Ummmmmmm.........
Is your Tx mode 1 or 2? Mode 1 is throttle ratchet on the left, mode 2 is throttle on the right. Mode 1 is us/Europe mode 2 is more common in japan & china.
If the throttle ratchet is on the right then you don't have any problems, you just need to plug your esc into the right channel.
Use the right stick for rudder (what would be the aileron movement)
Jon
-
4EXA Modding to 2EXA
Well still waiting on my HK order to get here, I made the mistake of not checking the EMS shipping box when I ordered, for 10$ more I woulda probably had my stuff last week.
Anyway Ive been pretty bored and started modding my 4EXA, I opened it up and put a screw to hold the right stick from moving up and down and a screw in the left stick to only allow up and down movement as well as a spring system(rubber band) to reset the stick to zero throttle.
This is the first plane radio ive owned and I didnt realize that the left stick could not be used for throttle in this way because it is for the aerloins, while the right stick up and down is throttle. Im gonna have to do a bit of rewiring. Im gonna swap the wires from the right up/down stick with the wires from the actuall throttle stick. But then again the right stick resets to the center position so this might not even work. I guess I should do some testing before I start cutting all the wires...
This is probably a bad idea i know but I can always put it back to normal if it dosent work how I want it to, I just hope it dosent void the warranty lol
Leave a comment:
-
I think I erased my PM over from groups. FWIW I've ran it both ways. First run were with one and then I put the pin back in to connect it to the USB programmer and never took it out. It works but I am NOT by any means saying it's better. Over on groups some claim that with two the BECs they will be fighting with one an other. Some says it's okay.
Leave a comment:
-
o.k..... To each his own.
As per Lucien, Electrical engineer and guru of Scorpion outrunners:
Originally Posted by Innov8tive
I am not sure which ESC you were running, but one thing that many people do not take into account is how much load the BEC circuit puts on the speed controller. With the newer digital servos, the current coming from the BEC circuit is quite high, and the heat generated by the BEC circuit is often greater than the heat generated by the FET transistors in the ESC. Most ESC's are around 95 to 98% efficient at full throttle, so for every 100 watts of energy that transfers through them, you only get 2 to 5 watts of heat. Running at reduced throttle settings is less efficient, and the loss in the controller can go up to 10 or 15% depending on the PWM frequency and the design of the ESC itself.
Typically, a heli with 325mm blades will pull around 10-12 amps in a steady hover and average around 20 to 25 amps in 3D flight, so in general sport flying you run about 130 watts of power through the ESC and in hard 3D you run an average of around 250 watts of power. If you had the throttle set at 100% with proper gearing, just flying around you dissipate 7-10 watts of heat through the ESC, and in hard 3D up to 25 watts of power.
Now if you look at the BEC circuit, you have around 11 volts available that you are stepping down to 5 volts, this means that 6 volts is being dropped across the BEC circuit. If your average servo draw is 2 amps, then you are gettin 12 watts of heat from the BEC circuit alone! If you have a buzzing servo, or a gyro with too much gain that causes the tail servo to constantly adjust, then that servo alone can pull over 2 amps of current, doubling the current through the BEC and pushing it to 25 watts of power just from the BEC circuit. When you combine this with the dead air inside a scale fuselage, the ESC is going to get hot!
By running a seperate switching type BEC, all this servo load is taken away from the BEC in the speed controller and this allows it to run much cooler. Another thing that can be done is to get a small 30mm cooling fan from a computer CPU heatsink and run it on the ESC. These things typically only pull arounf 0.05 to 0.10 amps of current, which is virtually nothing, and they can be connected directly to a 3-cell Li-Po battery, since they are designed to run on 12 volts. This will work wonders pulling the heat off the ESC and allow it to dissipate into the air.
Al of this can work together to make your ESC run way cooler and much happier!
A 55 or 60 amp Scorpion ESC would be adequate for this installation, but I would still recommend using a small cooling fan to stir the air around the ESC.
LucienLeave a comment:
-
According to Castle it does. I can't find the E-mail to confirm it but thats what I've been told.Originally posted by ray schrauwen View Post
I use my Aquastars with both BEC's connected through the Y with no problems.Leave a comment:
-
Thanks guys, ill let you know when everything else gets here, looking like the maiden run will have to wait till the end of next week though, maybe sooner if I get my stuff in. As far as the BEC goes ive never really liked them, even my external gives me alot of problems for some reason. I was just thinking that running the ESCs in a Y harness might work better, ill prob just run an extra battery. Maybe the castle BEC from OSE would work better then my HK one, itll have to wait as this build broke the bank..... Now hopefully it worksLeave a comment:
-
An awesome job on this unique project Chris , I am also curious on seeing the maiden run....................
Leave a comment:
-
Two Becs will not give you 6Amps or 6 volts. Use only 1 Bec, I suggest an external. More reliable imo.Originally posted by obrien008 View PostLeave a comment:
Disconnect the red wire out of the "Y" harness at the rx end and run a UBEC or if you prefer an rx pack.
Leave a comment: