Scratch-Built Hydro

[FloatDaBoat]

Fluid, your concerns are valid, as I’ve got my doubts also; I’m going to give it a try. Worst case is that it won’t provide sufficient cooling as envisioned, but the fix will be an easy one. As you suggested, I can always lower the pick-ups. Also, my strut design will incorporate a provision to add a prop wash generated cooling feed if required.
The idea originated as an attempt to keep in-water drag from required hardware to a minimum - - could be a Brain Dead deal, though. I do know that very little pressure will provide adequate flow. The main concern will be the volume provided by such a system.
Lots O Luck !!!

[Fluid]

If it does not work well enough, the fix is very simple. From the center of the sponson transom, drill a diagonal hole forward and down at 45* through the sponson bottom. Insert a length of brass tube with one diameter sticking out the bottom and glue in place. Sand the tubing flush with the sponson bottom and hook up to your existing intake tubing. Voila, a low-drag pick up using work that you've already done. Cleaner looking too.




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[FloatDaBoat]

Great Idea from Fluid

That’s ingenious. Since I haven’t attached the decks yet, that’ll be a lot easier to do beforehand. Thanks a TON for that suggestion, Fluid.
The only concern I’ll have then is - - will the pressure be too great & blow the silicone lines plumb off the brass tubing connections - - HAW !!! I can always decrease the intake opening size by inserting a piece of the next lower diameter tubing . . . .

[Fluid]

I can't take credit for the idea. The first time I actually saw that done was on one of Doug Twait Jr's early riggers, probably in 1995 or 1996 at the defunkt APBA FE Nationals in Federal Way, Washington. Brushed 05 motors with a servo-actuated brass blade switch for the "speed control". Geeze, that was awhile ago.....



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[FloatDaBoat]

I’ve seen those types of pick-ups used on mono hulls, but my senile mind would never have made the connection.

Thanks again, Fluid !!!

I guess it’s a fortunate circumstance that I was occupied with re-furbishing my buddies Cowboy Placards, or I’d probably already had the decks on the Hydro. Here’s a pic - - for all you Dallas Fans.

[FloatDaBoat]

Water Pick-Up Mod

I removed the Great Stuff foam & installed the pick-up tubes through both sponson bottom surfaces, as per Fluid’s suggestion. It was fairly easily done, but might have been a more difficult & frustrating task if the decks were already in place.

After I’ve sanded the tubes flush , I’ll add another 4 ounce layer of fiberglass to the ride pads to make it look nice & clean.

[Shooter]

Nice job!

[FloatDaBoat]

& from what I’ve seen of your stuff, it ain’t too shabby, either !!!

[FloatDaBoat]

Deck Works

I indexed both deck sheets to the hull with two .030” piano wire pins (X marks the spot of the front pin) & marked the glue lines before the bottom sheeting was installed. I brushed a coat of laminating resin on the undersides of the deck sheets - - there will be no bare wood areas, inside or out, when the build is complete.

The left side deck area has been sanded to final shape & is ready for the plywood deck to be epoxied in place.

DaPic . . . .

[carlcisneros]

If you haven't done so already, trim away MORE of the 2 part foam, because it can and often
DOES continue to expand if very warm/hot weather.

Carl
been there, done it, got the shirt,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[FloatDaBoat]

If you haven't done so already, trim away MORE of the 2 part foam, because it can and often
DOES continue to expand if very warm/hot weather.

Carl
been there, done it, got the shirt,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Yeah, been there also . . . .

It's Great Stuff insulation, & I let it expand for three days before trimming it. That was a week ago. I'll sand it down again so there's at least 1/8" clearance before attaching the decks.

[FloatDaBoat]

Deck Works

Decks epoxied in place ... will be trimmed/sanded to final shape after the Phthalo Blue transparent layers of fiberglass are applied ... too bad I wasn't able to personally select more nicely grained plywood - - such is the plight of having to purchase online !!!

[FloatDaBoat]

Decks Glassed & Canopy Trial

Since the grain of the decking plywood was so ‘Plain Jane’, I decided to try something to add a little flair without being too atrociously gawdy. After brushing on a coat of resin, I used the ‘Salt Shaker’ method to sprinkle silver, green, & blue extra fine glitter in a random pattern onto the resin before laying down the fiberglass cloth. The blue was actually too dark & went on denser than I‘d anticipated, even though I did a trial test sprinkling the glitter onto poster paper. If I had the opportunity to do it again, I’d eliminate the blue at this stage. Once that had set-up, I mixed the same glitter colors directly into the resin, then applied that as the filler coat. The camera didn’t quite pick up the sparkle of the glitter in the photo, though. The decks still require wet finish sanding to achieve a smooth surface.

I fabricated the male mold for the canopy a couple of weeks ago, in anticipation of it becoming too cold to do outside glass work. I like to use polyester resin for the base fiberglass layer on my hatches, as it’s a little stiffer & is easier to sand - - HAW !!! Apparently, I got a bad batch, as the polyester resin didn’t fully cure as it normally does. It remained tacky, & when I attempted to sand it, the sandpaper just clogged-up. So, to cure that problem (pun intended), I’ve had the hatch baking in the hot sun for the past week. It’s now good to go for sanding so that I can apply the remaining fiberglass layers using epoxy laminating resin. Took the pic to show what the completed hull profile will approximate.

[mm123521]

FloatDaBoat:


Great posts!!
Beautifull craftsmanship!!
Thanks for Shareing!!

Mark

[FloatDaBoat]

Thanks

Mark, thanks for the compliments.

But, I make plenty of mistakes. When I pitch a bitch about it to my wife, she says, “No-one will know about it except you”. Exactly - - I’ll KNOW !!!