carbon fiber inlay

[Darin Jordan]

Good Work on the water cooling plate...

It looks like more work than it's worth, however... For those without a mill, I used one of these to convert my Mamba Max Pro ESCs to water cooling. For the price, I just couldn't justify firing up my own mill.... They are only $5.95... plus shipping, of course...


http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80674

[Fella1340]

Its still a lot nicer. Plus the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Sure beats sitting in front of the tv waiting for the mailman to come!
Keep the boat refit rolling!

[kfxguy]

Good Work on the water cooling plate...

It looks like more work than it's worth, however... For those without a mill, I used one of these to convert my Mamba Max Pro ESCs to water cooling. For the price, I just couldn't justify firing up my own mill.... They are only $5.95... plus shipping, of course...


http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80674

I know lol. I saw those and its cheap.....but I had to order...wait and then do something with the orange color that didn't match. Plus mine has more capacity lol.

[kfxguy]

Its still a lot nicer. Plus the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Sure beats sitting in front of the tv waiting for the mailman to come!
Keep the boat refit rolling!

Agreed 100%! :)

[tiqueman]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

[kfxguy]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

Hmmm....mine might end up being that way. I didn't wet mine out because from past experience I've found its a pita to do that and then try to move the cf cloth around if you don't lay it straight. I dunno. I did put forth extra effort to make sure the resin soaked in and the resin I use is pretty thin....as in it pours really easy and will soak through easily. I blot it with a paint brush a lot and then came back with the foam roller last. I dunno....ill have to see....cuz I know this thing is gonna get flipped a few times lol. If it comes out.....well lesson learned and ill try it again! You do have a good point for sure and ill absolutely agree.

[kfxguy]

Here's an update on my motor mount. Servo mount from ose came in today too.

20131101_224644.jpg

I need some ideas fellas. I bought the billet servo mount. Its supposed to bolt down but im really against drilling holes in my hull....what else? I tried to make some little plates and put t nuts in them....but that didn't work out well. I may try that again or lay down several layers of cf with t nuts in them and vaccum bag it.


Actually I think I have the answer. Thin wooden plate cut a little bigger than the servo mount. Laminate with one layer of cf and then drill it to fit t nuts. Epoxy to hull. Now mount will screw to that without putting holes in my hull. Good idea?

[tiqueman]

Sounds like it'll work well to me.

Back to inlays real quick. It can be done the way travis has done his. You just have to be sure you have complete saturation. Its just easier in my findings and a guarantee its all soaked doing it the way I suggest above. If you lay it in crooked, pull it out or carefully slide it. I've done both succesfully. Bottom line, don't be afraid of it.

Travis don't assume yours isn't adhered correctly. Usually the tunnels are all soaked becaus its easy to get to and work. Its the tunnel sides and hull sides that I normally see most error.

[keithbradley]

Looking good Travis. Keep it up.

Something for all to consider while laying carbon, and I say this because I have now fixed 2 boats for people whom have purchased so called "carbon inlayed boats" off of others from the forum, one of which I was able to pull almost all the carbon out by hand within an hour. Carbon fiber will not allow resin to soak thru and wet out nearly as easily as standard cloth will. It is much easier if you wet out the entire surface of the hull with thin even layer of a quality resin and THEN lay in the carbon, then wet out again from above as needed. Ive seen too many now where people slop it in and absolute dry spots can be found in the cf and its not even close to bonding in some areas of the hull. Wetting out the hull first guarantees full saturation and its very easy to blot out any extra resin to keep it as light and strong as possible. Don't be afraid to put gloves on and get in there and work things around. You need to be cautious not to disturb the strands but you can still easily work it and make sure all areas are pressed into the hull completely. Then blot over with a brush, roller, sponge, whatever technique you prefer and make her look pretty. Keep your gloves on, go back in when you think your all done and I bet youll find some areas that shifted and have air under them. Press out using your fingers or a tool if need be, check it 20 times and let it dry. Just my .02 of doing over 100 cf lay ups. And really more so thought Id chime in because of the two BAD hulls Ive had to completely gut for customers and repair here all due to horrible cf inlays.

^^^^^Totally agree with this guy ^^^^^

It's really not that hard to do it the right way either. There's no reason to do it any other way!

[keithbradley]

Here's an update on my motor mount. Servo mount from ose came in today too.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]107325[/ATTACH]

I need some ideas fellas. I bought the billet servo mount. Its supposed to bolt down but im really against drilling holes in my hull....what else? I tried to make some little plates and put t nuts in them....but that didn't work out well. I may try that again or lay down several layers of cf with t nuts in them and vaccum bag it.


Actually I think I have the answer. Thin wooden plate cut a little bigger than the servo mount. Laminate with one layer of cf and then drill it to fit t nuts. Epoxy to hull. Now mount will screw to that without putting holes in my hull. Good idea?

Drill baby, drill!

Don't be scared to cut, drill, etc. It's an entry-level mentality and It's only going to hold you back. I'm not sure what your background is, but the more you get comfortable with removing limitations like this, the better your work will be.

[Wetter]

i think kfxguy is doing awesome trial and error, NASA anyone!
damn i like this class to

[kfxguy]

Drill baby, drill!

Don't be scared to cut, drill, etc. It's an entry-level mentality and It's only going to hold you back. I'm not sure what your background is, but the more you get comfortable with removing limitations like this, the better your work will be.

My experience is pretty good I'd say the problem I have with drilling is a couple things. First thing is a nut and screw through a weak thin material like I working with leads me to believe that it can get cracked there easily if I flip it. And flip it I will lol. It also is a weak spot in my opinion. Could be a possible leak (not that concerned with that) also I like to change things a lot. If I drill those holes then decide to use a different mount...then I have holes to fill. Which I don't like doing. Can I? Yes, but I don't like it. I know you wont see the nuts when the boat is in the water but I feel like leaving nuts hanging (whoa did I say that? Lmao) on the bottom of a hull is like drilling through a quarter panel on a car and seeing the bolts/nuts. I feel like its just not right lol.

Call me crazy, but im just weird about some things lol.

[kfxguy]

I forgot. When I drill through the hull I like to have a plate or something on each side to distribute the stress more evenly. A plate on the bottom just wouldn't be right. Washers aren't enough support in my opinion. This is just my past experience speaking but I am new to boats. Anyone ever experienced a crack at a drilled hole?

[Fella1340]

Hey Kfxguy, I would stick with doing what your comfortable with. I'm not sure what this entry level
mentality is about and how its supposedly holding you back? Whatever, keep up the good work and have fun!

[keithbradley]

I hope you didn't take my post the wrong way...it wasn't meant to be abrasive. To clarify, I wasn't suggesting that the OP has an entry level mentality...I'm saying that being scared to drill holes in a boat is something that people who are new to building typically possess. That doesn't mean that kfxguy's abilities are typecast into some generalization that I didn't mean to imply...

I wouldn't put nuts on the bottom of a hull either, that would look pretty bad in my opinion. Stainless button head allen screws that thread into the piece you are making (up from the bottom) is another story though.

Typically, bolting something to the hull will, if anything, strengthen it by spreading the load out.
I would compare bolting things through the side of the sponson to bolting things to a fender. Bolting things to the tunnel is more like bolting things to the tunnel in a car, which is something that is regularly done and accepted. Would you rather crash in a car that had the seat belts epoxied in?