Df 33 build

[Graeme]

It was to reinforce the hatch and yes I used it.

[keithbradley]

Sorry if I missed it, but what was the texalium for? Did you end up using it?

[Graeme]

Yes I seem to remember rescuing your boat after the traxxas connector melted apart

The Traxxas connectors are on from the last boat the esc was in.

I will have to check what I have for bullets.

I am running 4s 2p so I may be able to get away with the traxxas connectors.

First thing I would do is change out those traxxas connectors!! Bullets Graeme!! I just run 8mm on all mine 6.5 would certainly do

[Brushless55]

First thing I would do is change out those traxxas connectors!! Bullets Graeme!! I just run 8mm on all mine 6.5 would certainly do

8MM on batteries?
good idea..

[6sHyper]

First thing I would do is change out those traxxas connectors!! Bullets Graeme!! I just run 8mm on all mine 6.5 would certainly do

[Graeme]

Does anyone have any good advice for setting the COG on this thing.

I think I read somewhere 33% was the sweet spot but I can't find the post.

[Graeme]

And the batteries showed up just when I got the Flue.
Maiden run is going to have to wait a week or so.

[Graeme]

The wrap was done by RCTagz I will have to get a picture of it in the water.
The pictures of it in the basement defiantly don't do it justice.

Who did your wrap?

[Graeme]

Thanks for the heads up I replaced the stock bullets with 6mm so hopefully that does the trick if not I will shorten the wires as you suggested. I will temp the wires on the maiden run. I will keep an eye on the battery wires as well.

I would make one suggestion, although it is not required. Flip the esc around the other way and shorten the blue wires from the esc to the motor. As an example, I had a Neu1515/T180esc hydro set up with the blue wires and the length they come in just like you. They got very hot after a run. I shortened the wires and the heat went away. I had read somewhere that some of the ESC failures are caused by excessive heat building up in the wires and then the heat transfers to the esc itself. No surprise there since it is copper. I really did not think it was that big a deal (the length) but it does make a very noticable difference in some cases. I would take for a spin and then grab those blue wires and see how it feels.

[Graeme]

Yes the servo rod is very stiff I am not sure what size it is will see how it performs.

nice and clean! is your servo rod stiff? i use .078" piano wire on all mine and yours looks good and short, but it needs to be very stiff.

[Rumdog]

Who did your wrap?

[electric]

I would make one suggestion, although it is not required. Flip the esc around the other way and shorten the blue wires from the esc to the motor. As an example, I had a Neu1515/T180esc hydro set up with the blue wires and the length they come in just like you. They got very hot after a run. I shortened the wires and the heat went away. I had read somewhere that some of the ESC failures are caused by excessive heat building up in the wires and then the heat transfers to the esc itself. No surprise there since it is copper. I really did not think it was that big a deal (the length) but it does make a very noticable difference in some cases. I would take for a spin and then grab those blue wires and see how it feels.

[Jesse J]

nice and clean! is your servo rod stiff? i use .078" piano wire on all mine and yours looks good and short, but it needs to be very stiff.

[Graeme]

Alright bit of an update I got the servo installed.
I may have to add a longer servo arm to get more rudder but will know after the maiden.
I also got the esc wired up and all the cooling lines installed.
I added reinforcement for the stuffing tube and epoxied it all in.
Cowl locks are in I just need to do up a seal.
The Battery tray is complete I just need the batteries to set the center of gravity then I will mount accordingly.

[Rumdog]

yup. It may give you the performance you're looking for. As long as you dont over prop it, it will move pretty well with the 4074