As thin as that hull is made I would ck the bottom for hook before starting. If there is any that must be repaired before building. After that to avoid hook developing after the build I'd either ad cf cloth or extend the stringers all the way to the transom. Now sometimes after adding cf cloth that process will pull the bottom of the boat up during drying. I'd ck the hull bottom again after adding the cf and rails. Hook is a very common problem in these light thinly constructed hulls from HK.
Shes a clean slate and I dont intend on adding rails.
I do see what was mentioned about the plywood not sitting flat on the transom. I got some misc epoxy globs and epoxy radius's to sand out. Going to set the boat up on the transom level and toss in some finishing epoxy to self level it. Then epoxy it all together.
Ok I got plenty of free time since I lost my job, so its time to commence the building! Ive got a few boat projects and Im going to start knocking them out.
However I need some parts for this build. I ended up getting the Speedmaster 1/4" Nitro version as it will bolt right up where the 3/16" was.
My dilemma is Im not sure if I should just go with the adj. aluminum servo mount and make my own stuffing tube support/Buy the Kintec one
-or-
Buy the $16 kintec carbon fiber servo mount and t-bar mount and the appropriate t-bar?
I will be running straight brass NO TEFLON on this one. Is the T-Bar oiler useful? In my experience when you add oil to grease the grease breaks down quicker. Is it infact oil being put in those cups???
Any idea on props for 8S and 6S scenarios? I got a 3/16" propshaft.
Need to order parts ASAP, so your valuable input is appreciated.
The "white stuff" is a product called corematt. when used correctly its a great material. For best results it must be bedded on wet glass, then wet out and rolled with another wet layer of glass on top.(sandwiched) This must all be done in one layup. The end result is a solid laminate with two skins working togeather in tension and compression..... basic i-beam theory. Should be lighter and stronger than a solid layup of the same thickness.(no core) you can buy corematt from 1mm thickness up to about 8mm. If it was put in correctly, you would have had to grind it out. A piece of 3mm corematt laminated with ordinary polyester resin between two layers of 600 gram chopped matt will stop a .22 bullet at point blank range no problem!
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