Vac-U-Tug recovery boat build

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  • alanr77
    Member
    • Jan 2013
    • 57

    #1

    Vac-U-Tug recovery boat build

    Hello, going through the many threads in the various forums I noticed that there is not much attention given to a very important aspect of our hobby; how to recover these super expensive FE boats that we build. I happen to live in a very boat friendly area- 1 block from the slip of my 30' sailboat on a tidal saltwater creek 3 miles from the open Atlantic Ocean. Perfect place to run everything from float planes, sailboats and FE boats. Having played around with RC sailboats on this creek, and while trying to dock my full size boat, the extreme tides here and the resulting 7 knot current makes a recovery vessel mandatory. It is a pain to inflate the dinghy everytime I want to use my models. Now, as a modeller, I could not bring myself to buy a cheap RTR rc boat and trust it to recover larger sailboats in this current. In addition, I am looking to build a FCR Fantasm in the near future. Given that our boats usually have at least a grand worth of expensive electronics aboard, I would hate to see my boat being carried out to sea. So, I chose to build a Vac-U-Tug- available from Vac-U-Boat.com.

    Now, the stock setup that comes with the tug is a 12v low kv brushed Johnson 385. It also comes supplied with a 1/8" shaft and 3 blade plastic prop. I am sure this works fine but being a crazed modeller who can't leave well enough alone, I decided to "upgrade" the drive system. Now, I am sure this is most likely overkill but why not? So, the parts list of upgrades is as follows;

    Turnigy 28mm 950kv brushless outrunner
    Turnigy 30 amp water cooled esc
    50mm Raboesch 4 blade brass prop
    Harbor Models 3/16 prop shaft and stuffing tube
    Subwerks electric waterpump
    Water cooled motor mount
    Various LED's to recreate deck lights
    1/48 scale radar with a modified micro servo to spin it
    Various scale parts- tires, fenders ect from harbor models

    The plan is to have a forced water cooled setup that is turned on and off via channel 5 on my tx. The radar will be tied into this so that I can visually see that the water pump is on by looking at the radar. The lights will be controlled by channel 6. I will modify mini aaa maglight housings to operate as the two forward search lights. The tug will be modeled after a tugboat on the Savannah River named "CYNTHIA TURECAMO".

    Overkill? Maybe. But it should be a fun build nontheless. 20130315_105443.jpg20130315_105454.jpg20130315_105504.jpg20130315_105513.jpg20130315_105532.jpg
    Last edited by alanr77; 03-17-2013, 11:46 AM. Reason: Grammar
  • alanr77
    Member
    • Jan 2013
    • 57

    #2
    Tug that she will be modeled after. It was the closest tug that I could find that looked similar to the Vac-U-Tug. savannahtug.JPG

    Comment

    • alanr77
      Member
      • Jan 2013
      • 57

      #3
      The kit includes a formed plastic stand that is molded to fit the hull.

      Includedstand.jpg

      I used this build to justify buying an airbrush kit. I have never used an airbrush before so I will use the boat stand to practice painting before I paint the actual hull. I will paint the hull with Badger Modelflex marine colors Acrylic water based paint.

      The entire kit has traced edges showing where to cut out the parts. The material is easily cut with normal scissors.

      cutswithscissors.jpg

      Before paint- as always- comes the most important part, prep work. I first cleaned the plastic with a scrub pad and mild soap to remove surface contaminates. Then lightly sanded/scuffed with 130 grit sandpaper.

