Proboat shockwave 26 build

[kookie_guy]

So back to the build for a bit......

Here's the SV27R stinger strut. Not much of the 3/16" prop shaft is actually in there.


So I pressed 3 octura lead teflon bushings in the end, so the entire prop shaft is supported.


And on the other end I machined and pressed in a brass bushing for cable support. The ID is a little over .150"

[HYDROJERRY]

Nice job man that looks way better than what you had before and thank you for your help!!! Sorry for fudging your thread,,,keep up the good work..

[kookie_guy]

Not a problem, happy to help.

Here are some more pictures.....

New stuffing tube installed. Not using a teflon liner, so went with 3/16" brass tube. Look at the concentricity of the holes on the aluminum post. I think it's a little out on the bottom right (first pic). lol.




Here you can see where I filled in the hole from the old stuffing tube with the epoxy.


After filling the hole from the original hump, there was high/low spots, so I added some more epoxy on top to even it out, will sand it nice and smooth.

[Make-a-Wake]

The bored hole on the transom side of the stinger is for the teflon liner to slide into about an inch or so. This stops water from creeping up into the boat, this will cause you problems as it is.

[kookie_guy]

The bored hole on the transom side of the stinger is for the teflon liner to slide into about an inch or so. This stops water from creeping up into the boat, this will cause you problems as it is.

I was afraid that might happen. I'm gonna grease the snot out of it, and see what happens. If all else fails, I'm planning on using some fuel tube around the stuffing tube where the flex cable comes out in front of the motor. I've used this method in my blackjack26 with very good success after changing over the hardware.

[kookie_guy]

More work done....

Cable cleaned and prepped for soldering.


Cable after soldering.


Cable is cut. You can see the solder penetrated all the way to the core.

[kookie_guy]

Hardware is installed.




Spacers I made to raise the height of the servo. Had to make them because of clearance issues after I installed the new stuffing tube.


Here they are on the servo mounts.

[kookie_guy]

Before servo and ESC tray is installed.


After it's all installed.


Close up of cooling.


This is where I have to put the batteries for proper COG. Hopefully when I put the 2 part foam in the bow I can move them back a little bit.


All that's really left is the foam in the bow, and a the linkage from servo to rudder.

[d3lap]

Sweet build! Looking to make myself one!

[F1 madness]

Hi bud,looks loads better will certainly make a difference now and be more stable,the only other thing is you need to leave a 2-3mm gap between the teflon bush and stinger so when the cable tightens up under is becomes shorter,the way you have it now it load up the motor and become tight when under load.
But good job so far

[Make-a-Wake]

Yep, as F1 stated, leave a 2-3mm gap between the drivedog/bushing and the end of the stinger, when it tightens up it'll bind and cause lots of heat.......potentially causing issues.

[HYDROJERRY]

very cool and very clean looking like factory built!!! I may have to think about another vhull..

[kookie_guy]

Regarding leaving the gap....that's a delirin bushing in there right now. It should cause very little binding under heavy pressure. I can also put in 2 of them, so they will easily glide on one another under the heavy load. If I notice any high heat generation, I will space it out.

[Make-a-Wake]

The problem is not the actual friction of the bushing............the flex shortens under load and will cause it to burn into the top side of the stuffing tube near the transom which usually breaks the flex and leaves your prop at the bottom of the lake.............

[kookie_guy]

well I don't wanna do that, so I will make a gap. lol