35" DF Pirate 1st build.

[tlandauer]

Regarding space: you are getting great advices. I had problem with my build because I wanted to use a Peter Z motor mount which widens the foot print much more than yours. Little I could do to help myself, I made sure every bolt/screws have hex head so I can use this tool: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDPX6&P=7. No Nhilips head for me, this shortened " L" version is a wonder.

[KartRacer]

Hey,

You should rethink your setup inside of the hull,
Down the line you may want more speed and bigger cells to do it with,
So just trying to think a head for your setup in the future.
Your servo, Like 3" from transom next to the stuffing and receiver on other side of tube and than cells,
And than motor and esc,
If your stuffing tube is to short and low it will let water in.
Hear link for some info on that hull.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...35-quot-Pirate
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...Pirate-Rebuild

Lenny
The two threads show one with motor to the front and the other to the rear. I thought the shortest driveline was the most efficient and least troublesome. Am I wrong on that theory? I could easily move motor to front with longer stuffing tube and place everything else to the rear. Is there a Prefered layout of the power system. The two 3 s batteries will be heavy and figured them to be the best to move around for cog setting.

[KartRacer]

Regarding space: you are getting great advices. I had problem with my build because I wanted to use a Peter Z motor mount which widens the foot print much more than yours. Little I could do to help myself, I made sure every bolt/screws have hex head so I can use this tool: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDPX6&P=7. No Nhilips head for me, this shortened " L" version is a wonder.

Tlandauer
Tools are not the issue, I am lousy with tools. Lol
Again I would like to know the preferred setup.
I'll be CF/Kevlar the hull in the morning and then will need to decide on the layout.
Also, the stuffing tube as it is , short, has a slight bend to it to get the tube level with hull on exit. I had read somewhere about a s bend in another thread. Is one preferred over another.

[KartRacer]

The 4092 motor has 5.5 bullets on it. I have 6.5 bullets on hand and will use them on all other connections with 10mm wire. Should I change the motor bullets? Also i will be putting in safety shutoff loop on hull and planned on the 6.5 bullets there also.

Canopy hold downs , should I put in aluminum latches or is tape sufficient. Planned on slide in pin on the front with latches on the rear. Don't want to over build if not necessary.
Thanks.

[KartRacer]

Yeah, move it to another location or use lay down type mount

Dana
Can move stuff anywhere at this point. Does length of push rod matter. Using 4-40 rod.

[KartRacer]

Make a wake
Was planning on one water feed from rudder to motor mount, then through motor jacket and out the fitting. The other rudder feed would cool the ESC then out the other exit.
Sound logical?

[srislash]

Lenny
The two threads show one with motor to the front and the other to the rear. I thought the shortest driveline was the most efficient and least troublesome. Am I wrong on that theory? I could easily move motor to front with longer stuffing tube and place everything else to the rear. Is there a Prefered layout of the power system. The two 3 s batteries will be heavy and figured them to be the best to move around for cog setting.

Hey there Kart,just thought I'd throw this out there for "food for thought".I have a DF 35" (not Pirate),I haven't compared bottoms but I'd bet they are the same if not real close. Here is how mine is setup: I run 4 3s batteries to make 6s2p.I hae two behind the motor on the CF tray and one on either side of the motor able to go forward or back.



And here is a vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XOGvQroid0&feature=plcp
I have vids of it when it was all hoppy.

And as it gets faster it needs the batteries as far forward as possible.

And it has been cleaned up a bit since this pic.

[dana]

Dana
Can move stuff anywhere at this point. Does length of push rod matter. Using 4-40 rod.

nah i dont think so, but i generally keep them somewhat short. the ul1 servo is mounted way up front and uses a long pushrod without issues, so whatever you choose should be ok

[lenny]

That is what I am taking about,
Very nice setup, Nice and clean and hatch bolts with a seal.

Hey there Kart,just thought I'd throw this out there for "food for thought".I have a DF 35" (not Pirate),I haven't compared bottoms but I'd bet they are the same if not real close. Here is how mine is setup: I run 4 3s batteries to make 6s2p.I hae two behind the motor on the CF tray and one on either side of the motor able to go forward or back.



And here is a vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XOGvQroid0&feature=plcp
I have vids of it when it was all hoppy.

And as it gets faster it needs the batteries as far forward as possible.

And it has been cleaned up a bit since this pic.

[Make-a-Wake]

Make a wake
Was planning on one water feed from rudder to motor mount, then through motor jacket and out the fitting. The other rudder feed would cool the ESC then out the other exit.
Sound logical?

Yea, one line for the ESC and one for the motor..................seperate exits too.

[tlandauer]

Tlandauer
Tools are not the issue, I am lousy with tools. Lol
Again I would like to know the preferred setup.
I'll be CF/Kevlar the hull in the morning and then will need to decide on the layout.
Also, the stuffing tube as it is , short, has a slight bend to it to get the tube level with hull on exit. I had read somewhere about a s bend in another thread. Is one preferred over another.

Yes, I know tools are not the issue, I was trying to not get in your way and other people's way, what I was trying to say is as long as you can get in and perform all the adjustments and maintenences with essential tools, with reasonable consideration given to logical layout, don't lose sleep over it, you need to decide what's best for you with your gut feeling after absorbibg all these info.
I have seen "S" bends on cats and hydros, your notion about the stuffing tube in your case is correct.

[Scott T]

Dennis,

Some dimensions from my DF21 mkII if you're interested (all from outside face of transom) -

Middle of servo - 3"
Mounting face of motor (shaft end) - 6.75"
Middle of ESC - 11.5"
Rear edge of 6S1P battery - 13.5"

You've seen my thread, so you can see the layout. It is very easy to maintain and the boat is a rocket. You'll have to adjust your distances slightly as your hull is shorter, but it might give you a starting point.

If you go for 4 x 3S packs (6S2P), you'll need to do something a bit different. Hope that helps!

Scott

[KartRacer]

Tremendous help everyone, thanks! Ill look things over again and make layout changes and post before I dive in with epoxy on mounts :)

[KartRacer]

Dennis,

Some dimensions from my DF21 mkII if you're interested (all from outside face of transom) -

Middle of servo - 3"
Mounting face of motor (shaft end) - 6.75"
Middle of ESC - 11.5"
Rear edge of 6S1P battery - 13.5"

You've seen my thread, so you can see the layout. It is very easy to maintain and the boat is a rocket. You'll have to adjust your distances slightly as your hull is shorter, but it might give you a starting point.

If you go for 4 x 3S packs (6S2P), you'll need to do something a bit different. Hope that helps!

Scott

Scott
Any idea on run time I'll get with the 2x 3s setup verses the 4x 3s setup. Should I plan for adding the extra two batteries now or can that change at a later date?

Running setup in my sig line.

[dana]

Two 3s packs won't get you more that 3 minutes on a good day. Can you run two 6s packs parallel instead?