      120gsandstand.jpg

      I then primed the plastic with PlastiKote sandable primer. Three coats were needed, as per the instructions. I lightly sanded with 400 grit in between coats.

      primerstand.jpg

      I will let the primer dry for a day or so before lightly sanding with 400 and then comes my first airbrush coat. Being that I have never used an airbrush, I will play it safe and follow all the rules to a T. As in multiple mist coats until the plastic is covered. Everything I paint will be coated with a clear acrylic to protect it from scuffs.
      Last edited by alanr77; 03-16-2013, 09:39 AM. Reason: Incorrect information

      Comment

      • alanr77
        Member
        • Jan 2013
        • 57

        #4
        The nest step is to assemble the new prop shaft and stuffing tube. The stock setup is a 1/8" shaft with a small 3 blade plastic prop. I wanted to use a brass prop, 50mm in size. So instead of adapting the little prop shaft to the prop, I ordered a 3/16" stainless prop shaft and stuffing tube from Harbor Models. The new shaft is 22" or so long so I had to cut it down to size.


        Stock prop shaft vs the new prop shaft
        stockvsupgradeshaft.jpg

        I think the 3/16" shaft is for a MUCH bigger boat
        hugepropshaft.jpg

        Measure and mark
        markedcuts.jpg

        Dremel cuts
        cuttube.jpg

        My cuts were horrible so I had to gring the shaft and tube
        deburrtube.jpg

        Comment

        • alanr77
          Member
          • Jan 2013
          • 57

          #5
          Next I had to grind a flat spot for the motor coupler set screw
          grindflatspot.jpg

          Scuff the stuffing box tube so the epoxy used during installation will bond to it
          roughtube.jpg

          Deburr and polish the prop shaft
          polishshaft.jpg

          New shaft ready for dry fit of coupling
          newshaft.jpg

          The included motor coupling is designed for a 1/8" shaft so I had to drill out the hole to 3/16". Instead of buying a new coupling at $22 a pop I figured there would be enough material in the coupling to just modify it. I had to build a drill jig to ensure the hole was true. Seems to have worked out well.
          holetosmall.jpg

          Comment

          • alanr77
            Member
            • Jan 2013
            • 57

            #6
            New shaft and coupling ready for assembly
            readyforassm.jpg

            Good to go
            dryfit.jpg

            The instructions at this point tell me to fill the tube full of grease. However, I will install the stuffing tube before doing this to prevent and grease from getting on the tube and messing up the epoxy bond.

            Comment

            • alanr77
              Member
              • Jan 2013
              • 57

              #7
              Ok, the learning curve for using an airbrush was pretty steep. I ended up with blue paint all over myself and everything around me. But, I think I have it figured out. Airbrushes spray a much finer mist than spray cans- this lends itself to many thin coats to achieve a nice finish. I originally was going to paint the topsides blue but have decided on red instead. So, having 4oz of blue left over, I decided to paint the stand blue. Should look better when the tug is on display- black hull against the blue stand.

              Coat number 4
              Firstairbrush1.jpg

              Coat 5
              firstairbrush2.jpg

              Comment

              • alanr77
                Member
                • Jan 2013
                • 57

                #8
                Next is to cut the outline of the outer hull. The lines come pre scribed and only require a steady hand with the scissors.

                Line to cut with scissors
                linetocut.jpg

                My hands shake so....
                unsteadyhand.jpg

                Now I have to sand the outline because I can't cut a straight line
                sandedoutline.jpg

                Next is to mark the stuffing tube at 3/8". This is how far the tube will stick out of the hull
                measure.375.jpg

                Step drill the rudder hole to 1/4"
                stepdrilltherunner.jpg

                Comment

                • alanr77
                  Member
                  • Jan 2013
                  • 57

                  #9
                  Rudder hole drilled
                  rudderhole.jpg

                  Sand the rudder hole to remove burrs
                  smoothrudderhole.jpg

                  Cut the hole for the prop stuffing tube
                  cutprophole.jpg

                  Mark hole for first skeg screw
                  markskeghole.jpg

                  Drill the first hole. It's really important to get this hole right. The skeg is aligned to the keel and the first hole sets the stage for the rest of the task.
                  skeghole1.jpg

                  Comment

                  • alanr77
                    Member
                    • Jan 2013
                    • 57

                    #10
                    Align the skeg to the keel and mark it for the second hole
                    alignskegtokeel.jpg

