t600 powered 32" bling rocket

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  • 6BOOST
    Senior Member
    • Sep 2011
    • 286

    #16
    Is this pictured mirrored or do you have the rudder on the opposite side to what most people generally run? I don't think it makes any difference for sport running, just racing where right turns are more common? Also typically a lot of experienced guys I have seen/spoken to seem to run the strut offset 1/8" to the right of center to account help with prop torque.

    6BOOST
    6boost Turbo Manifolds, Australia's number 1 turbo kit specialist and manufacturer

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    • Boaterguy
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Apr 2011
      • 1760

      #17
      yeah i thought about doing an offset, but I think if i have problems with prop torque i'll put a shim in
      the rudder is on the left side looking from the back of the boat, it's like that on my hydro and it works so i thought it might
      the trim tabs are actually 1/8" off the bottom.
      Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt View Post
      You have to telescope the strut nose down in size. I think the 078 tube is 5/32 or one step up from 1/8".
      another excuse to go to the hobbyshop!

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      • Rumdog
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Mar 2009
        • 6453

        #18
        Dude, you need the rudder on the right (starboard) side on a mono. Also, dont use a drill press. use a hand drill. You can use a hobby knife if nothing else to make small dimple so the drill doesn't wander.

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        • Rumdog
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Mar 2009
          • 6453

          #19
          Also, make sure you use a thrust bearing on the motor. The little snap ring wont take any axial load.

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          • Boaterguy
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Apr 2011
            • 1760

            #20
            i don't have a thrust bearing, will my LHS have em?
            i am going to reverse the rudder and the other water pickup will go on the other side.
            come to think of it, i'm running a wire drive so the load should be on the strut

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            • Rumdog
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Mar 2009
              • 6453

              #21
              The load can go at the strut if you want, but you'll prob. need a bearingized strut or suitable thrust bearing between the DD and strut. Also, you shouldnt need more than one pickup. It's just going to cause drag.

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              • Boaterguy
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Apr 2011
                • 1760

                #22
                i know i dint need the pickup, but i just don't like the idea of splitting or running through the esc then the mount
                i have a teflon washer on the strut, drive dog will be touching the washer which will be touching the strut

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                • Boaterguy
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Apr 2011
                  • 1760

                  #23
                  flooded stuffing tube
                  I have a big plan for running the wire drive that will be better explained with pictures when I get the materials and get started, wire will be supported most of the way, the CF tube is not epoxied in ATM in case it has to be cut down or exchanged with a longer one.
                  I am kinda pushing it with the rudder close to the prop, when full left is applied, the prop is behind the rudder by only about 1/2"
                  aside from that, so far the build is going good.
                  edit: the strut is not crooked, although it looks that way it's just because the line was drawn improperly.
                  Attached Files

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                  • Rumdog
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Mar 2009
                    • 6453

                    #24
                    Ah, you're movin on her now! The T-600 is a powerhhouse. It'll move that hull nicely. I currently use one in a Rico mono. Performs as well or better than a CC/Neu 1520. It WIILL run hot, but it can handle it.

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                    • Boaterguy
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Apr 2011
                      • 1760

                      #25
                      best part is i picked two up for 80$
                      gave one away in the xmas exchange.
                      is it a better idea to build the driveline and then mount the motor?
                      how do you center the motor in the hull?

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                      • Brushless55
                        Creator
                        • Oct 2008
                        • 9479

                        #26
                        Hey what KV is your motor, and how many cells are you going to run?
                        thanks
                        .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

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                        • Boaterguy
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Apr 2011
                          • 1760

                          #27
                          it's the 1400kv
                          i'm running it on 2 gens ace 40C 5000mah 3S packs for 6S total.

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                          • Boaterguy
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Apr 2011
                            • 1760

                            #28
                            don't know how many of you have used the fightercat ESC's but i need a little help with programming
                            i am testing on 3S at the moment and throttle is at 0 (all the way at the bottom on a stick radio).
                            i have the endpoints on automatice and when i give throttle im not getting any spinning from the motor.
                            this is two seperate ESC's and i hae tried with two radios, so i'm pretty sure it's somewhere in the programming of the controller

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                            • Boaterguy
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Apr 2011
                              • 1760

                              #29
                              current mock up
                              nothing is glued in at the moment, suggestions?
                              Attached Files

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                              • LarrysDrifter
                                Big Booty Daddy
                                • May 2010
                                • 3278

                                #30
                                Since I have to experience with flooded tubes, I have a question. Should there be such a large gap between the collet and stuffing tube? I know the wire can take a slight bend and be okay.

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