New Cat build

[Eyekandyboats]

Yep, but it also depends on the compression of the tunnel which would be the hight of the tunnel as well. even if you ran the deck level with the forks of the hull like like the gieco and just increase the hight of the tunnel then it would eliminate that issue.
but other then that it looks kinda cool.... the cowl is a nice touch compared to the old 33 scat cat

I belive that the higher, stright entrance that the Gieco boat has will cause more blow over. I am not trying to copy exactly the Gieco boat just take some styling cues from it. I am not all that happy with the side profile yet it needs a little more work. But that is the point of the inexpensive ABS pulls to see what I like and do not. I will not be able to work on the mold for a few days any way with the Damond boat in hear.

[RandyatBBY]

Yep, but it also depends on the compression of the tunnel which would be the hight of the tunnel as well. even if you ran the deck level with the forks of the hull like like the gieco and just increase the hight of the tunnel then it would eliminate that issue.
but other then that it looks kinda cool.... the cowl is a nice touch compared to the old 33 scat cat

There needs to be enough room for a 1527 and water cooling it is a thight fit at this point. The Old SC32 is a tried and true bottom and tunnel entrance. I have been real tired of the hatch on the SC32. This is a functional change with a lot of styling change.

[RandyatBBY]

I have spent the weekend working on my sons car and doing a yard sale with the wife. no real time to work in the shop. this morning I was building new sponson molds for the oval boat. I have decited that I am going to build the mold to be a butjoin but with a lip comming up from the bottom to make it allso a shoe box to get the best of both worlds.

[Eyekandyboats]

haha you said butt joint!......
sounds like you got it all planed out there, besure to post pishers!
i persoanyl like the style you have going there.

[RandyatBBY]

You bet Eyekandyboats I will post the pictures as they come. So you like the shoe box... I have been looking at the HRP CC and love the look. and want to put more of the cues in to the SC33 I am a function over form guy but I do like to use scale whare I can.

I just got news that the big boat project in my shop is going electrics. It was going to be gas boat but, Damon chnaged his mind. I am reall happy at this change. I all perposed to teach Damon how to run electrics. He will be learning with my fleet.

[rockwerks]

Randy this hull looks like a winner, brushless cats in this size range dont need stepped hulls the down turned nose onthe tunnel should help plant it and the ridge on the center line of the tunnel should compress air to the sponsons giving better stable lift. SO as soon as you have one ready Im in the market!

I was actually changing an old BJ26 hull bottom to nearly what you have done here

[RandyatBBY]

Excellent; Randy! Will the SC33 be available in FG or CF layup?? Could you please post pic's of the transom. Would like to have a better view, in trying to decide the drive h/w for this bad boy! Have you had any thought of hardware for the SC33? Would like to hear your thoughts! Thanks Randy.

I will be building stainless steel strut with a dual bal bearing (ceramic on request) I will be also building 7075 rudders on request with a high speed pivit built in, Water cooled and non water cooled (for J tube pick up) the bracket for the assembly will be my sheet metal setup. The motor mounts will be my sheet metal untill I come out with my new CNC laser cut MM.




For rockwerks my bronco in Moab this spring.

[RandyatBBY]

is that a CT the big cat Randy?

and is the little one the SC ?

I found out it is a CC

[j.m.]

Cool hardware! How are you tappering the tube on the bottom of the strus like that? Is it machined?

And how do you join the bottom tube and top strip? Looks like they are soldered... I was reading about how to solder SS, and apparently silver solder can form a VERY strong joint with SS.

[befu]

Stainless.

Nice looking cat! The shoebox is a plus or minus thing. Appearance wise, people do not want it opting for the but joint. performance wise I agree with you the shoebox is stronger. Butt joint you have to join together with a layer of glue or resin. Hard to get up into the nose and make sure it is sealing. With a shoebox you can keep it light and bond them together where the material overlaps, giving a great seal and bearing surface. It is a tradeoff.

On the one side view of your cat, The increase in deadrise and the shoe box line makes it look like your sponson freeboard disappears about were the tunnel starts. I like the looks of it, but that is one area my eyes were drawn to. Only an optical thing. I bet once painted or some decals would tie the top and bottom together. I also like the angled ride pad. Does that help to keep the nose from bouncing so much in non-calm water?

Stainless Solder:
Stainless actually solders very nicely once you have the correct supplies. I have had very good luck soldering stainless with Silver solder and a flux specifically for silver solder on stainless. Might be newer and better stuff out there than what I have, but if you have the correct items you can really get it to stick together.

The last flux I purchased was from McMaster item # 7695a1 and I have had good results with this. I think I am using 2% - 4% silver solder, pricey stuff.

And how do you join the bottom tube and top strip? Looks like they are soldered... I was reading about how to solder SS, and apparently silver solder can form a VERY strong joint with SS.

[rockwerks]

Dry wheelin is what I miss about the South West

Moab the most. I left my rig in AZ when I left. The nearest good wheeling to me now is 300 miles away. Thanks for the pic!

[RandyatBBY]

Cool hardware! How are you tappering the tube on the bottom of the strus like that? Is it machined?

And how do you join the bottom tube and top strip? Looks like they are soldered... I was reading about how to solder SS, and apparently silver solder can form a VERY strong joint with SS.

I have been building this hardware since 1991, I am a thirty year master Jeweler so silver solder came natural to me. Yes it is quite strong, A correctly soldered strut will not break even at 80 to 100 MPH flip.
I have hand screw lathe and mills that my son has works on for over 11 years, I taught him as a teenager.

[RandyatBBY]

Moab the most. I left my rig in AZ when I left. The nearest good wheeling to me now is 300 miles away. Thanks for the pic!

I thought you might like it, I remember you over at RCcrawler, now that RC crawling is so commercial it lost my interest a little.

[rockwerks]

I thought you might like it, I remember you over at RCcrawler, now that RC crawling is so commercial it lost my interest a little.

Yep me too. I just have a custom super now

[RandyatBBY]

New Hatch mold built. On to the deck opening and scoops