Matts Titan 40

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  • Mattwarner
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2011
    • 487

    #1

    Matts Titan 40

    Time for a new build for me and managed to stubble across this hull in my LHS which i snapped up, hoping this will handle well in rougher water and i am aiming for 50mph.

    setup will be as follows:
    4092 1300kv to run on 6S
    FC 300a 6s esc
    Flooded stuffing tube

    Some pics of the bare hull





    There was a small amount of flex but overall the quality was much better than ive had from chinese cf cat hulls in the past however decided to reinforce anyway including the transom over the ply.

    scuffed up ready for inlay



    all done (still wet here)



    transom hardware mounted (loosely), i am a bit worried the carbon turn fins are too small at 65mm however this is for sport running only so i will just try it and see.



    motor mount came anodised orange and i am going for a clean simple look some oven cleaner and elbow grease got them stripped and polished up heres a pic after the first round of polish.

  • Mattwarner
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2011
    • 487

    #2
    This is how i wanted it set out with the motor up front due to the flooded tube, and cells mounted on a carbon plate on top of it but i cant get it to balance right, any suggestions??

    Comment

    • martin
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Aug 2010
      • 2869

      #3
      I think with batteries either behind the motor or in front proves quite difficult on cg adjustment as theirs not much room for movement of the batteries, I nearly always go with batteries either side of the motor. So theirs plenty of movement to get the cg correct, I understand though wanting to get the cg lower down & the battery weight into the centre of the boat.

      Comment

      • sampit
        Senior Member
        • Jul 2009
        • 447

        #4
        I would say the same as Martin Matt, bring the motor back and run the packs either side of the motor, just to be safe with the COG
        or run the motor at the rear.had the same problem on my Rico 31" the T600 helped me out being a lighter motor. sure fluid will help you with this setup.
        you have mastered the carbon lining looks great.
        Last edited by sampit; 01-23-2014, 08:56 AM.
        FC Cheetah TP4092 1600KV Dinogy 6s2p,Etti Envoy WE 3s, Rico Mono 31" T600 1400kv Dinogy 5100mAh 65c 6s1p
        Popeye Hydro T600 1400kv 6s1p

        Comment

        • Mattwarner
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2011
          • 487

          #5
          Originally posted by sampit View Post
          I would say the same as Martin Matt, bring the motor back and run the packs either side of the motor, just to be safe with the COG
          or run the motor at the rear.had the same problem on my Rico 31" the T600 helped me out being a lighter motor. sure fluid will help you with this setup.
          you have mastered the carbon lining looks great.
          Thanks Sam, hoping Jay will chime in as i know hes had lots of experience with this type of hull.

          Ive just ordered some clear acrylic to make a sub hatch as taping this thing is going to be really tricky, iam either going to have the sub hatch fit inside the opening so that i can tape round the outside or most likely use foam round the opening and hatch bolts to hold it down.

          Comment

          • Fluid
            Fast and Furious
            • Apr 2007
            • 7990

            #6
            Most of us have placed the motor to the rear with the packs between the rails ahead of the motor. This allows for relatively short power wires and keeps the build from spreading out and resembling a bowl of spaghetti. I like to put the packs between the rails in most of my builds so I can use nylon straps to hold the packs down. This really helps when you flip the boat since the packs don't move and un-plug themselves. Also keep internal damage to a minimum. We've had no problems with the CG, the packs can be slid fore and aft several inches.

            I think we all just tape down the factory hatch with hockey tape. Just takes a bit of care around the transom. If you have too much overhang then a sub-hatch makes a lot of sense. Do not rely on foam for a water seal.



            .
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            Comment

            • Mattwarner
              Senior Member
              • Aug 2011
              • 487

              #7
              Thanks for everyone's input I am going to take your advuce and make up some battery trays either side of the motor and Velcro tie them down, I am limited to how far back the motor goes due to the flooded stuffing tube but should work out ok.

              Comment

              • Brushless55
                Creator
                • Oct 2008
                • 9479

                #8
                Great find on this CF hull !!
                .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                Comment

                • Mattwarner
                  Senior Member
                  • Aug 2011
                  • 487

                  #9
                  Got a bit more done over the weekend

                  Wet well drilled and mocked up

                  Comment

                  • Mattwarner
                    Senior Member
                    • Aug 2011
                    • 487

                    #10
                    I've used carbon tube for the wet well 14mm ID and before anyone comments the transom fixings will be cut down!

                    Comment

                    • photohoward1
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Mar 2009
                      • 1629

                      #11
                      Why that strut? I have never seen that used on a mono?

                      Originally posted by Mattwarner View Post
                      Got a bit more done over the weekend

                      Wet well drilled and mocked up

                      Comment

                      • Mattwarner
                        Senior Member
                        • Aug 2011
                        • 487

                        #12
                        Good question I had it spare in my box o' bits hopefully it will work ok on a mono but agree its made for a cat

                        Comment

                        • runzwithsizorz
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2009
                          • 856

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Mattwarner View Post
                          Good question I had it spare in my box o' bits hopefully it will work ok on a mono but agree its made for a cat
                          I know of several people that use struts on mono's. They also allow far greater up, and down adjustments than a stinger, lol, unless ------

                          HPNX0434.JPG
                          Last edited by runzwithsizorz; 01-28-2014, 12:30 PM.

                          Comment

                          • Fluid
                            Fast and Furious
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 7990

                            #14
                            I'm sure he's talking about the skeg on that particular strut. Struts are still common on mono builds.


                            .
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                            Comment

                            • Mattwarner
                              Senior Member
                              • Aug 2011
                              • 487

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Fluid View Post
                              I'm sure he's talking about the skeg on that particular strut. Struts are still common on mono builds.


                              .
                              Do you think the skeg will cause any issues?

                              Comment

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