Darin's Vac-U-Pickle

[flyboy320]

the solinger hardware is probably the best choice for this size boat,very light and easy to install

Heath

Can the rudder arm be turned upside down and swapped to the other so the rudder is on the left side of the prop? Can't really tell by looking at a picture of it.

The reason I ask is I see the boat is designed to have the rudder servo on the left side "Pre-drilled servo box in port rib made to fit a HiTec HS-225BB Mighty Mini Servo."

EDIT: Well just found out on another board that it can be mounted on either side...

[Doug Smock]

Can the rudder arm be turned upside down and swapped to the other so the rudder is on the left side of the prop? Can't really tell by looking at a picture of it.

The reason I ask is I see the boat is designed to have the rudder servo on the left side "Pre-drilled servo box in port rib made to fit a HiTec HS-225BB Mighty Mini Servo."

EDIT: Well just found out on another board that it can be mounted on either side...

How long is that rudder?

Doug

[flyboy320]

How long is that rudder?

Doug

From OSE web site,

Rudder blade below the rudder bracket measures 3" x 1"

[Doug Smock]

I'm afraid that rudder is too short. You need to go with a 3.5" rudder minimum.

Doug

[flyboy320]

I'm afraid that rudder is too short. You need to go with a 4.5" rudder minimum.

Doug

Doug, I see on one of your previous posts, you used a 3.5" Fuller rudder. Was that OK, or is the larger 4.5" you mention above recommended?

[Doug Smock]

Typo flyboy, thanks for catching it.
Here are some tips for painting styrene,

http://www.vac-u-boat.com/Painting%20Tips%20Menu.htm

Here are a few pics of the setup we used on the prototypes.

Doug

[Jeff Wohlt]

Great hull for wire drives. Easy to put in and I will be running a .078 in one.

[Darin Jordan]

Great hull for wire drives. Easy to put in and I will be running a .078 in one.

Jeff,

Just so you know (if you don't already have one in your hand), the stock motor location on these is going to necessitate a pretty steep motor angle and as a result, a fairly arched stuffing tube... I was thinking of wire also, but if I do it, I'll be mounting the motor way forward to relax the shaft... Might be more work than I want to do, so I may just build it straight up and as designed (for one... ) and just have some fun with it...

[flyboy320]

What size flex cable are you thinking for this, .13 or .15?

[Darin Jordan]

What size flex cable are you thinking for this, .13 or .15?

I don't put anything less than .150 in any boat that is going to run open 2S or higher... I'd do .150 in this boat if I were doing flex for an LSH setup or N2... I am likely going to set mine up for LSH with an SV27 motor (our club rules) and I may follow Jeff's lead and use a .078 Wire... That's what I'm using in my 1/10th scales and it seems plenty strong... If I decide to just keep it simple and build it as designed, however, I'll use .150 cable... reliable, simple to work with, and strong... K.I.S.S. basically...

[flyboy320]

Thanks Darin...

[Doug Smock]

Darin is right.

Jeff, Darin,
I did some checking in the shop when I saw your posts on the wire drive.
It looks like moving the motor forward and the cells (LiPos) back you will still be able to get the CG where you need to with some adjustment.
The only issue maybe if your two cell packs are wider than about 1 3/4"

Doug

[Diegoboy]

Darin is right.

Jeff, Darin,
I did some checking in the shop when I saw your posts on the wire drive.
It looks like moving the motor forward and the cells (LiPos) back you will still be able to get the CG where you need to with some adjustment.
The only issue maybe if your two cell packs are wider than about 1 3/4"

Doug

Would you be so kind as to illustrate this one?

[Jeff Wohlt]

Maybe the way it is set up...my Classic only has about a 7" wire drive in it and a decent angle.

Wire drives need not be straight. They can run in cats just fine with a nice j bend. It just needs a nice bend and I keep it straight several inches from the strut nose.

I do not know what angle the motor mount is but I have not had any issue with a hydro yet. Dougs Classic has a pretty good angle and I relaxed it a bit but it runs out great with .062 wire running a 4T plett and 12 cells and 642.

I just think when looking at efficiency the smaller wire has it...granted...it has to stay together. .078 or 2mm wire will hold up to 32 cells and 140 mph...we already know that.

I will get one of those and see what is up. I like my motors forward on hydros....this puts the motor torque more on the front sponsons.

[Doug Smock]

Would you be so kind as to illustrate this one?

No,
Let Jeff or Darin do it. After all, they are the ones who want to re- invent the wheel.

JUST KIDING,
I'll try to post a pic tomorrow afternoon, unless Darin beats me to it.

Keep in mind that the hull has some extra reinforcement where the motor is
designed to go. This will need to be addressed if you move it forward.
Darin and Jeff have already come up with a plan for this I bet.

Doug
PS Just a bit of background.
Phil's boat varies only slightly from Garry's original design. The motor was placed where it is because that is where we could get the CG right with LSH and N-2 setups with both NiMH and LiPos.