Electrified x 4 build

[7500RPM]

I built 2 of these boats, and the only thing I did was go to an Automotive store and buy Clear Coat in a spray can, ( Not water base products ) and the touch up spray cans and painted the hulls. I still have them today! No Problems..

[Chenige]

I did the same with mine.

I do have some separation at some of the joints and a little water is getting in. From what I read most here do coat there wood boats with fiberglass or epoxy. Am I wrong?

[Boaterguy]

most do coat them. Make sure you use a non- waterbased glue unless you fiberglass it, and it's still a good Idea (I have learned my lesson the hard way)

[Chenige]

I used CA glue.

[Boaterguy]

That's good.

[7500RPM]

I did the same with mine.

I do have some separation at some of the joints and a little water is getting in. From what I read most here do coat there wood boats with fiberglass or epoxy. Am I wrong?

I never had that problem, I always backed up all my joints on the inside with lots of medium CA and let it flow the entire length of the hull, and did the outside the same but with thin CA.
Never had a joint come apart, even when driven over by my sons boat, just prop marks on the wood.

[Chenige]

Well I finally have all 4 boats primed and smoothed. Using rustoleum spray cans. Lots of sanding and a little auto body putty to get them perfectly smooth over the fiberglassed wood.

Each gets their own color scheme chosen by each kid. My son is going after some kind of Jamaican flag color scheme (green, red, yellow) with dreadlocks. Will see how that turns out.

Neighbor wants a wood looking boat so brown it will be.

I will be using the extra bright red paint we already have and probably splash it with whatever colors are left over.

Daughter is at camp but she wants neon colors.

Luckily Rustoleum comes in white and brown primer, all the colors they want, and clear coat.

[Chenige]

I like the thin CA on the outside seams. Too late now but will keep it in mind for next time.

[Chenige]

Well, I have been SCREWING around for the last 2 weeks trying to make the Rustoleum work. Forget about it. Do not use it unless you are doing a simple one color paint job and clearcoat!!!!!

I followed directions and more. I let it sit in the sun and waited a week and additional colors just lifted the previous colors. One boat waited until I put on the clearcoat to lift.

Anyway I had to strip 3 boats back to fiberglass and will continue with the paint methods in the next post.

[7500RPM]

I built 2 of these boats, and the only thing I did was go to an Automotive store and buy Clear Coat in a spray can, ( Not water base products ) and the touch up spray cans and painted the hulls. I still have them today! No Problems..

[Chenige]

This is my Daughters boat. the paint systems are a mixture which worked great but may not have!

primer: rustoleum (I would not do again, caused issues on other boats)
bottom: PPG Omni MBC white with Omni Quick clear/hardener over top (had this paint from 10 years ago)
top: Mirage ice by Dupli-color (base, color/sparkle/clear) lacquer

Omni paint is gone or going away to be replaced by Shop-line. I was able to use shopline hardener for the old clear coat.

Mirage paint is easy to use and cool but you really need to get the boat in light to see the rainbow flop effect. I would recommend using one of the other color choices for more punch.

[Chenige]

Here is my boat. I had 3 different colors of rustoleum on it and the rustoleum clear lifted the underpaints so I stripped it and ended up putting another coat of thinned fiberglass resin on it.

I have a couple boats with this paint scheme. Bought pints of blue/red/yellow/white years ago. Just found it in a closet!

primer: PPG DAU primer surfacer
paint: PPG Omni BBC blue/red/yellow with white bottom
clear: PPG Omni quick clear / hardener

This one really shines. I need to find out if I can put this urethane clear over lacquer. Would love to clear Margaret's boat.

One lesson I learned was to cut out the hatch after priming and BEFORE painting. I ended up using a blue sharpie to touch up the sides of the hatch cover and hatch opening.

[Chenige]

Next step was to drill out the hole for the stinger. The one I built 12 years ago had awful prop walk and I really had to bend the stinger to compensate.

So per some advice here I put it to the right about 3/16". I also put a little angle into the stinger. Will have to run it and see how it does.

Inside you can see all the various tubes for the driveshaft. Once I test and it works I will glue it in.

[Chenige]

Here is my component list.

motor:Tacon 540 2950kV http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m26-car-3650-2950.html
battery:Turnigy 3S, 5000 mAh, 25C http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=15006
esc: Hobby King 90A ESC 4A UBEC http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17531


I made up the motor mount out of aluminum sheet and bent on a brake. It is attached to the hull using GOOP. I have a bunch of cooling coils I made up a long time ago for the motor.
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[Chenige]

Since I am building 4 of these needed to keep the cost down, did not know how many amps draw I will end up with, so I went with a $35 non cooled 90/120 ESC. Should be plenty big enough?

I wanted to add cooling so I took a rectangular piece of tubing and JB welded in two round tubes. Then I used articsilver epoxy to glue onto the outer aluminum plate. Hopefully the oversized ESC and cooling will keep the temp down.

What is the max temp I should allow during a run?
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