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  • Kevinlei324
    Member
    • Nov 2010
    • 33

    #16
    Yeah, I used the BEC...
    What can go wrong with BEC's? I hear a lot of you guys fearing the BEC as if it's a timed bomb, but have not heard any specific horror stories...

    Comment

    • lectriglide
      Senior Member
      • Nov 2009
      • 540

      #17
      Kevin,

      Next time your motor gets wet / water in it, "pickle" the motor. Take it out and spray WD-40 in one end and let it run out the other. This will displace all the water so it will not rust.
      Also, DO NOT attempt to run it after it gets wet until you have thoroughly dried the esc (could be blown but you never know for sure). Take the shrink wrap off, put it in the sun or blow a fan on it (I did for at least 12 hrs), unwrap your lipos and let them dry out real good too.

      Comment

      • Rich
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2008
        • 581

        #18
        Originally posted by Kevinlei324 View Post
        Yeah, I used the BEC...
        What can go wrong with BEC's? I hear a lot of you guys fearing the BEC as if it's a timed bomb, but have not heard any specific horror stories...
        The esc has to supply power to the bec, simply put it adds an additional load on the esc and makes it work harder. Not to mention if the bec goes something else could go with it.
        24 R/C vehicles and still counting...What budget?

        Comment

        • forescott
          Hopelessly Addicted to RC
          • Nov 2009
          • 3009

          #19
          The turnigy/seaking 180 is more than enough esc for your setup. I ran the castle 2200 in a 31-inch cat with a turnigy 180 on 4s lipo. The leopard/castle motors are VERY similar and you'll find that your setup can easily handle larger props. I ended up with am octura M545 which ran very cool and netted me 53mph. Keep that hatch sealed up good!!

          Comment

          • forescott
            Hopelessly Addicted to RC
            • Nov 2009
            • 3009

            #20
            I have NEVER had any issues with a BEC failing or causing an esc to burn. Especially on 4s. In many cases guys will push an esc to its limits by overpropping and the BEC can push an esc over the edge. I only run an rx pack if I'm running an esc at its max voltage, or feel like I'm pushing the limits of the esc. Just my 2-cents.

            Comment

            • keithbradley
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jul 2010
              • 3671

              #21
              Originally posted by Kevinlei324 View Post
              Makes a lot of sense to raise the strut...
              I'll upload the pics tomorrow...
              i ran with the x442 today, and the temps were great! Both the ESC and the motor stayed relatively cool.
              COG during today's run was at 27%. Next time, I'll try it at 33%

              I ran on rough waters today with 15 - 20 mph winds... It ran about 40 mph!!:rockon:

              HOWEVER, the rough waters flipped my boat and tossed it head over heels... Even in a straight pass... The hull was FLOODED. I think it burnt out the ESC...

              After I emptied the hull, I tried running the boat dry, and the motor stuttered... At first, I thought it was the motor because it got water in it. Even at a brief full throttle, the motor stuttered, then suddenly roared to full power, but BOTH the ESC and motor became warm REALLY fast... When I got home, I attached the motor with my truck ESC and it ran beautifully. But back on the drowned Swordfish, it stuttered, then ran smooth after a couple of seconds. Then...

              I feel like such an idiot running the boat on such rough waters...

              If I have to get another ESC, which would you guys recommend? I'm looking at either another Swordfish 200, or the Hobbywing 180a... I'm naturally skeptical of the Swordfish although I'm pretty sure it was my fault it went ...

              Did it actually puff smoke or just stutter the motor? It is an esc probalem, but if it hasnt made any smoke yet it is likely it can be fixed. A small amount of water can cause a short and do exactly what you are saying. It will cause the motor and esc to get hot fast too, Ive done it before.

              If it hasnt actually quit working yet, or it hasnt smoked, get some corrosion x (available at OSE) and after removing the shrink wrap, spray it thoroughly. Let it drip down onto the ground. Then try to spray it off with compressed air or pat it with paper towel. Its ok to have a little bit of corrosion x residue, just dont have it dripping wet.
              Then put it in a large ziplock bag full of dry rice, seal it, and let it sit for 2 days. The rice will act as a cheap dessicant and absorb the water from the esc.

              I wouldnt be skepticle of teh swordfish. The problem is caused by water and has nothing to do with the esc itself. A short will fry ANY esc, whether it be via water or other means. I have yet to have a swordfish esc fail, except for when it was dunked in the water.
              www.keithbradleyboats.com

              Comment

              • Steven Vaccaro
                Administrator
                • Apr 2007
                • 8932

                #22
                Contact me about getting it repaired.
                Steven Vaccaro

                Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

                Comment

                • Kevinlei324
                  Member
                  • Nov 2010
                  • 33

                  #23
                  Originally posted by keithbradley View Post
                  Did it actually puff smoke or just stutter the motor? It is an esc probalem, but if it hasnt made any smoke yet it is likely it can be fixed. A small amount of water can cause a short and do exactly what you are saying. It will cause the motor and esc to get hot fast too, Ive done it before.
                  Both... It's a result of my stupidity...
                  I will contact Steve to see if it is reparable.

