Darin's Phil Thomas Stealth Build

[detox]

Darin, You should be way out ahead of those ill handling F30 hulls. You should be hitting them in the rear like I once did with my Whiplash

[phil t]

I haven't taken a pic yet, but the transom is now capped with a .125" layer of Carbon Fiber sheet... We'll work from there! Probably not going to puncture again!

I'm a little surprised at how "dry" this layup is. There is some dry cloth around the transom areas. Might have to have a chat with Phil.

I'm thinking of ordering another one of these for another application. I really like the boat now that I have the handling figured out. The Version 2 would likely be the way to go.

Ok Darin, If you want a new one I will build it with a 1/8th each of ply and alluminum across the transom instead of the 1/4 ply.

[Darin Jordan]

Ok Darin, If you want a new one I will build it with a 1/8th each of ply and alluminum across the transom instead of the 1/4 ply.

Hahaha... No Phil... I'm sorry. Re-reading my post, that came out wrong... I didn't mean that I was disappointed... Just that I should let you know so you'd be aware on future layups. Sorry if that came across wrong! My bad.

I also meant that I am very happy with the boat, and might order another... I WILL take you up on the reinforcement though! Might need it with this West Coast crowd!

[Darin Jordan]

Finally getting back to making some progress... Shaped the transom carbon piece and epoxied in the replacement plywood doubler section...

[Darin Jordan]

It's safe to say that some projects in my shop are LONG term projects!

Finally getting back to work on my Stealth last night... Laminating on some Carbon and glass.

20160114_210238.jpg

20160114_210256.jpg


To get the cure nice and hard, I found a second used for some of the cardboard boxes in my shop... makeshift heated curing box...

20160114_212446.jpg


This is what it looks like this morning... Now, time to sand and fill and sand and fill and sand and fill...

20160115_043425.jpg

20160115_043434.jpg

[TRUCKPULL]

Darin

You forgot the last -Fill and Sand

Larry

[Darin Jordan]

FINALLY.... Sanding done... Filling done... more sanding done... AND...

Setup a paint-booth in my garage last week and spent the week's sparse free-time priming, painting, and clear-coating... And the results are.... 4-Hulls ready to start assembling, including my PT Stealth... Turned out pretty nice!

20160628_183532.jpg

20160629_191044.jpg

20160630_191346.jpg

20160630_191355.jpg

20160702_183031.jpg

[Shooter]

Nice. I notice you have the 'eyes' on the back of the boat. I remember seeing either Brian or Tyler's boat with the eyes on front. Is this so you can watch them behind you???

[Darin Jordan]

Nice. I notice you have the 'eyes' on the back of the boat. I remember seeing either Brian or Tyler's boat with the eyes on front. Is this so you can watch them behind you???

Hahahaha... that's funny... I'm not really sure WHY I put those in the back... I think this was the first boat I applied them too and I was just kind of shy about putting them up front. No more, however!

Glad you tapped into this thread... I was JUST getting the hardware mounted back on the boat and forgot to post the updates...

Hardware_Install_001.jpg

Hardware_Install_002.jpg

[skiking1739]

I believe strut is dead flat and 3/4" deep as per Phil T.

It's apart right now but, 3/4" to start works fine.

I would like to revive this old thread on the Phil Thomas Stealth Hydro, and in particular, the method used to determine the 3/4" depth and how it is calculated.

Thanks SkiKing.

[Darin Jordan]

Finally got her all wrapped up last night... H/W and electronics installed. All setup presently for P-LTD Sport, but a quick motor swap and it's ready for P-Sport.

20160714_174647.jpg

20160714_174657.jpg

20160714_174708.jpg

20160714_182146.jpg

[Fluid]

I would like to revive this old thread on the Phil Thomas Stealth Hydro, and in particular, the method used to determine the 3/4" depth and how it is calculated....

You are too late, the OP revived it a couple weeks ago. Strut depth is found by trial and error. It depends on hull design, prop used, CG location, distance from transom, etc. If you have no idea, then a starting point is the same depth as the tunnel depth at the back of the sponsons. Adjust from there as needed.



.

[Darin Jordan]

I would like to revive this old thread on the Phil Thomas Stealth Hydro, and in particular, the method used to determine the 3/4" depth and how it is calculated.

Thanks SkiKing.

You are too late, the OP revived it a couple weeks ago. Strut depth is found by trial and error. It depends on hull design, prop used, CG location, distance from transom, etc. If you have no idea, then a starting point is the same depth as the tunnel depth at the back of the sponsons. Adjust from there as needed.

Yes... Sorry... didn't see this reply. I'm not sure exactly where my strut is at the moment. "Where it needs to be", I think would be my best answer. I'll be measuring it this next week, AFTER I'm done racing at the NAMBA FE Nats. By Round 4, I'll likely have it where it needs to be. BUT, each hull is a little different. They're composite, so no two are exactly alike. And, may depend on power system, etc., because speed potential will be determined by that. A P-LTD system may need a shorter strut height than a full P-power system. The later will be going FASTER, so you may need to lift the tail end up a little more.

[Darin Jordan]

For the 2016 NAMBA FE Nationals, I'm skipping P-LTD Sport Hydro this time around. Decided to just enter P-Sport Hydro instead. ("P" power class is up to 4-cell Lipo batteries, any motor(s), 34" maximum hull length, 10,000mAh maximum battery capacity.

In other words... really fast!

Swapped out the LIMITED system for a new TP Power USA 4050 motor, about twice the power of a LIMITED system.

Also installed a Spektrum SR4000T Receiver that's been conformal coated to resist water and has Real-time Telemetry, which should aid in tuning.

Some FAST boats out there. I'll do my best to keep up!

20160802_000001.jpg

20160802_000002.jpg

[longballlumber]

I am amazed that you can run the motor that far back and keep the boat on the water. If you have the info readily available; where do yo balance at RTR?