MHZ Mystic 1380mm build

[Remmie81]

Thats not a bad idea, will do as my last way out if I cant fit them any other way, I would then cut the same pattern in them as on the plates but have them light up when the ESC's are armed :)

Now that would be awesome!

[nata2run]

Ok Fellas, Almost done. I decided to go with my orriginal plan and mount the ESC's under the carbon. To make it work without extending the wires I just had to spin the ESC' around and move them up towards the front, I didnt want to do that before but it should be ok. Still plenty room for playing with COG. I had to make the stand off's longer too. for that I just used some aluminiun tube that slides over the exsisting mounts, coated with the Dupli Metal Cast purple. Just some final touches and a bit more water proofing "just to be sure" and we're off for maiden.

Close up motor and cooling.jpgMHZ 138 Looking down.jpgMHZ 138 Looking in.jpgSpacers & ESC 1.jpgSpacers 1.jpg

[Remmie81]

I would cool the ESC's first and then the engines. This will also make less tubing visible ;-)
Although you got some slik tubing there

[nata2run]

I would cool the ESC's first and then the engines. This will also make less tubing visible ;-)
Although you got some slik tubing there

Very fair comment, how ever nothing is confirmed yet. Whatever is most warm gets the first cooling. So far I just had a feeling the Lehners would run warm. But will see.

[drwayne]

Very fair comment, how ever nothing is confirmed yet. Whatever is most warm gets the first cooling. So far I just had a feeling the Lehners would run warm. But will see.

ESC first, then motors.
I will not fix the esc if you burn them !
W

[nata2run]

@ doc, motors were most warm in the small cat, so they have cooling first. Now everything has same temperature on the water, and nothing burnt yet. I seem to burn stuff when not on the water.

[drwayne]

@ doc, motors were most warm in the small cat, so they have cooling first. Now everything has same temperature on the water, and nothing burnt yet. .

Oh Kenny
Nooooooooooooooooo.

6S5A to 1717 for 7+ minutes is a play setup, M8.
Your 'warm' motors wouldnt melt ice !

Go to 'general Q&A threads' and look for more experienced replies to the same question.
A loaded setup requires esc first.


.

[nata2run]

Oh Kenny
Nooooooooooooooooo.

6S5A to 1717 for 7+ minutes is a play setup, M8.
Your 'warm' motors wouldnt melt ice !

Go to 'general Q&A threads' and look for more experienced replies to the same question.
A loaded setup requires esc first.


.

I'm aware that delicate electronics "ESC's" need better control/cooling than plain copper wires inside a motor, it's logic for cage chickens. In my curent setup to keep the temps down/cold, this worked better. (For me) Im by no means arguing whats best for this setup. Of cause when you push the electronic side of things, it will need the most cooling, plus I believe the motors can handle alot more heat than the ESC's.

[nata2run]

Good morning everyone , this is your captain speaking
Ok I have re wired all the cooling to feed the ESC's first "that will keep the Doc happy" specially if it blows, then he can fix without feeling bad, that it was wrongly wired. So shes done as far as I can tell, and hoping for a maiden this weekend yeahhh..

[Chrisg81983]

Looks very good and good luck with the maiden run take a video please. What is the positioning of your lipos and are you running 1 or 2 packs to each motor

[nata2run]

Looks very good and good luck with the maiden run take a video please. What is the positioning of your lipos and are you running 1 or 2 packs to each motor

Thank you chris, lipos will be in the sponsons as usual, COG start around 35% and work my way up. 6s1p 5000 per side to start off with, then 8s1p 5000 per side if all good.

[Chrisg81983]

Are you putting any type of lipo trays in along with straps to hold them in place. Kent I have been told as well from many creditable people that esc's will take more heat than the motor. At the heat range a motor starts to demagnetize itself a esc can run fine at. It kinda makes sence but I need to look into it further.

[nata2run]

Are you putting any type of lipo trays in along with straps to hold them in place. Kent I have been told as well from many creditable people that esc's will take more heat than the motor. At the heat range a motor starts to demagnetize itself a esc can run fine at. It kinda makes sence but I need to look into it further.

Chris, I'm no expert here. But I didn't think the electronics could handle running very hot, I have seen caps and other components blow at 80-85c (I consider that hot) I guess I have heard so many things I dont know what to believe? sometime what should makes sence, make no sence at all. All I can say is, that I dont push any components to the stage of getting burning hot. Never blown anything inside a boat (outside yes LOL) I wouldnt push my components to the limit for an extra 5-8mph as I dont race, this is for pure fun on the lake. So again if the motors starts to heat up, and ESC's are cool, I'll swop the cooling again :) easy done.

Regarding lipos, Im making a slide system when my carbon gets here. till then, just using pool noodle and Velcro to hold in place as I test.

Oh on a side note, SF240HV $250
Lehner 2250 $600
Hmm, wonder what I would look after the most

[Chrisg81983]

I am on the same page as you

[srislash]