Genesis twin 1st. build. appreciate all tips and hints

[fjelling]

Hi there.

I'll try to make a list here, but I bought it in a local store here in Norway, but fightercat has most of these parts and of course OSE

Drive
110mm stinger with 3/16 shaft x2.
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...product&id=131

http://fightercatracing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=21&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Flex Shaft Right:
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...product&id=223

Flex Shaft Left:
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...product&id=222

Collets for 5mm shaft to 4,76mm flex x2:
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...product&id=766

And you need brass tubes and teflon for these.
You also need of course epoxy.
I made my own motor mounts, but I think you can use some of these:
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...=product&id=44


Electronics.

Hobby King 120A 6S ESC:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Boat_ESC.html

HobbyKing or Leopard 3674 2200kv. Not saing thay are the same. Ordered these now:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...nner_19T_.html

Cooling jacket:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19444

Also, I used the receiver box for Traxxas Rustler / stampede / bandit / Spartan TRX-3628 Receiverbox WP:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ceiver-Box-Kit

Hope this is a good start for you

Regards
Jonas.

[Xfactor6]

Hi there.

I'll try to make a list here, but I bought it in a local store here in Norway, but fightercat has most of these parts and of course OSE

Drive
110mm stinger with 3/16 shaft x2.
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...product&id=131

http://fightercatracing.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=39&category_id=21&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Flex Shaft Right:
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...product&id=223

Flex Shaft Left:
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...product&id=222

Collets for 5mm shaft to 4,76mm flex x2:
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...product&id=766

And you need brass tubes and teflon for these.
You also need of course epoxy.
I made my own motor mounts, but I think you can use some of these:
http://www.rcmaritimenorway.no/index...=product&id=44


Electronics.

Hobby King 120A 6S ESC:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Boat_ESC.html

HobbyKing or Leopard 3674 2200kv. Not saing thay are the same. Ordered these now:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...nner_19T_.html

Cooling jacket:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19444

Also, I used the receiver box for Traxxas Rustler / stampede / bandit / Spartan TRX-3628 Receiverbox WP:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ceiver-Box-Kit

Hope this is a good start for you

Regards
Jonas.

Thanks, I really appreciate it, I will look at the links you sent me. Im trying to find as much as I can in the states as I am in NY.

[Rocstar]

Thanks, I really appreciate it, I will look at the links you sent me. Im trying to find as much as I can in the states as I am in NY.

The Fightercat Daytona is the same hull. https://fightercatracing.com/

[Steve McGinley]

Quick question, I see you are using two speed controllers, do you have the spektrum MR300 marine receiver? I don't quite understand how to connect two speed controllers together to get even throttle response out of the motors. I know the MR200 only has one throttle output channel and the MR300 has two throttle output channels so I would assume you need a receiver with two throttle outputs? Its either I purchase two ESC's or I purchase the fightercat ESC made for a TWIN. Which way is best and can how many cells can I run with the fightercat ESC as opposed to say a two hobbywing 120's or two hobbywing 180's?

[fjelling]

I don`t know anything about the spektrum or the FC ESC, I`m using the futaba 4pl with S-FHSS.
First I tried to use channel 2 as throttle master and channel 3 as slave using mixing, but i did not get the throttle-speed to work as I wantet.
So I ended up using a Y cable and run the throttle calibration on both at the same time.
I like to sett down the throttle-speed to get a smooth acceleration as not to stress the drive and the electric.


I would choose the lightest alternativ. Don`t think the 180A is necessary in a twin. And isn`t the FC twin a big beast?
I am going to run the 2200kv motors on 4S and maybe try 5S packs.
6S in a twin would be heavy I think, but prove me wrong:)

So the Genesis and the FC Daytona is exactly the same?
Is the Zonda and the Fantasm also the same?

Got new 5S packs and wire mesh guard. Now I regret that I kept the old servo mount:

11042013331.jpg11042013332.jpg11042013333.jpg

[iridebikes247]

Very nice clean build. Changing servo mount will be easy enough.

