Have you checked over that esc good ?
                Because they were having some problems with them at one time,
                Leaking some water and Doing some bad things from that.
                ? ONLY IF THEY WORK

                My youtube videos.http://www.youtube.com/user/61manx?feature=mhee

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                • Mattwarner
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2011
                  • 487

                  #23
                  Ive not taken the shrink wrap off, however i purchased from a forum member i trust and has run it a few times and ive fired it up on the bench and all works ok. This is a 300a 6s which ive not seen before? ive had a 300a 16s FC ESC which i know had a few problems although mine ran great.

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                  • Mattwarner
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2011
                    • 487

                    #24
                    sorry for not updating this post in a while, i finished the build a while back and have run it 4 times now and shes running great super stable and great in the turns after playing about the cog and adding a bit of weight as iam only running 6s1p and its surprisingly light.

                    The skeg has been removed although i didnt notice any bad handling issues with it on but figured that it probably was just adding drag if nothing else, the esc has been faultless (touch wood!) and the only issue has been a crappy chinese collet which kept letting go so has been ditched for an Aeromarine 2 piece which is much better.

                    Having run it a few times and cleaned off afterwards i noticed some patches appeared which seem to be rough patches on the surface of the gelcoat? any ideas?





                    I decided to wetsand it and have put a few light coats of Upol clear and a thick wet coat which has come out great but wonder whether i should wet sand again and add more coats or just leave it?

                    pics after wetsanding

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