My Mean Machine build

[Rich]

you could use these for the cooling lines when they come back in stock http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=aero-2014 This would mount on your transom and would connect the cooling supply line to the motor/esc. I would be careful of the esc placement. You might have to move it forward for battery placement.

Edit: FYI I have the hydro rudder 1.5" setback and the turning is fantastic. I can take a full speed turn with no problems

[dana]

you could use these for the cooling lines when they come back in stock http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=aero-2014 This would mount on your transom and would connect the cooling supply line to the motor/esc. I would be careful of the esc placement. You might have to move it forward for battery placement.

Edit: FYI I have the hydro rudder 1.5" setback and the turning is fantastic. I can take a full speed turn with no problems

rich, i looked at those but something about the simplicity of just running the line thru the hole works for me. all my boats are like this and watertight so im gonna stick with what i got as far as the esc, it can be moved with ease, and can slide all the way into the front of the boat if need be, but i think it will be ok where it is, where are your batt's? as for the rudder? i have the mono bracket with 2 1/4 setback. i hope this works as well as your setup ! the Seakiong esc has reverse, does anybody use this? does it affect forward performance of the esc do you know? thanks

[forescott]

Is that a piece of silicone tubing between the strut and drive dog? Won't that cause some unnecessary friction when the flex shaft spools up and shrinks?

[dana]

Is that a piece of silicone tubing between the strut and drive dog? Won't that cause some unnecessary friction when the flex shaft spools up and shrinks?

maybe a small amount, but i dont think enough to cause a problem. i will cut it a bit smaller to accomidate for the spooling, but i really want it there to help keep the strut bushing in its place. i do this to all my boats

[Rich]

rich, i looked at those but something about the simplicity of just running the line thru the hole works for me. all my boats are like this and watertight so im gonna stick with what i got as far as the esc, it can be moved with ease, and can slide all the way into the front of the boat if need be, but i think it will be ok where it is, where are your batt's? as for the rudder? i have the mono bracket with 2 1/4 setback. i hope this works as well as your setup ! the Seakiong esc has reverse, does anybody use this? does it affect forward performance of the esc do you know? thanks

Here is where my lipos end up. I noticed when I went up to a higher cell count I had to move the lipos forward more to prevent the hull from flipping.

[keithbradley]

Looks nice dana. I think your motor/prop choices will work well too
Did you get the epoxy into the holes on the bottom of the motor mount? They really help hold it down...that and having a decent contact patch on the hull.

[Fluid]

Re: Gap Between Drive Dog and Back of Strut

...i will cut it a bit smaller to accomidate for the spooling, but i really want it there to help keep the strut bushing in its place. i do this to all my boats

The SpeedMaster floating bushing is mature technology, it has been used and perfected for over 20 years. You are not going to "improve" on it by trying "new" ideas. You need to leave a gap between the drive dog and the back of the strut about the same length as the diameter of the flex cable. This allows the cable to shrink as it winds up and transfers thrust - it always shrinks - without the drive dog hitting the back of the strut and causing major friction. Putting the silicone tubing in that gap does several bad things: the tubing will swell to interrupt water flow to the prop and it will be pinched between the dog and strut, again raising friction. Too, it will restrict the bushing from floating and probably stop it from rotating - more friction and wear.

Lots of folks so not understand what is supposed to happen with the bushing and the flex cable even though it has been explained many times. It's your boat and you can do what you want, but you are not doing it correctly and are sacrificing proven benefits.

Regardless, it is a beautiful cat and I can't wait to see how it runs for you.





.

[dana]

Oh, well I guess I will take it out then. I'm new to fe so I dunno what I'm doing lol just wingin it. Yes I got epoxy in the holes nice.... I feel as tho it's on there good.

[dana]

heres my progress with the hatch. i cut lexan and a hole for the motor. i used an arizona iced tea bottle for the bubble because it was really rigid, glued it on and i think it looks pretty good. heres a pic of all of my boats too =)

[dana]

well i have completely finished this one. got batteries today too. 2s 5000 mah 40c. hobby king screwed me so i went elsewhere. got sky lipo packs 26.00 a piece shipped, and received them in 6 days.... nice....

[Jacked1]

I am diggin the sub hatch! And good idea with the bottle!

[dana]

hey thanks, i tried a few different ideas before i got to this.it's just really simple and works perfect, plus it looks clean

[dana]

I got out today to run her finally, and it was a TOTAL success. everything ran mint. water conditions were choppy and she handled it wonderfully. i couldnt be happier with how it turned out. leopard 4074 2200kv on 4s1p 40c lipos. x442/2 prop, i figure i had to have been somewhere high 40's to low 50's. i need a gps, but it was considerably faster than my ul-1. hull was bone dry on the inside. im charging some packs as i type this....nice...

[Rich]

Nice to hear Dana! I just ran mine with 5s2p, Leopard 4082 1500kv x442/2 and hit 45mph. Amp draw was 128 amps :)

[dana]

Nice to hear Dana! I just ran mine with 5s2p, Leopard 4082 1500kv x442/2 and hit 45mph. Amp draw was 128 amps :)

thats awesome was that on your first run? im impressed with how well the boat handles....