                    I was not happy with aligning it by eye. The alignment is important to ensure the rudder does not bind when it is attached to the bottom of the skeg. To ensure this alignment was correct, I dry fit the rudder and used it as the jig to mark the second hole for the skeg.
                    checkforrudderbind.jpg

                    At this point, drill the second hole and secure the skeg. Double check the rudder after securing the skeg to make sure there is no bind.
                    secureskeg.jpg

                    While everything is attached, I dry fit the prop. The skeg will have to be notched to clear the 50mm prop. I will modify the hull to use this big prop. With a low kv outrunner and the 50mm prop this thing should be a powerhouse.
                    trimneeded.jpg

                    Comment

                    • alanr77
                      Member
                      • Jan 2013
                      • 57

                      #11
                      The next steps called for a cutout and test fit of the hull inner liner. This will most likely need to be modified to fit the water cooled motor mount but I followed the directions up to this point.

                      The inner liner has the pre made scribe lines as well.
                      innerliner scribe1.jpg

                      I am NOT good with scissors. I cut out the outline and had to sand the area to make it smooth. This will not hurt anything because I plan to fasten the liner to the hull with bi-axle cloth and epoxy. The scuffing would be needed for the epoxy to bond anyway.
                      innerlinertestfit3.jpg
                      innerlinercut2.jpg

                      After sanding I test fitting I cut out the hole for the prop shaft with a razor.
                      innerlinercutout4.jpg

                      After test fitting and ensuring everything was lined up, I scuffed the area around the stuffing tube to prepare for the cloth and epoxy.
                      stuffingtubescuff5.jpg

                      Comment

                      • alanr77
                        Member
                        • Jan 2013
                        • 57

                        #12
                        To bond the stuffing tube to the hull, I first aligned it and secured it with a dab of CA glue to hold it in alignment. I then applied 5 layers of bi-axle cloth saturated in West System Epoxy. This should hold the stuffing tube in place.
                        westsystemstuffingtube6.jpg

                        I always blend in a little filler to add strength to the epoxy, hence the black dots. After this dries I will fill in around the outside of the stuffing tube with thickened epoxy and fair it to the hull.

                        Comment

                        • Make-a-Wake
                          FE Rules!
                          • Nov 2009
                          • 5554

                          #13
                          Nice build.
                          NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

                          Comment

                          • ray schrauwen
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Apr 2007
                            • 9438

                            #14
                            Subbed.... err ahh, tugged... Nice extras you have decided on. This will be cool to watch. This build may be a good idea for me too...
                            Nortavlag Bulc

                            Comment

                            • alanr77
                              Member
                              • Jan 2013
                              • 57

                              #15
                              Thanks for the comments, I was beginning to wonder if anyone had any interest in a lowly vacUtug here on OSE. The support vessels and teams never get any credit lol.

                              Anyways, I applied the final coat of blue on the stand. My god, I am now an airbrush fan. The finish is perfect. No flaws, runs and very little overspray. It's a little more work being that you have to clean it each time, but the paints are water based and clean up easily. I just wait until the girl is not around and use the kitchen sink. :)

                              Final coat, ready for clear coat.
                              finalcoat2.jpg

                              New parts came in today. A real rubber bumper for the bow and 20 real rubber tires in two different sizes for use as fenders. If you notice on the real tug, she had bigger tires up front and smaller tires aft. Small details but they make a difference.
                              newparts1.jpg

                              At this time I mixed up some thickened West System and layered it over the hardened cloth. Looks like I will have some sanding to do but it will be bulletproof.
                              thickepoxy3.jpg
                              thickepoxy4.jpg

                              I also faired the outside of the stuffing tube.
                              faired5.jpg

                              When everything was dry fit, I noticed I may be able to install the prop without notching the skeg. The clearance is like 1/16" so we will see. I am not sure how true this prop shaft will run so if it is any less than 1/16 I will notch it for clearance.

                              Comment

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