New Stealth hydro

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  • Shooter
    Team Mojo
    • Jun 2009
    • 2520

    #31
    For what it's worth, I run my rudder on the right side (first time trying this). I have the servo pulling during the turn (push-rod in tension). I struggled with the turns until this very weekend. I ran Friday, Sat, and Sunday. Finally, I ended up increasing my turn fin width and she turns on a dime now. It used to skid and bounce a lot and I was beginning to think it was my rudder location. Not so at all. Works fine on the right side. Good luck!

    Rudder.jpg

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    • phil t
      Senior Member
      • Feb 2010
      • 166

      #32
      DSC02303 (800x532).jpg

      This is the CD machine, turn fin and mount.
      Phil Thomas
      email supersport45@aol.com
      http://www.philthomashydros.com

      Comment

      • ray schrauwen
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Apr 2007
        • 9438

        #33
        Very nice Phil. May I ask what is the approx. the best depth for my turnfin on my PTSS?? I have a Mike Hughes turnfun, very similar to Virginia Craftsman.

        It did get a bit mangled last race so, I might be getting one of these.
        Nortavlag Bulc

        Comment

        • phil t
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2010
          • 166

          #34
          Originally posted by ray schrauwen View Post
          Very nice Phil. May I ask what is the approx. the best depth for my turnfin on my PTSS?? I have a Mike Hughes turnfun, very similar to Virginia Craftsman.

          It did get a bit mangled last race so, I might be getting one of these.
          2-2.5" below the sponson pad is ok.
          Phil Thomas
          email supersport45@aol.com
          http://www.philthomashydros.com

          Comment

          • Shooter
            Team Mojo
            • Jun 2009
            • 2520

            #35
            Hi guys. Tried something different. Gutted my boat and moved the motor WAY up front. I'm planning to run a single 4S batt sideways. I also tried to lay the motor as flat as possible. My concern is the extra length of flex cable and the extra bend. It spins as smooth as butter, but I always thought extra length and bending was not a good thing. Any advice would be appreciated.

            Reason for moving everything forward is that I've been getting ridiculous speeds out of this thing lately (running ridiculous props and added a heat sink to the endbell). Trying to keep her on the water without adding weight.

            Thanks.

            2012-09-03_12-37-56_797.jpg

            Comment

            • phil t
              Senior Member
              • Feb 2010
              • 166

              #36
              Originally posted by Shooter View Post
              Hi guys. Tried something different. Gutted my boat and moved the motor WAY up front. I'm planning to run a single 4S batt sideways. I also tried to lay the motor as flat as possible. My concern is the extra length of flex cable and the extra bend. It spins as smooth as butter, but I always thought extra length and bending was not a good thing. Any advice would be appreciated.

              Reason for moving everything forward is that I've been getting ridiculous speeds out of this thing lately (running ridiculous props and added a heat sink to the endbell). Trying to keep her on the water without adding weight.

              Thanks.


              [ATTACH=CONFIG]83812[/ATTACH]
              That should work, S bends are ok if not sharp angle. I would have just angled the motor more and used one bend to the strut
              Phil Thomas
              email supersport45@aol.com
              http://www.philthomashydros.com

              Comment

              • ray schrauwen
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Apr 2007
                • 9438

                #37
                Originally posted by Shooter View Post
                Hi guys. Tried something different. Gutted my boat and moved the motor WAY up front. I'm planning to run a single 4S batt sideways. I also tried to lay the motor as flat as possible. My concern is the extra length of flex cable and the extra bend. It spins as smooth as butter, but I always thought extra length and bending was not a good thing. Any advice would be appreciated.

                Reason for moving everything forward is that I've been getting ridiculous speeds out of this thing lately (running ridiculous props and added a heat sink to the endbell). Trying to keep her on the water without adding weight.

                Thanks.

                [ATTACH=CONFIG]83812[/ATTACH]
                I use a pair of 7600 2S 40C nanotechs and no lead. It could use 2-4 more ozs.

                The batts realy rock! Actually 2P inside but, no heat no swell. Now I need to make one of those end bells on my Taig lathe/ mill.
                Nortavlag Bulc

                Comment

                • Shooter
                  Team Mojo
                  • Jun 2009
                  • 2520

                  #38
                  Phil - Thanks. We will give it a whirl tonight with the new flex line. You are absolutely right, I probably should have put a gradual angle on the flex and angled the motor slightly. Live and learn I guess. BTW - The boat is holding up nicely!! .....and it's been through an unbelievable amount of abuse. Great hull. Tough as nails!!

                  Ray - Yeah, I have to get back to that endbell cooler. I don't have any side by side data yet, but I have about 15 runs on the ABC1717 prop with speeds in the mid 50's. I think I would have toasted the motor by now without it, but who knows. If I were to do it again, I'd machine the fins with the lathe, not the mill saw. It was a real headache.

                  Comment

                  • fla350tt
                    Senior Member
                    • Nov 2011
                    • 340

                    #39
                    bad question deleted
                    Last edited by fla350tt; 09-24-2012, 07:43 AM.

                    Comment

                    • marko500
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2008
                      • 861

                      #40
                      Just wondering if anyone has tried using an air dam on the bottom of the tunnel on the earlier Stealths?

                      Comment

                      • phil t
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2010
                        • 166

                        #41
                        Originally posted by fla350tt View Post
                        Phil

                        I recently aquired one of your hydro hulls from a member on the board. the hull was made 3-24-12. my question is: should I sand down the steps or should I fill in behind them and level to the back edge of the sponson?
                        Why??? What steps on the hydro?
                        Phil Thomas
                        email supersport45@aol.com
                        http://www.philthomashydros.com

                        Comment

                        • fla350tt
                          Senior Member
                          • Nov 2011
                          • 340

                          #42
                          Originally posted by phil t View Post
                          Why??? What steps on the hydro?
                          never mind, I thought you smoothed out the step on the sponson(main ride pad area).

                          next question is: I want to widen the boat to make it legal but my local hobby shops only have basswood in the wider widths, is this ok to use or do I need to get hard balsa wood?

                          Comment

                          • phil t
                            Senior Member
                            • Feb 2010
                            • 166

                            #43
                            Originally posted by fla350tt View Post
                            never mind, I thought you smoothed out the step on the sponson(main ride pad area).

                            next question is: I want to widen the boat to make it legal but my local hobby shops only have basswood in the wider widths, is this ok to use or do I need to get hard balsa wood?
                            The bass wood strip wil be fine, you only needto add about 1/8th inch then use some filler

                            This is a pic of the hull
                            DSC02268 (800x600).jpg
                            Last edited by phil t; 09-24-2012, 08:58 AM.
                            Phil Thomas
                            email supersport45@aol.com
                            http://www.philthomashydros.com

                            Comment

                            • Brushless55
                              Creator
                              • Oct 2008
                              • 9479

                              #44
                              I dig these hull alot!
                              nice speeds bro
                              .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

                              Comment

                              • ray schrauwen
                                Fast Electric Addict!
                                • Apr 2007
                                • 9438

                                #45
                                I haven't got mine all trimmed out yet but, I like these cells because they eliminate 90% of the lead you need to put in.

                                These never break a sweat:
                                Attached Files
                                Nortavlag Bulc

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