Norwegian CF daytona!

[fastblack]

hello you should get a datalogger like eagletree or etti, then you can have the logger connected while you do a full speed pull and check amp draw after the pull.. do not run more than couple of pulls before you check.. then you can see if amp draw is more than 80amps and if it is you need too get a smaller prop or less lipo cells.. if its less than 80amps you can use bigger props or more lipo cells. a rule is if you put in more lipo cells with same prop amp draw will be bigger then with less lipo cells, if you want same amp draw with more lipo cells you need too get a smaller diameter prop.

[Peacock8]

Lasse: What plastic props should I get?

Fastblack. I talked to Benjamin at Fightercat abot the engine esc combo. Only wildcard is the props. I noticed that most guys used those props on this boat so I got them.
Datalogger would be fun to have.

Ørjan.

[fastblack]

x442 is a very nice prop but you should use a datalogger thats the only way too get the answer if you will be able too prop up or add more lipo cells.. if you need some cheap test props buy the CF (carbonfibre) props here on ose 40mm and 45mm could be something...

[lars_01]

Just like fastblack said, start with OSE CF-props 40mm R+L. Run for 1 min and check the temp on motor(endplate) batts and esc. If it´s ok, run for an other min and check again. Still ok, run for 2-3 min. If parts are ok, try the X442´s!

[Peacock8]

Yeah, I´ll order a couple of those test props. Looks good!

I´ve been fiddeling around with how to angle the motors down against the stingers to get minimal bend on the flex shaft for a while now. Contemplating several different designs. I think I have found the best option. I use the standard motor mount from Fightercat. I don´t use the supplied plate. I make my own. It´s longer and fits the sponsons yet angling the motor mount against the center . I also plan on making a stand that supports the back of the motor. I´ll make this out of 2mm CF sheet. The back support will be 2mm CF sheet sandwiched into 6mm. It will get supports along the length of the plate. The back support will also be angled at the same degree the motor will be.
I have to make the back support removable somehow. Not yet found a solution on that. I´m sure it will come to me :D

Enough chitchat.. Pics that illustrate it better. This is just a cardboard mockup.






You can see there isn´t much bend at all where the flex shaft will be.
If anyone has some input or tips. It would be greatly appreciated.
I also have plans for some really nice ESC stands that will look really neat!


Ørjan.

[CornelP]

I installed the motors a bit further to the front, as this hull needs to be nose heavy. With the twin 3674 2200kv on 4S each and 42mm Octuras I got a decent 89kph, super stable.

[Peacock8]

Nice! I see you run one battery, if the picture is correct. I will run with two. So i probably got more weight coming up front. I heard the cog should be around 10" from the transome. I have a hard time keeping it that far back. I´m not totally set on the placement of the motor support. The longer back I have it the less bend on the flex shaft.
I´m waiting for 2mm CF sheets now, so I think i will make the esc stands.


Ørjan.

[HYDROJERRY]

did you get your struts even with the bottom of the hull??? no matter what i do mine are aiming down alittle even with them adjusted all the way up.

[Peacock8]

No, they are aiming down on mine too. Only way would be to shim it. But I don´t know if it´s necessary yet. I believe it pushes the nose down.

Ørjan.

[HYDROJERRY]

I have a strong feeling we both need to make shims for them so we have full range of adjustment,,all the boats ive ever made they all seam to have the strut perfectly level with the bottom of the ride pads ( sponsons) or adjusted up just a hair to rase the nose of the boat,,

[Peacock8]

maybe, I saw in one thread don´t remember which that the guy building had shimmed in between. Do you have an idea on how to get it done? What to use?

Ørjan.

[HYDROJERRY]

i just did mine, used two small thin washers and drilled out the centers so the same size hole as the hole in the stingers and epoxyed them on but then i had to grind the top edge of the stingers where you adjust them at cuz when i held them on they would hit the floor of the hull,,then i put alot of clear silicone around the bolt holes to keep water out now the stingers are way up but i can now adjust them down, dont no how good it will work but im hopeful!!! PS now the hull sits even on the table, before the stingers were keeping the hull off the table..

[Peacock8]

Okay, how much do 2 have to shim to get it even 2mm? Thought about using a 2mm CF plate and grind it down on top.

Ørjan.

[bruiser77]

IMG_3934.jpgthats what i did on my build. I use 2mm carbon fiber and made it the same shape as the stinger mount. then used a belt sander to get the desired angle. made a world of difference.

[Peacock8]

Yeah easiest solution for me, I'll try that when I get the plate.

Ørjan