Bonding fiberglass inlay to Spartan plastic hatch??

[lt130th]

Thanks for the tips, gentlemen. I've picked up a sheet of clear acrylic for a foam-sealed sub-hatch, but I will be reinforcing the transom with 2mm carbon fiber plate in areas where I had to remove the original screw sockets and webbing for the speedmaster rudder...so I will look into these products you mentioned and get some ordered for that.

Thanks, again.
Michael P.

[Wintech]

I am using the 105 resin and 205 hardner from West Systems. No problems at all.

[Fella1340]

I looked up epoxy for abs repair and west systems gflex has a good resource area for using there product on abs. They have done much in the way of testing to prove it's Ok use. Reading up on there recommendations will be of help for a nicer job. Other west systems products look to be compatible as well. Most 5 minute and 30 minute off the shelf epoxies didn't recommend use with abs and other plastics including acrylic. It was good to find out that gflex will work though. I have an abs boat that needs work as well.

[Fella1340]

I hope the op does his homework before diving into anything. Better to be safe than regrets later.Good luck on the build!

[Wintech]

I have uesed the West System to glass in mat on the floor and transom of a Traxxas Nitro Vee. No problems and I have given it a pounding in some big chop. Scuff the ABS and wipe with denatured alcohol.

[urbs00007]

It's not the sticking part that's a problem with some of the epoxies, it's what it does to the plastic. Make sure the epoxy is plastic compatible that's all.

epoxy will not work. if the hatch is made from abs plastic, purchase a piece from tower hobbies and glue it to hatch using acetone or mek. will not loosen, becomes part of hatch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MW9nbYBlsEI&feature=kp

[Fella1340]

It's not the sticking part that's a problem with some of the epoxies, it's what it does to the plastic. Make sure the epoxy is plastic compatible that's all.

[kfxguy]

To stick plastics including ABS use Devcon Plastic Weld, this is just about the best glue specifically for plastics. Also works on fibreglass being a plastic as well as woods & metals.

Finding an epoxy that sticks to it isn't the problem. It's finding a clear Epoxy to do a reinforcement inlay. If he needed to just attach something in the hull, jb weld would be my first choice. That some strong junk.

[martin]

To stick plastics including ABS use Devcon Plastic Weld, this is just about the best glue specifically for plastics. Also works on fibreglass being a plastic as well as woods & metals.

[lt130th]

Plastics and some epoxies do not work well together...

Good tip. I hadn't thought about that.

No such thing as too air tight. Once you figure out how to make it sealed lmk!!!!!

When I'm finished rearranging the hardware on the transom and installing proper fittings (like through-transom water tubing barbs instead of tubing just pushed through a hole) I'll leak test the hull in the tub and make notes. I'm planning to have the whole hull vinyl wrapped so I'll silicone the noted leaks and re-test in the tub after reinstalling all the hardware and water outlets. Jeff Wohlt told me how to seal the stuffing tube when running his wire drive. I think it will be all sealed up after that, except for this hatch. I'm leaning more and more towards the lexan sub-hatch. If it's successfull, I may employ something similar on the Shocker hull I'm starting. But I'll also have to seal that hole in the Spartan where the hatch secures in the front... I don't know why all marine ESC's are not 100% waterproof. From what I've read the best way to waterproof your electronics is to simply keep the interior of the hull dry in the first place, so that's my goal.

I'll actually never even run this boat. I'm only finishing the build I started and will be putting it up for sale, minus ESC and receiver, as a new, ARTR Spartan built for real 60+ mph speeds. I only want to make sure whoever buys it gets the Spartan I would want.

[PowerDemon]

The first thing you should do with your hatch if you want it water tight is seal off the vents in the back. Many people have tried many different methods but when I need water to stay out (only when I run in salt) I just use electrical tape. Other people have cut the vents off and sealed them and other people just don't care myself included. If you want to glue anything to the underside of the hatch to make it stiffer I would suggest something along the lines of JB Weld. I second kfxguy that you should rough up the surface as much as possible.Also the Spartan does not need any additional cooling other than water. I just deal with it and when I bring it back to check the temps I just dump it out Good luck and hope this helps.

[Fella1340]

Plastics and some epoxies do not work well together. I would check any epoxy you do use against the type of plastic the hull is made of. I do like the lean cover, fasteners and foam idea better though.

[shartinspartin]

I'm knocking around the idea of a piece of 1/8" lexan cut to the shape of the hatch opening, securing it with some type of threaded fasteners and lining foam tape around the edge to compress between mating surfaces. Then the flimsy plastic hatch can go on for looks since that's all its good for. That would probably be less work and hold more promise for a tight water seal. My only question then would be, do I need the interior of the hull to breath a little to release heat? Is there such a thing as too much air-tight?

No such thing as too air tight. Once you figure out how to make it sealed lmk!!!!!

[lt130th]

I'm knocking around the idea of a piece of 1/8" lexan cut to the shape of the hatch opening, securing it with some type of threaded fasteners and lining foam tape around the edge to compress between mating surfaces. Then the flimsy plastic hatch can go on for looks since that's all its good for. That would probably be less work and hold more promise for a tight water seal. My only question then would be, do I need the interior of the hull to breath a little to release heat? Is there such a thing as too much air-tight?

[kfxguy]

Hmmm. I'm not sure if anything would stick to it with great strength but you'd have a better fighting chance with roughing it up a good bit. I haven't tried doing any kind of inlay in a plastic hull myself. I wouldn't be scared to tho, I would use max clr epoxy on it and after it cured I'd see if i could flex it and break it out. I'd imagine it would stay as its some strong stuff. Maybe someone else has tried reinforcing a plastic hull.....