Fightercat CF Cheetah Big Single build ~

[kfxguy]

Are you putting any epoxy in the tips? 2 part foam up front?

[mekzoid]

There is coremat all in the front so no need for epoxy. Wont be doing 2 part as I wont lose the boat anyway, I use the boats in a large wading pool about 200 meters long and its only 2 foot deep max. I also have a fear that if a seem splits or something cracks, the 2 part will expand as it always does and make it near impossible to fix the hull

[Rocstar]

Yeah I have no idea how KBB does his 300s, He must use tunnel for the wires as the logo is always facing upright. Its going to be quite heavy by the time its finished thats for sure. I am just finishing the rudder assembly today and I will upload more pictures. Thanks for posting fellas

Looking good so far...One way to mount the SF300 face up, is to mount it on a plate with the wires running out the bottom. However it doesn't look like you have much room and it's more for aesthetics.

3.jpg2.jpg

[Fella1340]

The sf 300 is perfect for a twin, it doesn't lend itself well to a single. Having it mounted in the side makes it tough to reach batteries on other side of the motor. In front of the motor and that's more real estate gone. It's a pain in the butt!

[Rocstar]

The sf 300 is perfect for a twin, it doesn't lend itself well to a single. Having it mounted in the side makes it tough to reach batteries on other side of the motor. In front of the motor and that's more real estate gone. It's a pain in the butt!

Not if it's mounted right...
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hlight=fantasm

[kfxguy]

There is coremat all in the front so no need for epoxy. Wont be doing 2 part as I wont lose the boat anyway, I use the boats in a large wading pool about 200 meters long and its only 2 foot deep max. I also have a fear that if a seem splits or something cracks, the 2 part will expand as it always does and make it near impossible to fix the hull

I don't think the two part will expand more. I did some testing with it and once it cured that was it. The problem with foam (I've done a bunch of playing around and ruined a brand new boat doing it) is
1) you use the foam in the can. It cures unevenly and cures from the outside in..... Which makes the inner part almost never cure or take a really long time. When this happens, you get your cured shape and your pushout of foam initially. Then the inner cures and it is trapped by outer cured foam.... There is no easy way for it to escape as its not in the open anymore. So it just expands all different ways.... And that's bad. Really bad.

2) two part foam does not air cure like the single part does. It cures because you mix the two parts together. It cures evenly on the inside and out. I wasted almost a whole kit to make sure of this before I poured any into my boat. Once it's cured I see no way for it to expand more. I made a couple large balls with it and let it cure. The we're in a partially enclosed container to sort of simulate a hull or sponson. While expanding it moved to open area very quickly. Cut it open and the Middle of it was dry and cured. When I did that with spray foam... Even days later it was still wet.

Needless to say, I ordered a few more two part foam kits from kintec to do the rest of the boats I have.

[Fella1340]

I would check with whoever you bought the motor from before doing anything to it. I have two 5660, old and new style and both have flats. It very well have been missed during manufacturing. If yours is 82mm long it's new style and 92 mm it's the old style. Something else, while looking at the motor I noticed you didn't use the factory drilled holes and have it mounted in the machined slots. You will need to epoxy in supports to make sure the motor is locked in those slots good. A little carbon sheet fitted in an holes drilled will take care of that. My apologies if it's on your to do list!

[mekzoid]

I would check with whoever you bought the motor from before doing anything to it. I have two 5660, old and new style and both have flats. It very well have been missed during manufacturing. If yours is 82mm long it's new style and 92 mm it's the old style. Something else, while looking at the motor I noticed you didn't use the factory drilled holes and have it mounted in the machined slots. You will need to epoxy in supports to make sure the motor is locked in those slots good. A little carbon sheet fitted in an holes drilled will take care of that. My apologies if it's on your to do list!

I actually never thought of the motor sliding around, I will put some epoxy there once the driveline is done (make sure its right!).
My tp5660 was custom made and wound. I have a mate with a lathe, Should be a quick job anyway.

Rocstar: Ah I thought that must have been how you and keith have been doing it. I only have 1mm gap between the esc and the top of the hull, So it will have to stay upside down on this build unfortunately

Thanks alot for the posts guys, I'll do some more work on it today and post the updates in about 8 hours!

[Fella1340]

They custom make and wind every motor you order at TP, very few items in stock. That has nothing to with your motor not having a flat. If you ordered it through TP an email will you sorted out. The work cannot be performed on a lathe and it's not a quick job done properly. It's your motor.

[mekzoid]

Oh ok I never knew that, I will send them an email now, Cheers mate

[Fella1340]

I think you would be happier in the long run having things correct on the motor from the factory. Putting your own flat on leaves you no recourse whatsoever if you have any problem with the motor when you get it running. Say it was a dead motor or ran poorly, whatever the reason. You start doing things like putting your own flat on it you may as well toss it in the garbage if you have problem.

[Fluid]

The MBR collets do not require a flat an the output shaft. Not all motors come with flats from the factory, most Neus do not for example.



.

[NativePaul]

I can't imagine any motor manufacturer trying to get themselves out of a warranty claim on the basis that you put a flat spot on the shaft, why blame something irrelevant and risk it getting on the net and giving them a bad rep, when they could just say that you overloaded it, which could be caused by many things unrelated to the motor and you cant disprove.

A lathe certainly would not be the easiest way to flatspot a shaft, but it doesn't take any great engineering skill or specialist tools to do it either, I have done many over the years with either a small wetstone and some oil, or a Dremmel with a cutting disc when they came on the scene, mark the position of the flat by either tightening up a pointed grub screw or poking a marker pen down the grub screw hole, poke the shaft through an undersized hole in the bottom of a ziplock bag you made with a needle, seal the motor inside to stop any metallic dust from being attracted into the motor or bearings by the magnets, and go at it with a dremmel/stone the flat doesn't have to be much bigger than the grub screw or very deep, 1/10th of the shaft diameter is ample.

[kfxguy]

I'd file a flat on it. Finish it and go run that beouch! No way I'd let something so simple hold me up......

[mekzoid]

I had a hold up today anyway with my wrist. Wont be touching the boat for a while.
TPPOWER is sending me a new shaft free of charge and is changing their website so people have to option to choose. Was really impressed with their response.