                  Comment

                  • Kevinlei324
                    Member
                    • Nov 2010
                    • 33

                    #24
                    Originally posted by forescott View Post
                    The turnigy/seaking 180 is more than enough esc for your setup. I ran the castle 2200 in a 31-inch cat with a turnigy 180 on 4s lipo. The leopard/castle motors are VERY similar and you'll find that your setup can easily handle larger props. I ended up with am octura M545 which ran very cool and netted me 53mph. Keep that hatch sealed up good!!
                    O_O
                    That's good to know! I was going to try the Seaking 180.
                    I got the x642 prop at home that's smaller in diameter than your m545, but almost the same pitch. I'm waiting to try that out!

                    Comment

                    • Kevinlei324
                      Member
                      • Nov 2010
                      • 33

                      #25
                      Originally posted by lectriglide View Post
                      Kevin,

                      Next time your motor gets wet / water in it, "pickle" the motor. Take it out and spray WD-40 in one end and let it run out the other. This will displace all the water so it will not rust.
                      Also, DO NOT attempt to run it after it gets wet until you have thoroughly dried the esc (could be blown but you never know for sure). Take the shrink wrap off, put it in the sun or blow a fan on it (I did for at least 12 hrs), unwrap your lipos and let them dry out real good too.
                      Do I have to take apart the motor for this?
                      I'll try not to make the same mistake again...

                      Comment

                      • lectriglide
                        Senior Member
                        • Nov 2009
                        • 540

                        #26
                        Originally posted by Kevinlei324 View Post
                        Do I have to take apart the motor for this?
                        I'll try not to make the same mistake again...
                        NO just get it out of the boat.

                        Comment

                        • carlcisneros
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Jan 2010
                          • 1237

                          #27
                          Kevin;
                          Once you get the ESC sorted out and back to you or you get a new one,
                          remove the nuts and washers (if you use them) from your strut and rudder,
                          put a dab of clear silicon adhesive on each of the bolts on the inside of the hull then
                          install the nuts and washers again.
                          This helps in keeping water out of the hull.

                          also make sure your rudder pushrod seal is not leaking and also the water tubing where ever
                          it makes contact at the hull surface.

                          Carl

                          Comment

                          • Kevinlei324
                            Member
                            • Nov 2010
                            • 33

                            #28
                            Does Corrosion X just prevent corrosion when electronics get wet and displace water or does it actually waterproof electronics?

                            I know some people made comments on using CorrosionX, and using electrical spray to waterproof electronics, but has anyone tried regular gloss spray?

                            I know gloss spray is used to waterproof decals, so if it works against being exposed to salt water most of the time, wouldn't it theoretically help waterproof electronics as well? Just a random thought...

                            What is the most effective way that you guys found in waterproofing your stuff?

                            Comment

                            • Brushlessracev
                              Senior Member
                              • Oct 2010
                              • 154

                              #29
                              Originally posted by Kevinlei324 View Post
                              Does Corrosion X just prevent corrosion when electronics get wet and displace water or does it actually waterproof electronics?

                              I know some people made comments on using CorrosionX, and using electrical spray to waterproof electronics, but has anyone tried regular gloss spray?

                              I know gloss spray is used to waterproof decals, so if it works against being exposed to salt water most of the time, wouldn't it theoretically help waterproof electronics as well? Just a random thought...

                              What is the most effective way that you guys found in waterproofing your stuff?
                              I just used epoxy to seal all my electronics. 15 min works good just coat all the holes and boards. i did my eagle tree and it has got wet a few times and still works same with receiver.

                              Comment

                              • Kevinlei324
                                Member
                                • Nov 2010
                                • 33

                                #30
                                Alright.. It's been a LONG time since I've written here... I will post some pics soon... =P
                                Honestly, this would probably be the messiest job you guys have ever seen, but it's my first boat... This is the final setup:
                                ESC: Seaking 180a
                                Motor: Leopard 4074 2200kv (Drowned in water previously)
                                Batteries: 4s2p 5000mah Venom 35C
                                Props: x442 and x642

                                I ran BOTH the x442 and x642. Didn't really see a real difference in speed... I put a GPS in it, and clocked this thing at 49.6 mph with the x442, and 46.9 with x642, which I'd say is pretty consistent... Also, my MM keeps flipping... NOT because I'm turning at high speeds, but the head of the boat jumps out of the water, AFTER max speed is reached, and it has been traveling at max speed for a couple seconds. Any ideas? My boat is a HEAVY SOB. It sinks halfway into the water, and is REALLY slow until it gets up on plane.

                                Any words of wisdom? =)

                                Comment

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