Ok thanks
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Vs1 tunnel
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The bulkhead fittings and water exits are from right here at the Offshore store.
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Hey bud where duf you get your water line fittings that you used on the tunnelOriginally posted by pescador View Post
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I don't do anything to seal batteries, let um get wet. I use to, but not any more, on my Dumas Sprint despite my efforts to seal the electronics the first time I flipped the boat the compartments flooded, I dried it up no ill effects every thing worked fine minuets later. Second time I flipped it my sealing job only worked a little better but still took on h2o, dried it up no ill effects back on the water in minuets. I gave up trying to seal all my water proof gear. That boat has been upside down half a dozen time so far no ill effects on the un protected gear. Funny but when my Sprint is upside down it floats low enough that the prop is still in contact with the water, I can drive it back to shore upside down with all electronics totally flooded, under water lol. I know eventually I'll have to replace A water damaged part, till that happens don't care. Haven't flipped the new VS1 yet but I'll try.
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Originally posted by teamgear1973 View PostHey what did you use to enclose where the battery goes?
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3/32" Birch plywood [Midwest brand] from LHS. Rather than piece together the sides I just made a template for a once-piece side cover. (notch in back 'cause transom inset, hole is to hang it up )
template rotated.jpgLast edited by properchopper; 07-08-2017, 03:05 PM.
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On mine I made cardboard templates to figure out the sides then cut them out of hobby plywood. Then some pieces of basswood to reinforce the corners and make a lip for the lid. You can just copy the way the original servo box is constructed.
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Hey what did you use to enclose where the battery goes?Originally posted by teamgear1973 View PostThanks for sharing. Hope to start mine soon
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Whoop whoop my VS1 should be here next week..
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Those are some nice builds guys. Thanks for sharing the build photos
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Two of the builds: (same cowl)
VSsideview.jpg VSscfe.jpg
Best to avoid "death buoys" ; can cause slight disassembly
VStip.jpgLast edited by properchopper; 06-28-2017, 02:18 PM.
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I built several tunnels. The VS-1 was a fun build. (pictures from different builds)
just a few details:
I enclosed the whole interior
VS1plexi.jpg
Most builders locate the servo up front using cables to steer. I preferred rear-mounted servo with 4-40 rods
VSrearservo.jpg
Pass - through "tube farm" for 3 motor wires, two servo rods plus 2 cooling lines. I inset the motor mount to shorten the pivot length for crisper handling (not necessarily worth the effort)
VStubefarm.jpg VSrubber2.jpg
continued
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guys, there used to be a good upgrade for the K & B outboard leg that many guys did . what you do is if your leg is fitted with a teflon shaft tube only you get rid of it and bend to shape the same length of brass tubing to use as the main shaft log. this eliminates any drag caused by the teflon / bend thus lets the motor run alot freer. also if your running the pull pull steering set up use fishing wire stainless trace, never breaks.
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Thanks for sharing. Hope to start mine soonOriginally posted by JestDanny View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]152255[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]152256[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]152257[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]152258[/ATTACH]
I an going to run 3S buy a 4S will fit in my battery tray.
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SAM_2764.jpgSAM_2765.jpgSAM_2768.jpgSAM_2769.jpg
I an going to run 3S buy a 4S will fit in my battery tray.
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I used new cables and a belcrank arm but you could use the wheel and cables from the kit I think. I can't remember if the stock steering cables came with the plastic cover like the yellow throttle cable but the way the cables come thru the battery box I used the same plastic cover so the cables wouldn't rub the batteries. They are Dubro I think, easy to find at the hobby shop with the airplane stuff.
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