Originally posted by detox
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Best Whiplash Lipo Location
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RE: vibration on longer drive cables... Many of the nitro racers mount the motor flat and put an "S" bend in the stuffing tube to reduce flop and harmonics. I have also seen some use additional strut bushings inside the stuffing tube itself and at the motor end.
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I'm working on mine now. two 2S Hyperion 5500's up front. They are HEAVY. Still need some nose weight! It will be even worse with my Flighpower 5000's....much lighter. DANG! Boat is built and closed up. too late for weight in the sponsons.Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
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Yep. It is hard to get the forward weight on this hull. You could drill a small hole in the bottom of the sponson tips and add BBs and epoxy. Then seal the hole up.Originally posted by sailr View PostI'm working on mine now. two 2S Hyperion 5500's up front. They are HEAVY. Still need some nose weight! It will be even worse with my Flighpower 5000's....much lighter. DANG! Boat is built and closed up. too late for weight in the sponsons.
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And Raydee said his boat has always ran wet I believe.Originally posted by LuckyDuc View Post
Raydee did quite a bit of testing with his and confirmed that the CG needs to be around 1" behind the sponsons to keep stability at 60+mph speeds. BUT like you said. It is hard to know until you run it.
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Dont put the weight forward add the weight on the CG. Directly on it, it works good!Originally posted by LuckyDuc View PostYep. It is hard to get the forward weight on this hull. You could drill a small hole in the bottom of the sponson tips and add BBs and epoxy. Then seal the hole up.
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I may have to. I added 3.5 oz. in the front of the tub today and still enough. The other alternative is to move my servo way forward.
Originally posted by LuckyDuc View PostYep. It is hard to get the forward weight on this hull. You could drill a small hole in the bottom of the sponson tips and add BBs and epoxy. Then seal the hole up.Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
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My 2 cents is get the cells as far forward as possible. Anything less and the butt end will drag around the pond. My cells are now way up into the nose of the hull with the motor right behind them and it is the best running hydro I have ever owned. It will run wide open all the way around the pond and will turn like it is on rails at 60mph. My Whip was built a little heavy to withstand some abuse so it did run wet at first but once I figured out how to properly load a 1515 1Y on 4s it became a water rocket.Team Liquid Dash
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Whiplash 20 Lipo
Kit just arrived and build is starting. My basics are Neu 1515 1Y on 4s. What prop are you using to properly load the motor and where did you locate the 2s2p or 4s1p cells?Originally posted by Raydee View PostMy 2 cents is get the cells as far forward as possible. Anything less and the butt end will drag around the pond. My cells are now way up into the nose of the hull with the motor right behind them and it is the best running hydro I have ever owned. It will run wide open all the way around the pond and will turn like it is on rails at 60mph. My Whip was built a little heavy to withstand some abuse so it did run wet at first but once I figured out how to properly load a 1515 1Y on 4s it became a water rocket.
Thanks for the info:
jesflorida
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This is where my cells are, and the motor is right behind them.Attached FilesLast edited by Raydee; 12-19-2009, 07:38 AM.Team Liquid Dash
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