Carbon fiber for inlays, recommendations?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Greenhorn7
    replied
    The cheapest carbon fiber I have found is on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/FT-12-CARBON-...54833352&psc=1

    Also, if anybody's looking for a tutorial, check out Big B's from Ironclad RC:




    Hope this helps! Much love OSE family!

    Leave a comment:


  • R2315
    replied
    Originally posted by NativePaul View Post
    Strictly speaking, no 160g just means the clothes weighs 160g per square meter. But in practice most cloth under 100g is 1k (fibres per thread) most between 100-300 will be 3k, and most 300+ will be 12k. Obviously the more fibres per thread the bigger the weave.
    Thanks Paul!

    Leave a comment:


  • NativePaul
    replied
    Yet as you can see, this thread is still getting views, this site has a search function and evidentially I am not the only one that uses it. Its an answer to a unanswered question pertinent to the topic of the forum, strictly speaking I don't care whether it is useful to the OP or someone searching for the answer in 10 years time, if it is ever useful to anyone, my time wasn't wasted.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fluid
    replied
    Strictly speaking, this thread is over four years old and the OP hasn’t been back to the forum in over a year. He won’t see your posts - but then I’m pretty sure he has it figured out by now anyway.





    .

    Leave a comment:


  • NativePaul
    replied
    Strictly speaking, no 160g just means the clothes weighs 160g per square meter. But in practice most cloth under 100g is 1k (fibres per thread) most between 100-300 will be 3k, and most 300+ will be 12k. Obviously the more fibres per thread the bigger the weave.

    Leave a comment:


  • R2315
    replied
    Originally posted by fweasel View Post
    I buy 2x2 3K carbon twill cloth from this supplier on eBay. They offer a number of different width and length rolls, depending on your project size. I create templates of the inlay using butcher paper and use masking tape to line the edges of my cutouts to keep the edges from fraying, installed tape side down in the hull. I spray the bottom side with 3M Super 77 adhesive spray before I put it in the hull. I apply my epoxy with foam paint brushes and then force it through the weave and mop up the excess with a cheap 2-3" foam paint roller.

    My advice is to start with smaller pieces and keep your templates simple. Larger pieces, with complex patterns aren't that big of a deal, but it takes practice to keep the process organized, neat, and clean and you've only go so much time to work with your mixed epoxy before it starts to set. The first couple of times can be clumsy, smaller pieces require less skill.
    Thanks fweasel! Great stuff, I’m definitely going to do some test runs to get my feet wet first... much appreciated

    Leave a comment:


  • fweasel
    replied
    I buy 2x2 3K carbon twill cloth from this supplier on eBay. They offer a number of different width and length rolls, depending on your project size. I create templates of the inlay using butcher paper and use masking tape to line the edges of my cutouts to keep the edges from fraying, installed tape side down in the hull. I spray the bottom side with 3M Super 77 adhesive spray before I put it in the hull. I apply my epoxy with foam paint brushes and then force it through the weave and mop up the excess with a cheap 2-3" foam paint roller.

    My advice is to start with smaller pieces and keep your templates simple. Larger pieces, with complex patterns aren't that big of a deal, but it takes practice to keep the process organized, neat, and clean and you've only go so much time to work with your mixed epoxy before it starts to set. The first couple of times can be clumsy, smaller pieces require less skill.

    Leave a comment:


  • R2315
    replied
    Perfect, thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • dethow
    replied
    Here's a couple links that will get you going.



    Leave a comment:


  • R2315
    replied
    I've also read that some tape it first where they want to cut then cut it with the tape on and then epoxy it in leaving the tape on the backside to keep it from fraying, Is that accurate? Any chance of the tape causing issues later? I guess once it’s epoxied in its not going anywhere.

    I've found a bunch of places selling this stuff, so many options... twill, plain, satin, spread tow, unidirectional ect... who have you guys had good dealings with? Just need a roll of something good quality with a nice weave.
    Last edited by R2315; 04-16-2018, 07:02 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • R2315
    replied
    Originally posted by grsboats View Post
    I have to agree that for aesthetic carbon fiber is nice but a well haind laid up fiberglass can do the job too.I use the 160g c.f to make most of my saw riggers and it can be used in your case as well.Take care with kevlar as it is a pain in the heck to cut it if your not familiar with this product.....I have a pair ofceramic scissors to cut it but there are other ways to do this task Gill.
    The 160g, does that also dictate how tight the weave is?

    Leave a comment:


  • R2315
    replied
    Originally posted by Fluid View Post
    Fiberglass will never have the stiffness of a good carbon fiber inlay. I use carbon inlays where I believe I need a stiffer bottom, not for aesthetics. Most folks use too much epoxy on their inlay, it will be stronger with a minimum of epoxy.

    Heres how how I do it, either glass or carbon. I paint the surface with a good coat of finishing/laminating epoxy, lay on the cloth, soak that with more epoxy (use a paint brush) then I use a metal roller to push the cloth firmly onto the hull surface. Then I use paper towels to mop up excess epoxy. The cloth grain should show strongly after this step. After it dries I may put on an additional coat of epoxy if I want a slick, shiny surface. This results in the strongest, stiffest inlay.


    .
    Thanks Fluid, really helpful! I’ll definitely try out your technique.
    Last edited by R2315; 04-16-2018, 07:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Fluid
    replied
    Fiberglass will never have the stiffness of a good carbon fiber inlay. I use carbon inlays where I believe I need a stiffer bottom, not for aesthetics. Most folks use too much epoxy on their inlay, it will be stronger with a minimum of epoxy.

    Heres how how I do it, either glass or carbon. I paint the surface with a good coat of finishing/laminating epoxy, lay on the cloth, soak that with more epoxy (use a paint brush) then I use a metal roller to push the cloth firmly onto the hull surface. Then I use paper towels to mop up excess epoxy. The cloth grain should show strongly after this step. After it dries I may put on an additional coat of epoxy if I want a slick, shiny surface. This results in the strongest, stiffest inlay.


    .

    Leave a comment:


  • grsboats
    replied
    I have to agree that for aesthetic carbon fiber is nice but a well haind laid up fiberglass can do the job too.I use the 160g c.f to make most of my saw riggers and it can be used in your case as well.Take care with kevlar as it is a pain in the heck to cut it if your not familiar with this product.....I have a pair ofceramic scissors to cut it but there are other ways to do this task Gill.

    Leave a comment:


  • rol243
    replied
    I,ve never used carbon or kevlar , only fibreglass with either epoxy or resin. 2 ounce weight is good. carbon fibre cloth certainly looks the part when used as an in hull inlay as is no doubt better than fibreglass cloth , its just the cost difference that keeps me away.

    Leave a comment:

Working...