I knock a couple inches out of my MG with a Castle Ice 240 and logged a 2 volt decrease in voltage ripple.I love that controller.
Shockwave 36 FE Rebuild
Collapse
X
-
Any luck finding your heat problem ?
So can you see a big difference in how the boat runs or handle from before,
You took out the stringers by the motor and lowed the cells ?
I ran mine today and with two TP6600-2SPP65 cells and its still on it back 2" of the hull at 3/4 throttle.
Think I will mark and move the strut down some and check speeds again.
Comment
-
Well, since I had the heat problems with two different sets of batteries, I believe it was the battery connections coming out of the ESC. So I replaced them. I also shortened the motor wires. They are Castle Neus so it was okay to do that. I won't be able to run it until this weekend. Thiejob thing actually interferes with my personal life. LOL.
Yes, I see a huge difference in the way it handles. Before with the motors up higher, it was very top heavy and rolled very easily.
Lenny, I forgot, what motor are you running?
Comment
-
Its the 9xl 1898kv with a turnigy 120 esc and added caps.
What is your strut to prop dog spacing on yours ?
Comment
-
Ok, Same hear.
I should rebuild mine now, Every thing was just hot glue in for testing to see how it would run.
I was thinking of trying my t600 1400kv in it on 4s just to hear it run and test.
Comment
-
I also changed the turn fins as you suggested.
One of the things I love about it after I removed the stringers, radio box, etc, is all of the room you have in it!
Your t600 should be perfect for 6S in it. (That is, if the hull can handle the speed!)
I am looking forward to finding out!
Comment
-
Ran a M447, moved the batts back an inch, and got 42.7mph with no heat issues whatsoever. (I do think I had the drive dog to close to the stinger before). Next run, I had radio trouble. After I got that fixed, I moved the batts all the way back. Good news is that it flew, it seemed a lot faster. I did not have my GPS in it. The bad news is I rolled it (at the far end of the pond of course), by the time I got down there, it had started taking on water.
Thank God for the pool noodles in the bow, and Jim Osbourne and Ronnie, who took almost an hour from running their gassers to help me rescue it.
IMG_0908.jpg
Comment
-
Hey, So what happen.
Are the esc and motor ok.?
My motor shaft just bent not sure why yet.
Time for me to try something else in it,
I have a 4074 2200kv or the t600 1400kv not sure.
Motor mount is a pain in the ass to get to the screws, I need find a better way.
Oh and nice EKOS cat modding.
Comment
-
I got my EKOS freshly built from KeithBradley last night and I was working on that. Turns out one of my ESCs for it was bad, so I did not get to run it. BTW, sorry about the shipping issue on yours.
I had sprayed the motor and servo with CorrosionX last week, took the ESC and Tactic receiver out of the rice today. Hooked them up and believe it or not, they all work fine - even the receiver! Not bad for being totally submerged for over an hour. I had waterproofed the receiver and ESC with liquid electrical tape.
I would love to run tomorrow, but we are going to get hammered by a winter storm with rain tonight and tomorrow. 85 degrees here yesterday 53 tomorrow. Wind at 25 mph with gusts up to 40.
Comment
-
It might help if I read your whole post. Sorry. Thanks, my EKOS is a work of art.
BTW, I came up with a great way today to tighten hard to reach motor screws (like the sponsons of an EKOS). I have the usual L shape hex wrenches about 2 inches long. I just stuck it in the end of a piece of scrap brass tubing I had and glued it. It worked great tightening the motor screws. No more had cramps. It tokk me an hour to do one before i came up with this. I did the remaining three in 5 minutes. I am sure I am not the first one to come up with this.
IMG_0909.jpgIMG_0910.jpg
Comment
-
Whatever works! I have a flex shaft with a female hex to put bits into on one end, and a male hex on the other end that I stick into a cordless drill. I can usually bend that in behind motors to run bolts in and out but it's still not easy.
I'm inclined to come up with something better for twin setups. I haven't come up with anything grand yet, but I have considered locktiting studs into the motor and using nuts. That would be easier, but it wouldn't look as nice.
Comment
-
Whatever works! I have a flex shaft with a female hex to put bits into on one end, and a male hex on the other end that I stick into a cordless drill. I can usually bend that in behind motors to run bolts in and out but it's still not easy.
I'm inclined to come up with something better for twin setups. I haven't come up with anything grand yet, but I have considered locktiting studs into the motor and using nuts. That would be easier, but it wouldn't look as nice.
Comment
-
The stud trick is great in hard to get to spots.I've done that on a few in the past.Way easier to put a nut on the fumbling trying to find the threads on the motor.Originally posted by keithbradley View PostWhatever works! I have a flex shaft with a female hex to put bits into on one end, and a male hex on the other end that I stick into a cordless drill. I can usually bend that in behind motors to run bolts in and out but it's still not easy.
I'm inclined to come up with something better for twin setups. I haven't come up with anything grand yet, but I have considered locktiting studs into the motor and using nuts. That would be easier, but it wouldn't look as nice.
Comment
? ONLY IF THEY WORK 

Comment