[Steve McGinley]

Yeah, I'm pretty sure they are all basically the same. The fightercat twin ESC will work but I could save some money by going with two seperate escs. The MR300 by spektrum has TWO seperate THROTTLE channels that's why I was asking how you configured yours. Let me know how it runs with the 5s packs, I'm curious. Also in your opinion was it worth it to convert to a twin? The cost factor us huge but I really want to build one.

[fjelling]

Thank you iridebikes!

Ok
The RX I`m using is pretty simple, I bet the FASST system is more similar to the spektrum.
If it`s like you say I would use the MR300. I don`t like to use Y cables. Can`t really say why

To me it was worth it because I have learned a lot with this build and I have not yet testet it the way I thought was the most fun, with a follow boat in some waves.
Which I think it will be much better, hopefully. Wating for some bether wether to test it out.
But for straight speed runs, it`s not worth it. Then I would go with a 4082 1400-1600kv on 6S and the 180A ESC like most others.

[fjelling]

today I tested it on 5S.
Tried only with the 40mm propellers to see how it worked out.
And it did work. No overheating and long runtime.
I was alone so I have no video, but it comes soon enough :)
It's probably a little early to run rc boats around here because I ended up hitting a small ice floe and broke the plastic screw in the rudder.
I also got some water into the boat, but that was because I've run four trips without grease up the axles.
It has never been an issue on the first trips.

I'm not entirely satisfied with how the cooling works.
There is very little water coming out through the outlets so if anyone has got a suggestion to easily upgrade the cooling, then I'll gladly accept tips.
I don`t want to test it with larger props until I got a better cooling.
I find that rc boat Bitz has a dual pickup rudder, is there anyone who have tested it?

http://shop.rcboatbitz.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=39&products_id=1070&zenid=c5950666b203dc07242e8ba992f7e274

[iridebikes247]

Is everything coming back cool? It's weird on some of my boats I have a fountain of water coming out on others very difficult to see. I would probably buy the rudder you mentioned. I haven't tested it but you can always mod for more cooling. Rudder pickups tend to work best in my opinion. I have tried flush mount pickups, transom mounted, pretty much all of them and just like the simplicity of the rudder pickup. Through hull flush pickups work well just annoying to install.

[fjelling]

It`s not coming back hot, but to hot to go from 440 to 445 I gues.
Yea I probably order the rudder.
I don`t like to split up the tubes like I have done now. If one line is a bit longer or got one more bend then the other, most of the water will just go the easiest way.
When it had just one motor I did like the picture, but I don`t think it will work without the propeller in the middle...

16042012029.jpg

[fjelling]

Today I got my new motors, turnigy 2200kv.
I will not insert the motors without having anything done with the cooling so it was just to get started drilling through the hull
I used 4mm brass tubes which I drilled at an angle through the hull and let them stick about 2mm outside the hull.
Will it be too much drag by having them sticking out so much so I have to cut them flush with the hull or will it be okay?

23042013344.jpg23042013348.jpg23042013349.jpg

[Southwest]

Your angle needs to be angled more with nothing extending beyond the hull surface. Remember the hull won't be running flat but will run with bow up some so pickup will grasp water. I would make hole almost 3/4" long and curl the brass rod toward the bow to look like the letter C or instead of C angle , I would angle portion inside of boat toward the drive shaft or stuffing tube so you can attach water line to stuffing tube. Best way to do this is to cut small pieces of brass tubing and solder to get right angle. You can anneal brass to get your angle correct. You can downsize brass tubing to match water line hole. I've done it but hard to explain. I cool my inrunner motors with pcv pipe and O rings and conformal liquid and never leak. I'm done! Don't laugh, I know my stuff!

[fjelling]

Thanks for the tip, but I do not quite understand what you mean.
You might have some pictures that can explain?

gjennomføring.jpg

[Southwest]

Better off to go to Offshore site and buy a flush mount water pickup. 80405 water pickup.